What exactly is your car doing? Not going into gear whatsoever? Grinding before going into gear? Be specific as to what is going on and maybe I can provide some better advice.

if you ain't hearing some strange noise out of your tranny,your tb should be fine. and give us more details of the problem you are having

It'll also help if you could tell us if you have a genuine oem Mitsubishi slave/master cylinder. I've had nightmares in the past with the drivetrain in general when it comes to using Autozone/Advance Autoparts/Fleabay style parts. Always use Mitsubishi oem parts, best advice I can give you.

It might be the same issue im having now. the other day i pulled into my spot and went to adjust the car and it wouldn't go into gear. i was thinking clutch? no there was no slipping the i push the clutch and it falls to the floor wth Im thinking its gotta be the master what do you guys think?

Might be a master.... I believe my master is good and bled correctly because I removed the new master installed on my 91 that I never got to use... it worked on the 91 I believe.... Never got to use it because a spring was broken on the clutch plate....... I am in the process of removing the transmission and installing a fidanza flywheel and a 6 puck unsprung xtd clutch.. I removed the master and slave assembly as a full assembly complete with lines because it took me so long to get it bled in the first place... Whatever you do if u remove the old master cylinder DO NOT remove the clevis pin on the pedal you will hate yourself if you do.. trust me..... Anyways, my problem is I can't put it in gear unless I install the stupid bolt he shoved in the slave cylinder..... With the front on jackstands if I start the car and put it in gear and it doesn't die it moves the tires (the drivers tire spins a little more... maybe a bad brake... The car when driving on the ground will not die in 1st or 2nd when you leave it to die... My 91 had pretty much the same problem.. I just wasn't "smart enough" to adjust the master cylinder rod all the way out and install a large bolt into the slave (which makes it a pain in the ass to remount the slave) and sale my 91 because I intended to fix it but had terrible troubles with stupid stuff.... If a spring on the clutch disk is bad it won't be noisy just impossible to put in gear.. Unless you do the adjustments which is not recommended because it will over heat the fluid and ruin the master because it can't self adjust.. Along with destroying the transmission.. By the way I bought my master and slave from O'reileys and yes the master is a pain in the arse but never had a problem with the slave from there.. Mitsubishi wants $188 for the stock master. Should try the Chrysler dealership sometimes parts are cheaper...

crazycooter said:

Might be a master.... I believe my master is good and bled correctly because I removed the new master installed on my 91 that I never got to use... it worked on the 91 I believe.... Never got to use it because a spring was broken on the clutch plate....... I am in the process of removing the transmission and installing a fidanza flywheel and a 6 puck unsprung xtd clutch.. I removed the master and slave assembly as a full assembly complete with lines because it took me so long to get it bled in the first place... Whatever you do if u remove the old master cylinder DO NOT remove the clevis pin on the pedal you will hate yourself if you do.. trust me..... Anyways, my problem is I can't put it in gear unless I install the stupid bolt he shoved in the slave cylinder..... With the front on jackstands if I start the car and put it in gear and it doesn't die it moves the tires (the drivers tire spins a little more... maybe a bad brake... The car when driving on the ground will not die in 1st or 2nd when you leave it to die... My 91 had pretty much the same problem.. I just wasn't "smart enough" to adjust the master cylinder rod all the way out and install a large bolt into the slave (which makes it a pain in the ass to remount the slave) and sale my 91 because I intended to fix it but had terrible troubles with stupid stuff.... If a spring on the clutch disk is bad it won't be noisy just impossible to put in gear.. Unless you do the adjustments which is not recommended because it will over heat the fluid and ruin the master because it can't self adjust.. Along with destroying the transmission..

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when you will start do you clutch work Make Sure[/COLOR that you will use Oem parts. You will deff need to replace

Pivot ball
clutch fork
Oem Throw out bearing
Oem Master and slave cylinder
SS line from master to slave (one peace)
Before you will put tranny back Don't forget to grease the shaft where the TB slides on and you could greas Throw out bearing itself

If its you dd car,i woundn't recommend going with an unsprung clutch disk and Fidanza flywheel. Unsprung clutch disks takes a lot of abuse on your drivetrain. Fidanza flywheel would lead you to a stall problems. lets say if you rev the engine to the higher rpms,and then when rpms will be going down,it will srop to zero and your car will stall. I would recommend getting the Act stuff. New 2100 prssure plate, street clutch disk, act flywheel instead fidanza one. After youll be done with everything, youll be happy without having any problems with your clutch things anymore.......

I already have the flywheel on my 91 and didn't have 2 many problems with it except the whine while decelerating... I also already have the clutch because it was purchased for the 91... Lets face it everyone knows its best to break a rebuilt engine with an unsprung clutch, a 9 lb flywheel, and a 20g chinabay turbo all in together in the dead of winter with slick roads in a fwd... I have an extra transmission (shaft stuck in tranny right now but, rebuilt under 30,000 miles ago)and the driveaxles have a lifetime warranty so its getting it. Wonder if it would "help if I installed my zex wet N2O kit to break it all in... I haven't had any stall issues with the fidanza unless I drop the clutch in 2nd gear to take off then the shift between 2nd and 3rd will drop rpm an awful lot and stall but that's what N2O is for,,

Try this http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ck-up-disengage-after-new-clutch-install.html