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Another Clutch issue....

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jayb903

15+ Year Contributor
99
4
Jul 19, 2007
Fayetteville, North_Carolina
Somebody please give me guidance.

I just finished doing 6-bolt swap awhile ago. Car shifted fine then.

Problem is I cannot get it to go into gear while running, but can when not running I can. I can grind it into reverse but I cannot even get it into anything thing else(1st,2d, etc).

Took trans down and everything looked fine and I bolted everything up. I still have same problem. I replaced M/c & S/c but to no avail. New TOB and flywheel setup. I adjusted the clutch and still nothing.

Shouldn't I be able to at the very least grind into the gears not only reverse?

I'm about to send to a shop b/c I don't really have time to mess with this anymore. :ohdamn:
 
check your clutch line brah. is the clutch working properly just not engaging or is it just sitting at the floor?
 
I know it is working plus I have bled it a thousand times it feels. No leaks along the line.
 
i know i had a clutch that did the same thing (6 puck). come to find out though, it was just a bad cast. after we had done all of the adjustments, bled the lines, checked the TOB, pivot ball and fork, etc., we took the tranny back off the car we took a really close look at it. we tried to get the disk to slide on the input shaft, and it wouldn't go on but like an inch or two.
 
Did you figure it out yet? I'm currently having the same issue with my car, New clutch, and F/W, new M/C & S/C. I have good pedal pressure but the car just wont go into gear. :confused:
 
Did you figure it out yet? I'm currently having the same issue with my car, New clutch, and F/W, new M/C & S/C. I have good pedal pressure but the car just wont go into gear. :confused:

If you haven't allready , change your clutch fork and pivot ball with some new OEM parts and it should solve the problem
 
If you haven't allready , change your clutch fork and pivot ball with some new OEM parts and it should solve the problem

Nope after getting frustrated I figured out it was the end of the master cylinder. The piece that connects to the clutch pedal was defective.. It put another one in and adjusted the rod now its good. I suggest the OP look into that as well and turn the adjustment rod all the way to the counter clockwise first then slowly make the adjustment clockwise until it feels right.
 
Nope after getting frustrated I figured out it was the end of the master cylinder. The piece that connects to the clutch pedal was defective.. It put another one in and adjusted the rod now its good. I suggest the OP look into that as well and turn the adjustment rod all the way to the counter clockwise first then slowly make the adjustment clockwise until it feels right.
Sorry for the late reply. I did replace my M/C as well and it is adjusted as far as i can go now(counter clockwise).

So this weekend hopefully I can drop the trans and replace fork and pivot ball as well as check the disk:(
 
Still nothing after replacing the Fork, Pivot, and TOB. I am at a lost because unless I'm not putting my transmission on correctly(x3) then I have no ideas on what to do.

If I can grind reverse but not get it into any other gear then is it a hydraulic pedal problem? Does Reverse require less movement of the fork in order to move? I know that sounds dumb but I am looking at everything.
 
Have someone look under the car while you press in the clutch. See if the transmission is moving at all. Did you remember the back bolt that goes above the transfer case? It goes in from the engine side and threads into the transmission.

If the transmission doesnt move, it has to be a pressure issue. That would lead me to believe it is either your master cylinder, slave cylinder, or your pedal assembly.
 
Have someone look under the car while you press in the clutch. See if the transmission is moving at all. Did you remember the back bolt that goes above the transfer case? It goes in from the engine side and threads into the transmission.

If the transmission doesnt move, it has to be a pressure issue. That would lead me to believe it is either your master cylinder, slave cylinder, or your pedal assembly.

Yea I bolted it up correctly. Back bolt and all. Now I'm figuring pedal issue. B/c everything else almost everything else is brand new.

How can I determine a bad pedal assembly?
 
Push in the clutch and let it back up by itself. Reach down with your hand and see if you can pull it back up at all. A little movement is huge. There shouldnt be any play at all. If you can pull it up a little your bushings are worn.

When mine went out, I went through shep to get mine done.
 
I know this post is a little old but not that old so I'm hopin ya'll can help me out on this one... As of late and I mean within the past week its been killin' me... It used to act up and not go in gear I'd have to either bleed the system or shut it off to get into gear from a dead stop but would shift normally throughout gears will driving. Now its become a matter of every time I stop the car and let it sit for about an hour I'll have to bleed it before I can drive off again and now more recently its been making a faint grinding noise when the pedel is depressed passed where the disengagement is made. Talking to a few tranny places in town I've been told that it could be a leak in the clutch line but looking under the car after depressing the clutch about 50 times theres nothing there. I got the extended slave rod because I had an ebay clutch in not too long before this new set up and I'm wondering if that rod is pushing the TOB too far or retracting the clutch into the PP??? Do either one of those sound possible? My buddy borrowed the car the other day and said he depresssed the clutch a bout 100x and saw a very small puddle near the reseviour *sp* area. I went ahead and bought a new S/C and SS clutch line... If neither of these work (should be installed tomorrow) what other suggestions short of pullin the tranny down do you guys have? Thanks
Dylan
 
I know this post is a little old but not that old so I'm hopin ya'll can help me out on this one... As of late and I mean within the past week its been killin' me... It used to act up and not go in gear I'd have to either bleed the system or shut it off to get into gear from a dead stop but would shift normally throughout gears will driving. Now its become a matter of every time I stop the car and let it sit for about an hour I'll have to bleed it before I can drive off again and now more recently its been making a faint grinding noise when the pedel is depressed passed where the disengagement is made. Talking to a few tranny places in town I've been told that it could be a leak in the clutch line but looking under the car after depressing the clutch about 50 times theres nothing there. I got the extended slave rod because I had an ebay clutch in not too long before this new set up and I'm wondering if that rod is pushing the TOB too far or retracting the clutch into the PP??? Do either one of those sound possible? My buddy borrowed the car the other day and said he depresssed the clutch a bout 100x and saw a very small puddle near the reseviour *sp* area. I went ahead and bought a new S/C and SS clutch line... If neither of these work (should be installed tomorrow) what other suggestions short of pullin the tranny down do you guys have? Thanks
Dylan

Couple things come to mind, the release bearings are different between the 4g64, 4g63t fwd and 4g63t awd. I had issues and come to find out the clutch kit came with the wrong release bearing.

But to me it sounds like you have an issue with the controls/hydraulics, not the clutch. Did you bench bleed the cylinder before installation? Is the restrictor still there? Pull back the boot on the slave cylinder. Now the master. Is there any fluid anywhere? (if there is, it's blown. This is what I'm leaning on) Check your pedal assembly. These cars are old, my pedal phenolic wear pad wore out and ground the clevis hole into an oblong shape, causing travel loss.

Above all: DO NOT FEEL FOR LEAKS WHILE SOMEONE PUSHES THE PEDAL (PRESSURIZED SYSTEM). YOU CAN LOSE YOUR FINGERS--It has happened to someone on my job working on a hydraulic circuit breaker. The fluid can pierce your skin enter your bloodstream.
 
New slave cyl in today without the longer slave rod and it seems to be a little better as far as not making the noise, however its disengaging like... Maybe 2 inches off the floor whereas with the longer slave rod is was right in the middle.. How do you adjust the clutch pedal itself and see if there are any signs of it having bad bushings? Also I noticed a sliiiight leak from the clutch line right where it bolted to the Clutch master cyl so I went ahead and ran my new SS clutch line... No leaks... However there was every bit of ease when I removed the S/c to push the rod into the cyl with the fluid still in and old lines ran.. I dunno if that could have been my issue with having to bleed it before driving but now its just the pedal adjustment and then I wanna make sure its not making that noise.. I just dunno how to adjust the pedal :( Can someone give me some detailed directions? Alos.. Upon start up my belt squeeled like crap and car died out... It appears that my alternator tension set up isnt working (bolt through alt with nut and washer) is there another secure way I can keep tension on it for now til I find somewhere that sells the alt tensioner?
 
Couple things come to mind, the release bearings are different between the 4g64, 4g63t fwd and 4g63t awd. I had issues and come to find out the clutch kit came with the wrong release bearing.

The throwout bearing is definitely different for 4G64 2.4L cars -- MD722744

But the throwout bearing is the same for all 4G63's -- MD749998

But to me it sounds like you have an issue with the controls/hydraulics, not the clutch. Did you bench bleed the cylinder before installation? Is the restrictor still there? Pull back the boot on the slave cylinder. Now the master. Is there any fluid anywhere? (if there is, it's blown. This is what I'm leaning on) Check your pedal assembly. These cars are old, my pedal phenolic wear pad wore out and ground the clevis hole into an oblong shape, causing travel loss.

Above all: DO NOT FEEL FOR LEAKS WHILE SOMEONE PUSHES THE PEDAL (PRESSURIZED SYSTEM). YOU CAN LOSE YOUR FINGERS--It has happened to someone on my job working on a hydraulic circuit breaker. The fluid can pierce your skin enter your bloodstream.

The pressure levels from this system aren't too extreme, though I would agree with you that "feeling" for leaks should only be done with the system not under pressure for your own personal safety.


The issue definitely is an adjustment issue, or a hydraulic system issue though.


As for Project1G's latest question - clutch pedal adjustment:
http://www.4g63turbo.com/tech/eclipse-clutch-adjustment.html

From Road Race Engineering:
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Notes: Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster rod and you'll be able to rotate the rod by hand. If getting the right free play off the floor makes it so that you loose the free play at the top of the pedal travel, you will need to adjust the upper travel stop. The upper travel stop is the cruise control switch.

More helpful information:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

Further helpful information:
http://www.automotivearticles.com/123/Clutch_Operation_Explained.shtml
 
Ok, I've adjusted the pedel, now when fully disengaged its still making the slight grinding noise... No clue.. I've never had this problem before but then again this is a new to my car trans with 30k on it.... Any other suggestions?
By the way theres at most 1k miles on clutch press. plate and TOB
 
You could be over-extending the pressure plate causing the fingers to hit the clutch disk hub. Adjust the master cylinder rod away from the firewall towards the driver-seat.
 
ANOTHER UPDATE! ... This one is bad...
Re-adjusted clutch pedal and CMC rod, drove around for a few hours. It was like sex when I shifted.. Pure extacy.

Tragedy struck as I went into first at a red light and stalled out... I did the WTF? looked around and made sure I was in first and as I went to start it up it pulled the car with it.. Now that was sign number one I should have stopped driving But I had to get home so going into second no RPM drop when I hit the clutch.. It appears now that my clutch DOES NOT disengage however, there is plenty of pressure behind the pedal. I really need some help on this one guys... Let me know what you think.. And yes I bled both the S/C and the CMC ... Theres no leaks so I can't see it as air in there, after bleeding still nothing... I'm losing my mind on this car.
 
You could be over-extending the pressure plate causing the fingers to hit the clutch disk hub. Adjust the master cylinder rod away from the firewall towards the driver-seat.

This may sound dumb but if trying to throw into gear slowly wouldn't it still engage just way too early?

ANOTHER UPDATE! ... This one is bad...
Re-adjusted clutch pedal and CMC rod, drove around for a few hours. It was like sex when I shifted.. Pure extacy.

Tragedy struck as I went into first at a red light and stalled out... I did the WTF? looked around and made sure I was in first and as I went to start it up it pulled the car with it.. Now that was sign number one I should have stopped driving But I had to get home so going into second no RPM drop when I hit the clutch.. It appears now that my clutch DOES NOT disengage however, there is plenty of pressure behind the pedal. I really need some help on this one guys... Let me know what you think.. And yes I bled both the S/C and the CMC ... Theres no leaks so I can't see it as air in there, after bleeding still nothing... I'm losing my mind on this car.

Flywheel Step?
 
The only problem is that EVERY bit of that part of the motor was replaced all at the same time.. It is an exedy chromoly flywheel and a ZOOM stage 3 clutch/ PP set up... I could understand that if everything was older, and if it were slowly failing at a more gradual rate but last night the car was just fine, held up and everything with a tromendousness.. Just today it failed horribly, picked up my buddy and everything was just fine.. Went to start the car and back up and thats when it stopped goin into gear.
 
Took it to my local transmission guy, he'll have it out tomorrow and tell me for sure what I need... Other than a new starter and probably a new flywheel :( He suggested that a spring retainer in the clutch had broke off and lodged into the fork on the flywheel, however he agreed that the fulcrom ball and the release fork may be the cause, he said for 2k miles the step heigh shouldn't be that worn down unless it was the clutches fault.. Hopefully I'll know tomorrow though.
 
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