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Forward Facing Oil Filter Housing [Merged 10-8]

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Yes, I did. I had it hooked up backwards at first. The upper fitting is the feed and the lower fitting is the return. The car runs for the first time in 8 months as of yesterday~!
 
For those of you running the FFOFH, when you change your oil, do you have to remove the crossmember that runs front to back across that area of the engine? Or does the oil clear and allow you to drain it directly into a bucket? Or do you just let it get all over the cross member and wipe it up later?

Just curious before I order one...
 
For those of you running the FFOFH, when you change your oil, do you have to remove the crossmember that runs front to back across that area of the engine? Or does the oil clear and allow you to drain it directly into a bucket? Or do you just let it get all over the cross member and wipe it up later?

Just curious before I order one...

No need to drop the cross member, there is plenty of clearance.
 
No need to drop the cross member, there is plenty of clearance.

Just installed my FFOFH and the answer you gave to my questions is misleading based on what I asked.

So, I found out for myself first hand.

For those of you running the FFOFH, when you change your oil, do you have to remove the crossmember that runs front to back across that area of the engine? Or does the oil clear and allow you to drain it directly into a bucket? Or do you just let it get all over the cross member and wipe it up later?

Just curious before I order one...

Correct... You do not have to remove the crossmember, the oil filter can be removed just fine. "Plenty of clearance".

The thing I was asking was if the oil would clear the crossmember as it is drained from the filter. This does not look like the case as it will drain and drip all over the crossmember. So... you can either remove the crossmember to avoid this, use a funnel/drainage system to divert the oil away from the member, or just wipe it up later and make a huge mess in the process.
 
Using the forward facing housing where can you get a feed to the turbo?
 
My head is welded up. Is there anyway to retain sensors and have a ofh feed?
 
yes, the ffwd forward facing filter has fitting for sensors

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I just picked the FFWD piece up and have it ready to go in this weekend. I really didn't want to remove my timing belt cover (and waterpump pulley!!) just to do it, but I sucked it up and took care of it. I'll be deleting the oil cooling altogether and the water cooling for the 14B.

I'm bringing my waterpipe by a shop later this week to have the provision going to the OFH cut and welded shut. It already has the heater core provisions removed. I'll keep the port for the turbo in case I upgrade in the future.

Hopefully my little 14B will run fine without cooling, I'll just actually have to wait for my turbo timer now.
 
No it won't. You need either an Evo 3 or Evo 8/9 housing for a 7 bolt.

Just seen this thread was titled "Forward Facing Oil Filter Housing". I was searching, this thread came up, and overlooked the title.

Thanks for the info.

Had no idea a Evo 8/9 ofh would work.
 
is the oil feed the same threads as the standard oil filter housing? im guessing and hoping they are since its still mitsu but ffwd said there hard to get a t fitting? are they just trying to get you to pay twice as much then what extreme charges?
 
Forward Facing OEM Oil Filter Housing- 6 Bolt : JNZ Tuning

Note the "Bolt" aspect. There is a difference.

There isn't a large (3/8" BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread) -- not NPT (National Pipe Thread)) fitting in the forward fitting housing that you can thread the large adapter in that's sold with most SS oil line kits out there, however, you don't *NEED* to use that fitting--it's just to adapt to the 4AN fitting that the feed lines connect to.

You can simply use a 1/8" BSPT to 4AN adapter fitting off of the bottom pre-threaded port (we have them in stock if needed for this purpose).
(picture below highlights port)
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You *CAN* use a 1/8" NPT to 4AN adapter fitting, however it won't thread in nearly as deep before getting tight (usually around 3 turns).

Over-tightening with either adapter WILL crack the housing (it's cast aluminum) so don't kill the thing.

As for provisions to install your oil pressure sending unit if you feed off of this bottom port, you just need to drill and tap at the location below:

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If using the factory oil pressure sending unit (or "Gauge Unit") the thread is once again 1/8" BSPT.

If you really want to use BOTH the oil pressure sending unit, and the pressure switch (for the idiot light that pretty much just just lets you know "You've already toasted your engine") you would use a "T".

If you're to the point where you need this housing, my suggestion is tossing both the factory oil pressure sending unit (for the "Guess-ta-meter" oil gauge) and the idiot light switch for a decent *real* oil pressure gauge. At that point, you simply drill and tap the provision in the picture above for whatever thread you need for the gauge you purchase.

There's no magic involved in using these housings. ;)

Another picture for reference (apologies for the quality--just shot it a phone to expedite the process):

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The upper of the two fittings is the 3/8" to 4AN adapter supplied with most kits. The lower of the two fittings is a 1/8" BSPT to 4AN adapter for the forward facing housings.
 
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As somebody with experience with the Mighty Max FFOFH for my 7 bolt, I want to add a couple things:

- You can NOT thread in 1/8 NPT into the 1/8 BSPT hole on these housings. If you manage to, you will probably crack the housing just getting it tight enough to not leak.

- You CAN use a 1/8 NPT tap in the hole, go a 1/2 turn at a time and pull it back out. Be sure to clean it thoroughly before installing. This will allow you to use your 1/8 NPT to -4AN fittings or 1/8 NPT tee.

- If you have time to wait, I would recommend getting a 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT adapter, as it will probably be a little cheaper. The tap is an option for people who cannot wait. Your local Fastenal will have it, but it won't be cheap. The adapter is far cheaper.
 
i need that adapter so i can go to the shoot out

might just have to get out the hammer... not happy abought that
 
I just installed mine couple of weeks back. I bought it off of FFWD for a 6-bolt and everything went on perfectly. I've deleted my oil cooler provisions on my water-pipe, so it is a lot cleaner without those hoses running to the OFH.

It IS possible to start loosening the one bolt covered by the timing belt cover without completely removing the cover, but I would just take the extra 10 mins to get the waterpump pulley off to have access to the one bolt. I was debating on using "right stuff" RTV since I've had great luck using it on the thermostat housing to head surfaces, but I went with the OEM paper gasket. I just made sure to thoroughly wipe it clean of oil, then degrease it with brake cleaner (oh, and torqued to spec). I'll report back if I have any issues with leaking this weekend when I get to drive it again for the first time in about a month.

**EDIT**

Have some pics before install with the old 6-bolt OFH ('92 I believe?).

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The FFWD piece with the oil feed and idiot light fitting (somehow the connector came off the wire, so I didn't end up using it which is fine):

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Installed and torqued down:

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Not the best picture, but this is from the front of the car (of course, it's front-facing now!)

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So to get a more clear answer, is running a forward facing oil filter housing without an oil cooler ok to do on a daily driver? Is it really going to affect temps that much? I seen where someone mentioned 3 degrees difference.
 
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