I did the same swap on my car but you forgot that the auto have a differnt fpr, so if anything your way to rich manuals have 37 and auto is 42-43 so your too rich also you still have stock auto cams. They don't have the same top end as manual cams there more set up for low end and that's all,

What you should do is get a 14b with exhaust manifold waterlines, oil lines manual fpr and manual cams and turn the boost up to 15 and be running high 13's all day and be reliable

1g manual dsm's don't really flow much more fuel then a auto cause of how low the fpr is set at manaual flow like 405cc while auto actully flow 390cc cause of the fpr settings, switching to the other ecu is a marginal upgrade

Did you get the 450cc resistor pack? that could be why its so lean.

TylerAWD said:

I did the same swap on my car but you forgot that the auto have a differnt fpr, so if anything your way to rich manuals have 37 and auto is 42-43 so your too rich also you still have stock auto cams. They don't have the same top end as manual cams there more set up for low end and that's all,

What you should do is get a 14b with exhaust manifold waterlines, oil lines manual fpr and manual cams and turn the boost up to 15 and be running high 13's all day and be reliable

1g manual dsm's don't really flow much more fuel then a auto cause of how low the fpr is set at manaual flow like 405cc while auto actully flow 390cc cause of the fpr settings, switching to the other ecu is a marginal upgrade

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So if what you say is true, then putting a FPR from an auto on a 5spd car should make it run more rich? Im not too sure about this, i thought the stock FP for a 5spd was 43 psi??

no i didn't get a resistor pack so that is possibly why it is so lean. what is fpr

Yeah i would just try the 450cc resistor pack cause the auto and 5-speed packs have different resistance for the injectors, the fpr should really not be so much the problem but you might as well get a 5-speed n/t fpr (fuel pressure regulator)

There is no difference between the resistor packs on the 1G manual or autos. All the 1G turbos use the same resistor pack.

There are two different 1G turbo FPR's, the 36.3 psi regulator for the manual cars and the 42.7 psi from the auto. The 1G NT FPR runs 47.6 psi

The 450cc injectors flow about 411cc using the manual turbo FPR, the 390cc injectors flow 386cc using the auto FPR and the 450's on the auto FPR flow 446cc. If you happen to mix the 450's with a NT FPR they flow 471cc.

steve said:

There is no difference between the resistor packs on the 1G manual or autos. All the 1G turbos use the same resistor pack.

There are two different 1G turbo FPR's, the 36.3 psi regulator for the manual cars and the 42.7 psi from the auto. The 1G NT FPR runs 47.6 psi

The 450cc injectors flow about 411cc using the manual turbo FPR, the 390cc injectors flow 386cc using the auto FPR and the 450's on the auto FPR flow 446cc. If you happen to mix the 450's with a NT FPR they flow 471cc.

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I been looking for info like this for awhile as i have a little fuel delima myself, you wouldn't happen to know the numbers to identify which fpr is which as i have about 8 in a box and need to know what i have.

I was always told that the resistor packs were different, but that clears it up.

What about 390cc injectors with nt ecu ( my current set up) I have an auto turbo ecu and a turbo manual ecu (car used to be turbod like stock then got switch to nt but my injectors are 390cc so should I run the turbo ecu even no it has no knock sensor on it I'm in the process of coollecting 1g turbo parts I'm about 77 percent done then I'll turbo it after lowering the compression and new belts n gaskets (injectors are 100% low impendence 3 ohm injectors with resistor pack . Irun rich on start up and input appreciated did t wanna start a new thread

Wait, it has the resistor pack wired in? Then it is a turbo harness (or someone has done half of the leg work for you converting a NT harness) and you should be able to hook up a knock sensor without too much issue and use the correct ECU.

So long as you are using the resistor pack with the turbo injectors, it should be okay. Gander over at: injector colors, what's the diff?

There 100% the 390 cc grey tops the car from factory was turbo and when the guy switch it over he left the fpr( guessing a fuel pump<not to sure if I do have the tubo fpr or pump or not but it has everything from Bcs -nock sensor plug so I could run that auto ecu and my car will run less rich at start up and maybe better gas milage? Heck I even have the 7 wire turbo maf the car had the turbo ecu but got cel for nock I think when I bought the car a year ago srry my iPhone screen is really smashed up hard to type and read

19Eclipse90 said:

Wait, it has the resistor pack wired in? Then it is a turbo harness (or someone has done half of the leg work for you converting a NT harness) and you should be able to hook up a knock sensor without too much issue and use the correct ECU.

So long as you are using the resistor pack with the turbo injectors, it should be okay. Gander over at: injector colors, what's the diff?

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I acually replaced an injector do to it being cracked and the car ran fine other than me haveing to shoot the rpm up so it won't die and also haveing to be careful with reversing I get what sounds like fuel cut kinda Rpms drop to 500 and I gotta ease on the gas so it doesn't stall and I'm guess in it has to do with possibly a turbo fpr (please help find out witch one I have so I no if I gotta replace it when it comes time to turbo) going to maybe try my turbo ecus I have chilling in my closet,

I'm not sure there is a definitive "identification" mark on 1G fuel pressure regulators to help determine what is what. So you may just have to test it to find out for yourself.

Kk I'll see if my dad has a fp tester