headgasket

zulimee · Jan 12, 2011

what the best headgasket and sealant for running boost at 2bar. how to i can find 2g dsm eclipse 95 headgasket 87.5mm.

99gst_racer · Jan 18, 2011

zulimee said:
may i using mitsu composite gasket for high cylinder pressure if my bore 87.5mm

Sure. I couldn't tell you which part number to use for that bore though.

2slow4utsi said:
There are probably less than 10 people on this site that NEED L19s. What was everyone running before L19s were available?

While I agree that standard ARP's are very capable and just fine for most people, many more than 10 people benefit from running tool steel studs. Anybody pushing 65 lbs/min or more could benefit from having them.

Before they were available, people would either go through 8740 studs like it was motor oil - pushing coolant all the while, or they would drill the head and block out to run 1/2" studs.

Head studs are a bit like clutches. On a clutch, if you use a more aggressive friction material on the disc, you can get away with less pressure on the plate - or vice versa. If head stud diameter is sufficient, you can get away with using a cheaper, weaker material like 8740 chrome moly. But, Mitsu used a puny 11mm stud in the 7-bolt. In that diameter, the strength and capabilities of 8740 is very limited. Thus the reason many people (especially 7-bolt users) use H11/L19 tool steel studs.

XiKeiyaZI · Jan 18, 2011

Since we're on the subject, is it possible for a single or couple of stock head-bolts to stretch or possibly loosen over time and cause coolant to be leaked? And if so, could it simply be retorqued to be resolved or should the entire head be removed to address the issue? >> Nub question, nub forum

2slow4utsi · Jan 18, 2011

99gst_racer said:
Sure. I couldn't tell you which part number to use for that bore though.

While I agree that standard ARP's are very capable and just fine for most people, many more than 10 people benefit from running tool steel studs. Anybody pushing 65 lbs/min or more could benefit from having them.

Before they were available, people would either go through 8740 studs like it was motor oil - pushing coolant all the while, or they would drill the head and block out to run 1/2" studs.

Head studs are a bit like clutches. On a clutch, if you use a more aggressive friction material on the disc, you can get away with less pressure on the plate - or vice versa. If head stud diameter is sufficient, you can get away with using a cheaper, weaker material like 8740 chrome moly. But, Mitsu used a puny 11mm stud in the 7-bolt. In that diameter, the strength and capabilities of 8740 is very limited. Thus the reason many people (especially 7-bolt users) use H11/L19 tool steel studs.

In my research I don't even think your compound setup needs L19s.

99gst_racer · Jan 18, 2011

XiKeiyaZI said:
Since we're on the subject, is it possible for a single or couple of stock head-bolts to stretch or possibly loosen over time and cause coolant to be leaked? And if so, could it simply be retorqued to be resolved or should the entire head be removed to address the issue? >> Nub question, nub forum

If a bolt/stud stretches permanently to a freestanding length that is even .001" longer than when it was brand new, then it's garbage. Retorquing will only make it worse. Replacement is the only solution.

2slow4utsi said:
In my research I don't even think your compound setup needs L19s.

I heavily disagree, but would like to hear your explaination anyway.

XiKeiyaZI · Jan 18, 2011

99gst_racer said:
If a bolt/stud stretches permanently to a freestanding length that is even .001" longer than when it was brand new, then it's garbage. Retorquing will only make it worse. Replacement is the only solution.

Figured as much. Was just a thought that crossed my mind and felt it should at least be answered save someone else have the issue and were thinking about doing that.

Talipse96 · Jan 18, 2011

Along with the head gasket question. I had my block and head machined. I had my head re-built then just put a composit fel pro gasket on it. So now I'm ready to upgrade my head. What do I have to do to run an MLS gasket. I have already had the machining done but since I installed the composit gasket will it make an uneven surface or should cleaning it up be good enought?

XiKeiyaZI · Jan 18, 2011

Installing a comp gasket isn't going to mess up your head, but you should clean it THOROUGHLY and then check it for flatness with a mechanics' Edge.

Talipse96 · Jan 18, 2011

Thank you. I have searched and searched but never really found somebody to TELL me the answer. I figured I would hav to call up my machine shop and ask them what... Ra they used for the surface. I think i still plan on doing that just to be extra cautious. Thanks again.

90-GST · Jan 21, 2011

I've been told MLS gaskets are more prone to leaking than composite gaskets. Would this be because of the need of a perfectly even surface to seal with the MLS gasket, while the composite will, for lack of a better word, "give" a little bit? Or is there evidence of this being true?

Also, is it possible to reuse an MLS head gasket safely? I've had the head off about 3 times, and will be taking it off another soon, since I've put my MLS on there. I've had the block decked, and will be having the head decked this time. I assume that it would be fine, given that it is a metal gasket, but could there be a reason why I would need to replace it?

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