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2G 2.0 vs 2.4L

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asimmons04

Probationary Member
10
0
Jan 3, 2011
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
Why does a N/A 2.0 liter and a N/A Spyder 2.4L of the same year have almost the same exact amount of hp?

And what kind of power can I expect by raising the compression on the engine (thinner head gasket maybe, or decking head) and getting it ported, bigger valves, etc.

I am torn between a very mild turbo setup or going all engine. I am new to DSM, but NOT new to engine work as I took auto MACHINIST classes in college. I made a 97 in class doing three angle valve jobs by sight and no ruler, I understand the concepts of intake/exhaust, compression, boost, vacuum, etc. I just dont know THIS car as well, YET.

My car is a 97 Spyder 2.4 and is all stock, and only has 104k original miles. Never been torn apart or needed repair. All belts are new, timing belts, all of it. I am not afraid of a little boost just to add a bit of umph to it, but the idea of going all motor sounds kinda fun too. Seems like if it was bigger displacement it woulda had more than like 2hp over the 2.0. WHY is this? What can be swapped or removed to get the most out of the bigger engine, then go from THERE forward? Is it some kind of egr valve/emissions/epa crap or what? And removing the convertors off my 98 Mustang helped me achieve a smooth 30.6mpg on a 4 hour trip, with no issues with idling/tuning. Will that hurt me in this car? We dont do tests here. Nobody cares as long as it has an exhaust and is not obnoxiously loud.
 
well the 2.4 is sohc and the 2.o is dohc. if you are wanting more power and higher compression get a 4g61 or 4g67 dohc head. that would give you about a .5 bump in compression
 
You actually have a very potent power plant just waiting for a turbo build. You could have a DOHC 4g64 in your car now. If not, you'll want the DOHC head. With the right fuel system and tuning you can run a turbo setup on that motor. Personally, I'd tear into it, change the pistons and rods, head studs, valve springs, cams, turbo, fuel, tuning, fmic, exhaust, etc... That's just me. Do you have any certain goal or use for the car?
 
If you want to go all motor go for it, but it'd be far easier to drop a 4G63T head onto your block and run boosted.

Removing your EGR system almost always hurts your fuel economy. You'll want to pick up a manual for your car if you're serious about it.
 
+1 for preparing for a turbo.
+1 for adding the DOHC
There are those all motor guys out there but the spend A LOT of money for not that much HP gain... You can even ask them, they wont hide it. Those guys are out there to prove what can be done with all motor and they have some wicked aggresive cams that make the car run rough ruining its DD ability. If you want a fun car, turbo it and build it right (no ebay kits).
 
ive got a 2.4l built engine in my car that is running 21psi daily on an evo 3 16g and i love it! Super low spool, alot of low end torque. This in my opinion is the way to go
 
well i am having boost leak issues right now but before that i was seeing 18psi by probably 3000rpms or so. In fourth and fifth gear it was much lower down like 2500 or so.
 
The 4g64 SOHC has a low overlap camshaft which promotes low end torque, complimenting the increased crank throw over the 2.0 motors. The 2.4 also sport silent shafts like the 4g63, which can sap a wee bit of power. The longer stroke of the 2.4 inherently comes with a reduced rev limit, and with less RPM comes less HP.

The 420a is a DOHC, 7250 rpm motor with more valve overlap, a well designed head, no silent shafts, and the overall design is about a decade newer.


The 4g64 is a great candidate for the DOHC head and turbo setup from the factory turbocars - as was mentioned already. While is it nice to go against the grain sometimes, you'll be doing it largely by yourself if you were to build a N/A 2.4 monster. The community here will be able to assist you with theory and build strategies, but very few have actual experience with building a N/A 2.4, due to how inexpensive and effective it is to just boost it.



The Spyder weighs a lot more, and requires a motor with more torque to have it feel and perform similarly to it's 420a equipped N/A brother.
 
you dont feel the rpms, it feels more like an all motor car, as soon as you step on it it gets going, maybe a slight second to spool the turbo, this in my opinion is the best street/dd setup someone can get
 
Get a dual cam head with aftermarket cams then build the bottom end and all other supporting mods and boost it.....Watch some vids on youtube of them they are amazing!!!
 
Would it not be super easy for the OP to put on a dohc head, with stock 2g turbo, wire in a knock sensor, injector resistor pack, and whatever else is needed and plug in a turbo 2g ecu?
 
Sounds like good advice from everyone, thanks guys. I'm looking to still have a good daily driver but with just a little more punch during my crazy moments you know? Its my only car so it has to not only last but be a tame daily driver. Aside from my only vehicle problem, I really didnt see tearing down the engine just yet because its so fresh with fairly low miles. I know this sounds stupid but I was thinking maybe 5-8psi max? I'm not sure but anyways about another question, I think it is a DOHC, I normally could tell you but you asked and I dont want you to get me lying LOL. I will go out and look in a few. I mean the car is already a hell of a drive, it will do one badass burnout (new tires so theyre sticky though) but around 3rd, 4th gear it needs some umph sometimes LOL.

I also have another question. Before I got the car (two months or so ago?) it had never been ran hard or more than 15 miles at a time. I have done all of maybe 6 burnouts. I've been driving a 5 speed since i was 16, and put over 30k miles on my mustang ending at 150k with the original clutch still not slipping.
OK that being said, I did NOT burn the clutch up, nor did the previous owner. Now sometimes my clutch sticks like glue for a day or 3 days or whatever. Once in a while I get in and it slips and just gets worse like there is oil on the disk or something, I mean to the point of being in 5th gear going down the highway and pushing the gas and it slipping. WTH? I do know my motor mount is loose or something and it bumps when I shift a little, but I dont see that affecting the clutchwork since its bolted TO the engine via Tranny. They wobble together right LOL. ANYWAY it pisses me off when it does this because it always picks the most opportune times to do this like when Im in traffic or someone wants to play. Driving to work or some random crap it doesnt do it. Also noticed its during hot days most the time (70*), if its COLD outside it doesnt seem to usually. Idk because its random times and its hard to keep up with.

OK the engine is stock so it has to be a SOHC engine. Will a 2.0 DOHC head fit, one from a N/A car? Would there be any benefit? I know this sounds stupid but I know on some cars heads will swap and you'll either gain compression or larger valves, etc. The reason I ask is that I can do a head swap or get a head done for little to nothing and swap it myself over the weekend and not be out a car. :/

Maybe this summer I will have another bike and can do more. :D
 
OK the engine is stock so it has to be a SOHC engine. Will a 2.0 DOHC head fit, one from a N/A car? Would there be any benefit? I know this sounds stupid but I know on some cars heads will swap and you'll either gain compression or larger valves, etc. The reason I ask is that I can do a head swap or get a head done for little to nothing and swap it myself over the weekend and not be out a car. :/

Maybe this summer I will have another bike and can do more. :D

The DOHC N/T heads from a 2g are totally different.

When you switch to a DOHC you pretty much need a doner bottom end to swap the front case and all attachments as everything is different when you switch the path of the belt.

What I would do, is look for a rod knocking/crankwalk turbo 7bolt that is complete.
Pull the head, get it checked.
pull off all the stuff on the bottom end/timing side.
Then switch it all over to your 2.4 block.
I also think there is some oil or coolant ports that need to be blocked on the block when you switch heads.

This swap gets quite involved and you tear the motor down pretty far. I would give yourself more than a weekend to get it done, especailly if you have not done something like this before.


and your clutch issus.... sounds 99% like a slipping clutch
There could be oil like you said on the disk from a leaking rear main seal, or its just toast.
 
I have a GSX turbo setup on its way. We are bleeding the air out of my clutch line here in a few (at my house, myself) and replacing with fresh DOT 4. I have the motor mount on the way as well. Im almost certain air was the problem the way its only on some occasions and seems to have a relation to outside air temp and how long I drive the car around. Last night it was 27* and I rode through traffic for over an hour and it never acted up. On a hot day under light conditions it will start up after a while...

:D we will see how this goes...
 
The thing about all motor cars having less HP than turbos is that those N/A cars that are built have that power right away, with turbos you have spool time and turbo lag. How much HP you think a typically built 4G63 has with it's low compression and not in boost? Not a whole lot. Some 200HP all motors are beating turbos off the line.

So to OP you have two ways to go about it for a badass motor. Or get the best of both worlds and get 10:1 compression with turbo and tune it. Just my .02
 
Us I dynod but had terrible phantom knock. My knock sensor was not threaded at all so it was picking up knock like crazy. I was only doing 16 psi at the tune and made 279 whp and 334 awtq

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G
 
The 4g64 SOHC has a low overlap camshaft which promotes low end torque, complimenting the increased crank throw over the 2.0 motors. The 2.4 also sport silent shafts like the 4g63, which can sap a wee bit of power. The longer stroke of the 2.4 inherently comes with a reduced rev limit, and with less RPM comes less HP.

The 420a is a DOHC, 7250 rpm motor with more valve overlap, a well designed head, no silent shafts, and the overall design is about a decade newer.


The 4g64 is a great candidate for the DOHC head and turbo setup from the factory turbocars - as was mentioned already. While is it nice to go against the grain sometimes, you'll be doing it largely by yourself if you were to build a N/A 2.4 monster. The community here will be able to assist you with theory and build strategies, but very few have actual experience with building a N/A 2.4, due to how inexpensive and effective it is to just boost it.



The Spyder weighs a lot more, and requires a motor with more torque to have it feel and perform similarly to it's 420a equipped N/A brother.
I need to know how to do dohc and turbo swap onto 99 4g64
 
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