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How to use a wetshot to build boost

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johnmarines

10+ Year Contributor
377
3
Jun 1, 2008
houston, Texas
I was wondering the correct way to build boost on the line with a wetshot. I recently installed a wetkit because I wanted to build boost off the line at the track. Once installed I installed a 35 shot and activated it at 2200 rmps to build boost.. it built alittle boost but nothing like I was expecting. Then I bumped up to a 50 shot and went to brake boost then ..POW... snapped axle on the passenger side!! Is there a proper way on doing this? The reason why I'm activating it at 2200 rpm's is because I cannot build anymore rpm's with out nitrious. I am thinking of activating it at 2500 rpm's to give my drivtrain time to not get shocked. I was just wondering how other people are doing this without snaping axles. Thanks guys... here are some pictures of the carnage of my axle.


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Install awd, disperse load across 4 axles. Next question......




Lol, just kidding. Perhaps you were doing every thing correctly but there was already some structural compromise to the axle after some wheel hop from another occasion. I don't think what happened to you is very common while staging.
 
Install awd, disperse load across 4 axles. Next question......




Lol, just kidding. Perhaps you were doing every thing correctly but there was already some structural compromise to the axle after some wheel hop from another occasion. I don't think what happened to you is very common while staging.

Funny...LOL maybe one day very soon I'll do the awd swap.. Only thing is to find a awd donor with a auto setup.
 
you need more converter. What turbo are you running? You shouldn't need nitrous for a FWD car, no need to be launching with that much power without the traction.

I accidentally made 37 PSI on the footbrake once and didn't break anything. Not sure how, but I consider it a miracle.
 
You need a higher stall converter. The stock converter will start moving the car way too soon to build any boost with your setup.
 
you need more converter. What turbo are you running? You shouldn't need nitrous for a FWD car, no need to be launching with that much power without the traction.

I accidentally made 37 PSI on the footbrake once and didn't break anything. Not sure how, but I consider it a miracle.

My car is not even tuned all the way yet and I can't build more than 10 lbs without pushing passed the brakes....
 
My car is not even tuned all the way yet and I can't build more than 10 lbs without pushing passed the brakes....

Having a high stall helps, as does good brakes. Make sure your brake booster is fully powered, your brake master is properly adjusted, and SS brake lines help a bit too.

As for the OP, you need a high stall converter for that setup. The idea of the stock one is nice for efficiency, but you really should have the higher stall. It'll probably help you hook too.
 
So let me see if I understand this .. In order for me to build some boost off the line I will need to have a higher stall converter even with a 35 shot?
 
Upgrade your brakes! LOL. I am running a Holset and can build 15psi on the line without the hand brake, over 20psi with handbrake before I start moving. Stock converter.
 
Ive always heard its a bad idea to activate nitrous under 3k rpm.......can lead to a backfire
 
Upgrade your brakes! LOL. I am running a Holset and can build 15psi on the line without the hand brake, over 20psi with handbrake before I start moving. Stock converter.

I have drilled and slotted rotors with new pads. My car has yet to pull through the brakes.

Ive always heard its a bad idea to activate nitrous under 3k rpm.......can lead to a backfire

I have heard mixed reviews on this statment ^^^^^
 
yes please dont ever trigger nitrous nowhere near 3500rpms or below or you are just asking for a nitrous backfire..
 
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