Hey guys here's a manifold that I built the other day. Looking for some feedback. Sorry for the shitty pictures--they don't do it too much justice

Looks awesome!!!

I wish I knew how to weld and had the money for a TIG welder...

wow that looks really good

flawless welds

I would add some bracing that goes from the flange on the turbo side to the flange at the head. With the weight of a turbo hanging on it it will be prone to crack if not supported.

soccerplayaz16 said:

I would add some bracing that goes from the flange on the turbo side to the flange at the head. With the weight of a turbo hanging on it it will be prone to crack if not supported.

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+1
with the weight of the turbo and a lot of heating and cooling it it could crack, i'd support with some additional bracing. Other than that, it looks great.....and those welds are beautiful.

Those welds do look good! There are a few spots that's look like you lost heat but they should still have decent penetration! As to the bracket you don't need one that supports the flanges as the downpipe is held up with a clamp to the block and 2 bolts so that's is more then enough to hold the weight, but I would add a small brace to the back of the 2 middle pipes to hold them together as they might start to spread apart! I'm doing level 2 in advanced engineering for fabrication and welding so I have to look at welds a lot and find faults! But yours look really good! As long as you use a brace to hold the inner 2 pipes together then you will be fine!

It could, but it wont . I've made a couple years ago and they've held up fine without bracing. Those had gt42's hanging off them too. Using the schedule 10 piping helps greatly, it's .109" thick.

That's plenty thick!!! I didn't even use that on mine and its lasted what 2-3 years now and its still going. its really just a precaution for the bracing! But as I said the downpipe bracket is plenty to hold any turbo .

Jack, your manifolds look amazing! Keep up the good work, you're currently #1 on my list for when I decide to go twin scroll, not sure whether I want t3 or t4 yet.

The flange seems a bit warped. The tubing is not equal by the looks. Welds look alright was the manifold back purged?

who cares its sick! it will work fine and it looks awesome too.

I just bought a tig yesterday the cheepo miller 165 to tackle my intercooler and hopefully some manifolds. where did you get the pipe and flanges?

Man i think it looks good. Dont let anyone Make you think it wont work. I really dont think the equal length thing will really matter . As long as you have it close it will be alot better then stock ect. Great welding ! As someone already asked was it back purged ?

Imback said:

The flange seems a bit warped. The tubing is not equal by the looks. Welds look alright was the manifold back purged?

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I knew someone would point that out! It's actually because the head flange has a chamfer in it on the edge and then tapers up towards the top stud hole. It's designed to look like that. However it is 100% flat


The runners are actually very close to one another in length. If you do the math on how "long" the 90 deg. bends are then you'll see they are longer than you think. Regardless, length doesn't matter on an open style manifold. I would be more concerned about flow and the angle of the collector.

I've found with proper technique that it's not necessary to back purge or a sch 10 manifold. I have done some caveman like testing (think BFH and a torch) to a properly welded joint with no back purging. Needless to say I wound up with a mangled piece of metal that looked like a burnt chinese dumpling, but the weld didn't crack .

danyz250f said:

who cares its sick! it will work fine and it looks awesome too.

I just bought a tig yesterday the cheepo miller 165 to tackle my intercooler and hopefully some manifolds. where did you get the pipe and flanges?

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Dan, the 165 is a nice machine for doing light aluminum and stainless work. Welding aluminum as much as you can will make you a very good stainless welder. It helps really get that rhythm down. I get my materials locally and direct from a trading supplier. However, I would recommend weirtech, JMF and SLS for flanges.

wast gate location? and i want to see it in the car

WG is right under the 1/2 runners. Reason for making the #1 runner a bit straighter allows me to fit a big old WG under if need be

bigjdog84 said:

WG is right under the 1/2 runners. Reason for making the #1 runner a bit straighter allows me to fit a big old WG under if need be

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Can we see a pic of the WG setup

Welds look good. Do you have pics of your torch setup? I'm curious how you reached down into the top of the collector. I just picked up a cheap tig machine to learn on.

I just use a gas lense with a big cup. And for tight to reach spots, just crank up the gas a little bit and pull your tungsten out.

Looks very good man

Woah those are great welds, I would love to know what Tig welder your using. I can lay pretty good beads on Sch.10 with a 165DC inverter, converted with a TIG torch and Argon/reg. but consistency isn't there. I might be buying a new welder for christmas so what are you using?
Thanks

That looks flawless! Great piece for sure. I'd buy it if I was able too. I'm sure other people would wink wink

Thanks for the comments guys!

Ecliptical, are you using the miller diversion 165? That should do you just fine for steel. The only thing is that it just doesn't have a whole lot of juice to do any thick aluminum. What are the details on your torch setup? Post some pictures of your welds and I can give you some pointers.

I would buy one

I bought one for a lot more than what they go for now. I'd get one ASAP before the price goes back up.