I bought this turbo with shaft play and saw small amount of damage. Then I got home and took it apart... Is it scrap?
Could this be polished out? What kind of clearance is there from blades to housing?


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Looks like scrap, I would returned it if possible.

Doesn't look like that's gonna buff out... I'm gonna guess you'll need a wheel and housing to make it right. Justin will chime in sooner or later and let you know for sure.

Going to need a new compressor and cover, for sure. Also, a lot of times when thrust play is that much, the back of the turbine rubs on the heat shield, and gets damaged also.

http://www.gillettdiesel.com/H1upgradecompressorhousingandwheel60mm.aspx
Should I go with the largest I can get? I'm looking for 450ish HP.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hols...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Or snag something like this?

donniekak said:

Going to need a new compressor and cover, for sure. Also, a lot of times when thrust play is that much, the back of the turbine rubs on the heat shield, and gets damaged also.

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^ What he said. You need to check the turbine wheel for damage.

Definitely suffered from a thrust failure. This is the reason that thrust wear is the worst to have- it results in wheel damage much quicker than journal bearing wear.

Personally I'd find another core. You can buy good H1C / H1E cores for much less than what it would cost to replace the wheel and cover on this turbo.

The sad thing is I've repaired turbos that had much worse damage than this from thrust wear for customers who were too cheap to fix them the correct way. If you rebuilt it, chances are it would perform just fine and you'd never notice any lack of performance.

jusmx141 said:

The sad thing is I've repaired turbos that had much worse damage than this from thrust wear for customers who were too cheap to fix them the correct way. If you rebuilt it, chances are it would perform just fine and you'd never notice any lack of performance.

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That's not sad, that's good. Im going to rebuild it and put a new wheel in it and hope for the best. After that ill have $200ish in the turbo. Could have gotten better but you can't get all the good deals!

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I bought the 58mm upgrade from Gillett Diesel. Great guys, fast shipping, and awesome product. You will not be dissappointed if you go that route.

Does anyone know if i can send it out to someone for a 58 or 60mm bore?

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SlowChild3 said:

Does anyone know if i can send it out to someone for a 58 or 60mm bore?

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I have a rare 60mm h1e I need to sell..



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not this has anything to do with the h1c but i bought a replacement turbine wheel for my hx40 and i definitely could have bought another one at that price

I've found wheels for $60.

asrdave said:

not this has anything to do with the h1c but i bought a replacement turbine wheel for my hx40 and i definitely could have bought another one at that price

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SlowChild3 said:

Does anyone know if i can send it out to someone for a 58 or 60mm bore?

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You'll have to buy the compressor, cut the center housing for the larger wheel to fit, and buy a new compressor cover (you can't bore a 54mm H1C / HX35 cover to accept a 60mm wheel because of the MWE groove), and have the rotating assembly rebalanced. Be prepared to spend $300-$350 on getting this done.

If I were you I'd just clean everything up and rebuild it as-is. You have nothing to lose if it doesn't work out except the price of the parts kit.

jusmx141 said:

If I were you I'd just clean everything up and rebuild it as-is. You have nothing to lose if it doesn't work out except the price of the parts kit.

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Im gonna measure the compressor tonight to see how much got cut off. I assume it will still build boost but be slightly more laggy than normal. I haven't got the shaft out yet let's hope its not bent. let this be a lesson to everyone buying a blown turbo! Don't just look for visable defects, open it up! Thanks for your help jusmx

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and have the rotating assembly rebalanced.

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I was just thinking of this! Not to thread jack, but say your average mechanic was going to rebuild their turbo. We would still need to have the new assembly balanced, correct? And where are places we could take that to be done?

The H1C's and H1E's are all assembly-balanced from the factory. There are alignment marks that you must follow during a rebuild. If you replace one of the wheels, you risk the assembly being out of balance so it is recommended to get the assembly rebalanced.

Any turbo shop should be able to help you. The same machine that balances rotating electrical parts also balances turbochargers. I'm working on getting one of these machines for my own use, but I can't justify the $15k+ price tag at this time.

If you look at my first picture you can see 3 pieces missing on back of compressor wheel. Is this damage or balance?

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15k Is a pretty high price tag for one of those things!! geeze!! How much does it usually cost to have the rotating assembly balanced? Usually?


I dont see any pieces missing in your first pic other then the wheel damage from the comp cover..

SlowChild3 said:

If you look at my first picture you can see 3 pieces missing on back of compressor wheel. Is this damage or balance?

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Balance. MHI and Holset will grind the outside edge of the wheel; Garrett will grind the back of the wheel (not visible without removing the wheel).

crash89 said:

15k Is a pretty high price tag for one of those things!! geeze!!

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Are you shitting me? The VSR machines that places like FP use are $100k+ and have their own oil supply.

crash89 said:

How much does it usually cost to have the rotating assembly balanced?

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$45-$65 depending on the shop and the machine doing the work.

jusmx141 said:

Balance.

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You are a turbo god. Thank you!

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Are you shitting me? The VSR machines that places like FP use are $100k+ and have their own oil supply.

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I really have no idea how much they cost or anything really about them. I was just sayin thats a crap load of money!! I would buy a new truck with that instead! But you would actually use a machine like that so I can see why you would want to buy one! Oh and thanks for the info Jusmx!

Doing a little polishing figured id share with this thread. Luckly im able to use good tools from work. The dynafile is great. I shaved the housing. Gonna take off rest of coating with the dynafile. Ill start with some 600 grit paper and then 1000 grit. Then hopefully ill be popin pimples in it after some buff wheel work.




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Why are you putting so much work into a damaged compressor cover?

Did that it 20 minutes plus im at work so im getting paid anyway

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