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400 miles after rebuild, and..

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GrattinoDSM

10+ Year Contributor
219
1
Apr 10, 2009
Watertown, New_York
so i've put about 400 on the motor i rebuilt, and have decided to get it checked out and fixed by someone who knows alot more of what they're doing and then i'm going to drive it as is until tax time and buy a daily and then mod the crap outta it... anywho!

i've put about 400 on it, and did a compression test it read as follows 150-150-130-150 could the 130 on cylinder 3 be just because the piston rings arent set yet, or what?
 
yes i believe it was, i followed the seemingly unanimous, do the 30mph-50mph pulls to get the rings set i did that about 15 times then i've babied it, i might try again after another 50ish miles, and i've used a good HG, and ARPs and the head and block were surfaced so i dont know! ill try again
 
im currently on my 47th mile but havent used boost (my mistake) so i have a misfire on my no.2 cylinder and the compression on it reads 150 so after reading i found out the rest of break in i need to drive it like i normally would including WOT with boost and all... with that said perhaps you didnt boost it ether and that could be a problem. but like indian said try the test again.
 
if im wrong by all means tell me but i read that its 170 stock and 135-130 service limit... so 150 seems safe to me but like i said i could be wrong ive read of other owners that hit 180 across board after breakin
 
alright, will do ill recheck headstud torque, try another 50ish miles and recheck compression
 
honestly the rings will seat for the most part within the first 50 miles if not sooner. The first few miles are the most inportant after any rebuild for seating the rings.
 
verying rpm is key. you dont want to sit at a steady rpm for very long. also you want to very the load on the engine. stay out of boost. boost will cause blow by and thats something you dont want.
 
After a rebuild I always drove the car for about 500-1000 miles NORMAL, then I changed the oil, check compression, and check head studs torque. If everything is good I know it's time for some boost.:)
 
i break my cars in hard with low boost, after 50 miles ive pushed more then 40 psi and still never have had a problem
 
Might sound like a noob question but how do u stay off boost on a 2g turbo in which boost comes in at around 2500 rpm? The rpms do need to vary for proper seating but anything over 3k and you're already boosting.
 
Disconect the wastegate actuator, The flapper will let exhaust free flow that way so it wont spool up
 
Remember to check the torque on the head studs, id retorque them to 120lb assuming engine is cold and you already did a couple oil changes.

Is that seem about right? 120 ft/lbs for the headstuds? the package they came with said 40-60- and end with 80ft/lbs? if thats the case do you think that may be a problem only being torqued to 80?
 
Is that seem about right? 120 ft/lbs for the headstuds? the package they came with said 40-60- and end with 80ft/lbs? if thats the case do you think that may be a problem only being torqued to 80?

The 40 60 80 are done with molylube that the arps came with but after some oil changes the molylube gets washed out. So now with engine oil it will take 120lb to equal 80lb with moly lube
 
if you put the moly lube on them when u install them initially....you dont go and retorque them to 120ft lbs "just because the moly lube went away"
 
120ft lbs is NOT right. It's like 60ft/lbs then 90* turn on stock headstuds IIRC. ARP are 88ft/lbs.
 
88 sounds good. i think when i did mine i just rounded to 90ft lbs
 
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