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Drag/Standing mile project

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He needs the gearing for mile competitions. This is not just a drag car.
 
Slippi84 said:
I knew the auto fanboys would come screaming smh.
Click to expand...

Hey what can I say.. I already been where you're trying to go. Its a hard road. Hell guys are breaking their DogBoxes and built T cases still.. I dunno, after you drop $10K-15K in JUST your drive train and get the chance to experience the feeling of still being paranoid it'll break, you'll better understand.

As for the rest of it I was most certainly joking knowing this is a 1mile car and not a drag car. Autos currently don't have the proper gearing, not to say it isn't possible to change it... You're less likely to break a transmission in the 1mile due to power and normally more associated with prolonged wear resulting from abnormal temperatures. With that being said, looking at the rest of the car I'm positive that he wont cheap out on the parts and the car will definitely have everything it needs to stay as close to one piece as possible.
 
TSimage said:
Hey what can I say.. I already been where you're trying to go. Its a hard road. Hell guys are breaking their DogBoxes and built T cases still.. I dunno, after you drop $10K-15K in JUST your drive train and get the chance to experience the feeling of still being paranoid it'll break, you'll better understand.

As for the rest of it I was most certainly joking knowing this is a 1mile car and not a drag car. Autos currently don't have the proper gearing, not to say it isn't possible to change it... You're less likely to break a transmission in the 1mile due to power and normally more associated with prolonged wear resulting from abnormal temperatures. With that being said, looking at the rest of the car I'm positive that he wont cheap out on the parts and the car will definitely have everything it needs to stay as close to one piece as possible.
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Where have you been that hes trying to go?

Or are you speaking of the previous owner of your car? that had about 6 trannys R&D to hold?
 
945liter said:
Where have you been that hes trying to go?

Or are you speaking of the previous owner of your car? that had about 6 trannys R&D to hold?
Click to expand...

:confused:

Comprehension possibly wasn't your strong point.

We were talking about a DogBox setup. Dunno what "6 trannys R&D to hold?" means either but thats neither here nor there.. I plan not to go where That hack job scammer Erik went with anything about the car which has been rebuilt from the round up everywhere minus the tranny which is headed back to ATF to get some tweaking done.

I had a $3K back-up TRE stage 3 with goodies that I traded for a dogbox (put cash on top from selling my other Stage 3 I had on the car) I started buying the rest of the DT parts and as I did I just had a bitter sweet experience.. Next up was a Shep T-Case and when Jake came into town and we talked about him blowing up his near $3K T-Case I had a drastic change of heart.

Like I said, I'm not arguing with anyone about it or trying to change their mind. The comment I made to John was a joke in the first place. Bottom line is is that if you wanna go fast in the 1/4 your best option dollar for dollar is an auto. We get it, you simply don't want to run an auto, that fine, there is just no valid argument besides that to support such a decision unless the car was meant for more than 1/4 such as 1mile, track, or ya just want a damn stick. Hell my Galant will always be a 5spd. OTher than the 2spd PowerGlide on my Camaro, the Talon is the only Auto I have ever owned purposely LOL.



Slippi84 said:
Took the words right out my mouth. :rolleyes:
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I see, so he stuck his foot in your mouth for ya.. I get it :applause::thumb:
 
TSimage said:
Hey what can I say.. I already been where you're trying to go. Its a hard road. Hell guys are breaking their DogBoxes and built T cases still.. I dunno, after you drop $10K-15K in JUST your drive train and get the chance to experience the feeling of still being paranoid it'll break, you'll better understand.

As for the rest of it I was most certainly joking knowing this is a 1mile car and not a drag car. Autos currently don't have the proper gearing, not to say it isn't possible to change it... You're less likely to break a transmission in the 1mile due to power and normally more associated with prolonged wear resulting from abnormal temperatures. With that being said, looking at the rest of the car I'm positive that he wont cheap out on the parts and the car will definitely have everything it needs to stay as close to one piece as possible.
Click to expand...

I"m trying to run 9's you haven't done that yet PERIOD that was the point no foot in my mouth man. Good luck with your build though :applause::thumb:
 
Sounds like the person this post should get back on topic...clearly it was a joke, considering its "drag/standing mile project" Auto is still possible but would take some money to get the gearing tall enough.

I think the Bench racers should sit back and stop flapping there gums until there cars are running and making passes. Just a idea.
 
TSimage said:
:confused:

Comprehension possibly wasn't your strong point.

We were talking about a DogBox setup. Dunno what "6 trannys R&D to hold?" means either but thats neither here nor there.. I plan not to go where That hack job scammer Erik went with anything about the car which has been rebuilt from the round up everywhere minus the tranny which is headed back to ATF to get some tweaking done.

I had a $3K back-up TRE stage 3 with goodies that I traded for a dogbox (put cash on top from selling my other Stage 3 I had on the car) I started buying the rest of the DT parts and as I did I just had a bitter sweet experience.. Next up was a Shep T-Case and when Jake came into town and we talked about him blowing up his near $3K T-Case I had a drastic change of heart.

Like I said, I'm not arguing with anyone about it or trying to change their mind. The comment I made to John was a joke in the first place. Bottom line is is that if you wanna go fast in the 1/4 your best option dollar for dollar is an auto. We get it, you simply don't want to run an auto, that fine, there is just no valid argument besides that to support such a decision unless the car was meant for more than 1/4 such as 1mile, track, or ya just want a damn stick. Hell my Galant will always be a 5spd. OTher than the 2spd PowerGlide on my Camaro, the Talon is the only Auto I have ever owned purposely LOL.





I see, so he stuck his foot in your mouth for ya.. I get it :applause::thumb:
Click to expand...


I love how you get so defensive and always try to belittle people you argue with ROFL

Ill sit back and take no offense, i find it funny!! 80% of that car is not a hackjob and was done nicely somethings erik did were not the smartest idea but most of the wiring and other work is done by Shane is nice.

You held on to the worse thing on the car the tranny:tease: "6 trannys R&D to hold?" it never lasted more then 1-2 passes good luck with ATF finally figuring it out.



Back on topic OP... You have an amazing car both visually and mechanically good luck with everything.
 
I am fully aware of what an auto can do, and don't think it has not been considered for when drag racing. We ran 9.4@148 with the shop car years ago with an auto, hell the shop car held the auto awd record multiple times in its life. Jason's full weight DD auto car here runs 9.4@145 and his brother's street car 9.8@139. But I am stubborn and have to shift it for the mile anyway, just worry about breaking a dog box. I can stomach fixing a 2-3k trans more than a 6k.

With the stock tcase on the car I knew it would break, no big deal. I did not anticipate breaking 2 DSS stg 5 rear axles (now upgraded to proseries), rear diffs I knew would happen just not so soon. The upgraded tcase ripped the teeth off the gears but was likely due to the previous driveline breakage shocking it and weakening it. The output shaft in the trans I am sure broke due to the tooth failure on the tcase and will be replaced with a 300m shaft. If I break another rear diff after the cover with load bolts is put on I will replace the whole rearend with a ford 8.8 setup and be done with it. Half of this breakage has been my fault, leaving the line at 25psi is hard on parts period. I am going to be less aggressive for a while get it down the track and ready for the mile in April.

For now I am waiting on the diff cover and new transfer case to be ready. Then will be back at it first of the year. Breaking stuff is part of racing, if you can't afford to break it don't race it.
 
Slippi84 said:
I"m trying to run 9's you haven't done that yet PERIOD that was the point no foot in my mouth man. Good luck with your build though :applause::thumb:
Click to expand...

9s yes, in a DSM no, gone 12s-10s yes, you, no. So yes, I've been where you are trying to go even from that stand point.. Regardless, does that change the point made about owning said transmission and having said doubts?.. No it doesn't. Hell I wasn't even shooting for 9s and still got queezy worrying about it still breaking. Jus sayin'. "I been where you're tryin' to go.." GL on your build as always.



945liter said:
I love how you get so defensive and always try to belittle people you argue with ROFL

Ill sit back and take no offense, i find it funny!! 80% of that car is not a hackjob and was done nicely somethings erik did were not the smartest idea but most of the wiring and other work is done by Shane is nice.

You held on to the worse thing on the car the tranny:tease: "6 trannys R&D to hold?" it never lasted more then 1-2 passes good luck with ATF finally figuring it out.



Back on topic OP... You have an amazing car both visually and mechanically good luck with everything.
Click to expand...

Me saying you lacked comprehension wasn't belittling you, it was a mere observation.. And the CAR is definitely not a hack job. Its still one of the nicest ones I have seen minus a few minor things here and there I would have done and have done differently to it. I agree that Shane and those guys at ASAP are definitely good guys and hell me contacting Shane is the only way I got a lot of my parts Erik disappeared and seemed to "forget" to send. I could tell you Horror stories of stuff Erik has done so we wont derail this thread with that scumbags existence. And no biggie on the tranny, I don't mind the R&D aspect of doing something different, its all part of the journey. There are always more options whether its this tranny or one I build myself it'll get the job done one way or another.

Regardless of any of that, it changed little that you misinterpreted what I was saying, it was explained now lets get back on topic.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Stop cluttering John's thread. If you want to keep going back and forth, take it to PM's.
 
JohnTSI said:
I am fully aware of what an auto can do, and don't think it has not been considered for when drag racing. We ran 9.4@148 with the shop car years ago with an auto, hell the shop car held the auto awd record multiple times in its life. Jason's full weight DD auto car here runs 9.4@145 and his brother's street car 9.8@139. But I am stubborn and have to shift it for the mile anyway, just worry about breaking a dog box. I can stomach fixing a 2-3k trans more than a 6k.

With the stock tcase on the car I knew it would break, no big deal. I did not anticipate breaking 2 DSS stg 5 rear axles (now upgraded to proseries), rear diffs I knew would happen just not so soon. The upgraded tcase ripped the teeth off the gears but was likely due to the previous driveline breakage shocking it and weakening it. The output shaft in the trans I am sure broke due to the tooth failure on the tcase and will be replaced with a 300m shaft. If I break another rear diff after the cover with load bolts is put on I will replace the whole rearend with a ford 8.8 setup and be done with it. Half of this breakage has been my fault, leaving the line at 25psi is hard on parts period. I am going to be less aggressive for a while get it down the track and ready for the mile in April.

For now I am waiting on the diff cover and new transfer case to be ready. Then will be back at it first of the year. Breaking stuff is part of racing, if you can't afford to break it don't race it.
Click to expand...

Which clutch are you running and what's your launch tech? Your right 25psi is a lot out the hole I always aimed more for like 10-15is
 
PTT twin, 2 step is set at 7900, makes about 12 psi, but once you load the staging brake it shoots up to 25psi almost instantly.
 
JohnTSI said:
PTT twin, 2 step is set at 7900, makes about 12 psi, but once you load the staging brake it shoots up to 25psi almost instantly.
Click to expand...

Drop the 2 step to more like 6k and then when you go to preload it should even out closer to like 18psi or so that would be a lot easier on drivetrain parts and then you don't have to ####y foot it out the whole. I know the 4202 is big but shouldn't need that to get her that high to come out the hole hard.
 
You guys understand John has been around the block more than a couple times, and has owned fast stick and auto cars, he knows what he's doing and why and what he wants out of it.
 
6k won't do anything on this turbo with a 1.28 hotside. I was leaving at 25psi intentionally I know what I need to do to drop boost at launch I just didn't anticipate it coming apart at that boost level, 15psi has netted me 1.5 60's already.
 
Changed some thing slightly, new intake manifold is on its way back to Canada for a second rail to be added for more fuel. Also in the process of getting Marco to whip up some parts for a new motor. I was going to put the drysump on the current motor but decided if I am going to go through all that I want to change some other things with the motor I will just build a new one and use the current one as a backup. Once the manifold gets back I will do some drag racing until the new mile motor setup is done. Also have a couple of larger turbos I will be trying out to see how they work.

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Beautiful build and a very nice car indeed... One thing i'd like to point out though, but before i do

I am only offering CONSTRUCTIVE criticizm The way the pipes come out of your FMIC has been shown to be one of the least efficient ways you cna build your end tanks (squared off with the outlets 90* from the core's flow and tank end, because it's not a smooth transition in or out of the core.. I think there's something to gain if you were to bring the outlets straight out each end in the direction of flow, or built the front part of the end tanks with a "rounded" shape to direct the air to the outlets and throught the core from the inlet...again, not sayin anything bad, just offering some advice that i've come across many times in my years of building cars, turbo kits and fabbing end tanks for cores as well..sometimes it can't be helped, but if you have room, it might make some gains!!
 
I appreciate your input but its not possible as the drysump tank is about to be mounted in the area of the stock I/C. And if I change the intercooler it will be to switch to a liquid to air unit. Intake temps have stayed suprisingly low at 1000hp so its doing its job and pressure drop pre-ic to intake manifold is not much at all.
 
turboglenn said:
Beautiful build and a very nice car indeed... One thing i'd like to point out though, but before i do

I am only offering CONSTRUCTIVE criticizm The way the pipes come out of your FMIC has been shown to be one of the least efficient ways you cna build your end tanks (squared off with the outlets 90* from the core's flow and tank end, because it's not a smooth transition in or out of the core.. I think there's something to gain if you were to bring the outlets straight out each end in the direction of flow, or built the front part of the end tanks with a "rounded" shape to direct the air to the outlets and throught the core from the inlet...again, not sayin anything bad, just offering some advice that i've come across many times in my years of building cars, turbo kits and fabbing end tanks for cores as well..sometimes it can't be helped, but if you have room, it might make some gains!!
Click to expand...


Backdoor entry FMIC's have been shown to provide good airflow distribution across the frontal surface area of the core with tight packaging. Sure 90 degree turns don't flow the best but the turbulators in the FMIC also don't aide flow. The tapered entry and exit end cores do flow well but require the kind of room that really isn't available in most cars. Its a good compromise and seeing as John is making 1000hp I'd say the compromise is working quite well.
 
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