do you have a afpr?

I actually don't, my fuel system is completely stock except for the injectors. I saw this kit on ffwd and i didn't know if it would be a good idea or a waste of money and i would still have to get a fuel pump i didn't think it came with one. so would it be worth it to buy the kit and a fuel pump or just the kit, and do you think this would solve my problem of the car not starting thanks

POST A LOG! You've got dsmlink and can share whats going on with your car publicly without explaining it. I know the car won't start but you can still connect with dsmlink and do a log of it trying to start... Be sure your logging CoolantTemp, front o2, MAFRaw, and InjOn.

Check for spark, check for fuel at the rail, and check your timing.

Buying a fuel pump is just going to keep you spending money and still not have a running car. You might find that your fuel pump is dead however, you won't know that until you check for fuel at the rail.

First of, we need more info. What is the car DOING? Does it crank? Does it try to chug over? Does it just keep spinning with no indication of it starting? How did you scale your injectors? Did you just put in "750" for your injector scaling? Because that is not how you do it.

Even with bigger injectors the car SHOULD still start.

to post a log can i do it in this thread or do i have to go somewhere else to do it, i have never done that before i have 2 of them saved to my computer tho before i have the injectors installed if that helps i won't be able to get on of it trying to start until later today.

here is the one that is before the injectors if you could just point out some stuff wrong with it from there that would be great, im gunna try to get a log on in the next hour or so of trying to start it after the injectors.

Have you adjusted anything on dsmlink yet? A log of before all this doesn't really do us anything since it ran before.

i did when i first got it a couple months back a guy that is supposed to be good at tuning helped me with some things over the phone but unfortunately that was before the injectors were installed, and on the misc tab do i need to have "activate fuel pump" on i just noticed that was off is that the problem? thanks

The activate fuel pump just activates the pump to make sure it's working.

You still haven't answered the other questions. When you try to start the car what is it DOING? Also HOW did you dial in your injectors?

My injectors are dialed in as 750's, thats what i was told to do, also when i start the car it cranks just fine and as good as it did before the injectors and when im trying to start it sometimes it almost chugs over and starts but it just doesn't quite make it i don't get it.

I really need to get the car running so that i can move it to my dads shop, its in my moms driveway and she is moving in two weeks and i don't want to have to pay to get it towed, when im sure the problem isn't that big of a deal

You're injectors aren't dialed in for one. Whoever told you to just put 750 in was wrong. Put your stock injectors back in then try from there with your factory settings back on dsmlink. It's more than likely fuel related from your explanation of it.

Also, why did you buy 750's if you don't have anything done to the car?

1. Post a log of it not starting and capture CoolantTemp, Front o2, MAFRaw, & InjOn.
2. Check for spark at the spark plugs
3. Check for fuel at the fuel rail

If you do the above you won't have to worry about getting the thing towed out of your moms driveway because after doing so you'll have enough information to tell us whats going on with the car. "The car won't start..." isn't enough believe it or not but if you can tell us if your getting spark on only 2 cylinders or theres no fuel making it to the rail then we have something to go off of.

You don't type 750cc injectors into anywhere on dsmlink, you type the global changes you'd make for 750's though. To figure out your global settings you've got to do some math. The stock injectors are 450cc and your new injectors are 750cc so you need to find the difference in flow and then subtract 1.
^^^ THESE ARE YOUR NEW GLOBAL FUEL SETTINGS THAT YOU CHANGE IN THE FUEL TAB ^^^

i got them for free when i bought my 20g turbo and ss open 02 dump. so i figured they would be fine, is there any way you can go over my log and make changes to it for and i can put the stock injectors back in it just to get the car moved for now

how do i check for spark, how to i check for fuel at the rail, and what tab are those settings on to turn them on. I literally don't know anything about dsm link and i don't know much about dsm's yet, sorry i feel like a pain in the ass because i don't know what im doing

Checking for spark you can take a screw driver- put it in the spark plug wire and touch/hold the metal screwdriver to somewhere on the car. Have a friend crank and see if it sparks.

For fuel pull the return line off the FPR. Hit the "activate fuel pump" on dsmlink and see if fuel comes out.

ewyss said:

i got them for free when i bought my 20g turbo and ss open 02 dump. so i figured they would be fine, is there any way you can go over my log and make changes to it for and i can put the stock injectors back in it just to get the car moved for now

how do i check for spark, how to i check for fuel at the rail, and what tab are those settings on to turn them on. I literally don't know anything about dsm link and i don't know much about dsm's yet, sorry i feel like a pain in the ass because i don't know what im doing

Click to expand...

The SEARCH button on here will set you free big guy. Believe it or not you don't own the only DSM that has never been able to start after a fuel injector install. These cars have been around since 1989...

Since your new I'll let it slide and explain everything, next time though use that search button up top.

CHECK THE ECU
When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position does the CEL stay illuminated for 5 seconds and then disappear? If the answer is yes then you can eliminate the ECU as being the culprit (for now) and move onto checking the spark.

CHECKING SPARK
There are a few ways to check spark but I remove a plug, connect the plug wire back up to it and lay the plug across a good grounding point. Then, while someone else cranks the car, watch the gap between the electrodes and confirm that you're seeing an electrical arc across this gap. If you get a good spark on all (4) spark plugs and they look like they are in good shape then you need to check your fuel delivery.

CHECK FUEL
You need to make sure that the fuel pump is pressurizing the fuel rail. Hopefully you have a fuel pressure gauge for this purpose. If not, you can disconnect the fuel return line from the pressure regulator and run it into a gas can or something to confirm that fuel flows out when the pump is activated.
*IF THE MOTOR IS GETTING FUEL TO THE RAIL GAS WILL COME OUT OF THE LINE JUST CRANKING THE CAR OVER. I'd tell you to use the "activate fuel pump" option in dsmlink but its not very controlled because it doesn't kick off very fast if your spraying gas everywhere.
If you get gas to the fuel rail you need to make sure the fuel injectors are working. I just put in ear up to them and listen for them "clicking" while the cars idling...

ok i changed the global fuel to what you said, is there anything else i should do.

gofer said:

The SEARCH button on here will set you free big guy. Believe it or not you don't own the only DSM that has never been able to start after a fuel injector install. These cars have been around since 1989...

Since your new I'll let it slide and explain everything, next time though use that search button up top.

CHECK THE ECU
When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position does the CEL stay illuminated for 5 seconds and then disappear? If the answer is yes then you can eliminate the ECU as being the culprit (for now) and move onto checking the spark.

CHECKING SPARK
There are a few ways to check spark but I remove a plug, connect the plug wire back up to it and lay the plug across a good grounding point. Then, while someone else cranks the car, watch the gap between the electrodes and confirm that you're seeing an electrical arc across this gap. If you get a good spark on all (4) spark plugs and they look like they are in good shape then you need to check your fuel delivery.

CHECK FUEL
You need to make sure that the fuel pump is pressurizing the fuel rail. Hopefully you have a fuel pressure gauge for this purpose. If not, you can disconnect the fuel return line from the pressure regulator and run it into a gas can or something to confirm that fuel flows out when the pump is activated.
*IF THE MOTOR IS GETTING FUEL TO THE RAIL GAS WILL COME OUT OF THE LINE JUST CRANKING THE CAR OVER SO BE CAREFUL.
If you get gas to the fuel rail you need to make sure the fuel injectors are working. I just put in ear up to them and listen for them "clicking" while the cars idling...

Click to expand...

Can't check the injectors for clicking when it doesn't start.

ok great i'll check the ecu, fuel, and spark then ill let you know what happened.

ewyss said:

ok i changed the global fuel to what you said, is there anything else i should do.

Click to expand...

Dare I ask where you had 750cc typed into link? If it was in the global fuel settings then its no wonder the car wouldn't start...

Tyeler18 said:

Can't check the injectors for clicking when it doesn't start.

Click to expand...

Your right however, thats why I mentioned logging InjOn in dsmlink when hes trying to start it. Same difference.

Im having the same problem, with my v3 ecu, car acts like it wants to start but doesnt, however when i put in the other ecu i have the car starts right up. funny thing is i just paid 130.00 to ecm tuning to have my eprom ecu socketed and repaird and it still does the same as before i sent it off. your ecu could be bad.

thats exactly what i did too i paid to have some thing fixed in it and it was socketed by MAP but no luck yet, how did you fix yours or have you yet.

i havent yet, becouase my maf is bad. im waitng to pruchase a new maf before i send it back off. i took it apart and everything looks new. and sometimes the car starts with the v3 ecu and sometimes it doesnt, and it takes forever to actually start. when it finally does it runs horrible till it temps up thats with both ecus. what my car does with my v3 ecu is wierd. it will accelerate fine til about 3,100 rpms right around when the boost kicks in then the car almost dies then comes back to life at around 5,500. if i floor it the boost builds up but rpms or mph doesnt change.

90dsm87 said:

i havent yet, becouase my maf is bad. im waitng to pruchase a new maf before i send it back off. i took it apart and everything looks new. and sometimes the car starts with the v3 ecu and sometimes it doesnt, and it takes forever to actually start. when it finally does it runs horrible till it temps up thats with both ecus. what my car does with my v3 ecu is wierd. it will accelerate fine til about 3,100 rpms right around when the boost kicks in then the car almost dies then comes back to life at around 5,500. if i floor it the boost builds up but rpms or mph doesnt change.

Click to expand...

You need an MAF? I have both a hacked and unhacked 1g MAF PM me if you're interested.

Your horrible starting sounds like the coolant temp sensor. It's a common problem. When it's faulty it thinks that the outside temp is much colder than it really is, so it pours fuel in which floods to motor. If you put the pedal 3/4 down when cranking does it start better?

Ok i checked the ecu it was fine, then i didn't get to do the other two because with the wind chill it is below 0 outside, but i don't think it is the spark plugs because they have less than 1000 miles on them. i don't know about the fuel to rail, i will get it inside the garage hopefully and have a friend help with the spark plugs and fuel rail checks.
but here is my log of the car trying to start, it wasn't as willing to crank due to the cold temp's here the battery got worse as i tried and i only tried about 3 times and each time it didn't crank as fast. but here is the log.

Coolant temp sensor is faulty.