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How to tell if you have a bad or fried ecu

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theslab

10+ Year Contributor
131
1
Sep 14, 2010
gurnee, Illinois
This i feel will help everyone on this forum. I got tired of everyone givng false info for a bad ecu like "Fix youre mpi relay" LOL. I've never heard of anyone in my life having a bad mpi relay.

Warning signs for Bad capacitors in ECU:

1. A rapid clicking or chattering from under the dash. Usually accompanied with
the engine stalling or losing power during the noise. This is the microcontroller
going into reset over and over and over again due to a bad power supply. Every
time it resets, it will turn the fuel pump relay on and off. This could also be
a bad fuel pump relay, but not usually.

2. An usual smell that seems to come from the center console. Especially if i
smells like rotten seafood. Consider that it could also be your heater fan motor,
unless accompanied with a power loss or stalling.

3. Your car is older than seven years and sees a lot of extreme temperature
transitions. If you experience either of the first two problems above, act
on them as soon as possible. Even though your car may still be drivable, the
longer you let the problem go the more likely you will end up with a hole
in your ECU's PC board or with several blown components on the board. Then you will have to dig an ecu up in the junkyard or buy a new one from Mitsubishi
for $1100.


Note to interpret dates (9806.1 used as example)
1st and 2nd (2) digits are year so this is 1998
3rd and 4th (2) digits are month so this is June (6th month)
5th digit is 1/3rd of month (I think) so 1 = 1st 10 days of month


Important information about buying a replacement or repaired ECU:

You do not have to install the exact same ECU part number in your car BUT you do have to install a new ECU
with the same E2T number!
Pull out the ECU and under the part number on the label there will be a number starting with E2T.
Those numbers on your original ECU have to match your new ECU.

How to tell if you have eprom http://www.technomotive.com/howto/ecu1g/checkeprom.htm

Best of Luck :hellyeah:
 
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I suspected that mine was bad when both fans would turn on as soon as the car started and it ran like it had the MAS unplugged. Of course I checked the ECT sensor to the ecu and the MAS connection to the ecu but the ecu was definitely the culprit.
 
I got a Motoguy's ECU in my ride for close to 2 yrs without any problems.

BUT, if you do any sensor work with the battery connected and short out the connector to the sensor by touching it to ground, it can blow a ground bus in the ECU.
 
i just got done installing my 16g big turbo on 15psi. drove it fine with no problems for a day. the next day i went to drive my car, but my car wont go over 3500 rpm. acting like a rev limiter. i am hearing a faint click sound under the headunit. idle is a little rough, but doesnt stall out. could this be my ecu in "safe" mode? plugs and wires ok. bov is recirculated and no boost leaks. no unusual smoke and no exhaust leaks. fuel is not cutting either. im stuck on this problem
 
i just got done installing my 16g big turbo on 15psi. drove it fine with no problems for a day. the next day i went to drive my car, but my car wont go over 3500 rpm. acting like a rev limiter. i am hearing a faint click sound under the headunit. idle is a little rough, but doesnt stall out. could this be my ecu in "safe" mode? plugs and wires ok. bov is recirculated and no boost leaks. no unusual smoke and no exhaust leaks. fuel is not cutting either. im stuck on this problem
I’m know this is a 6 year old thread but worth a shot.. did you get that figured out?
 
I’m know this is a 6 year old thread but worth a shot.. did you get that figured out?

The ECU doesn't have a "safe mode." The repeated click sounds like a bad ECU, but his 3500rpm problem sounds like a bad boost leak.

You'd be better off starting a new thread with your symptoms if you're having an issue.
 
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