The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

What engine Oil do i use for a freshly rebuilt turbo motor

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GSX-911

10+ Year Contributor
49
1
Oct 27, 2010
Oak Lawn, Illinois
Every part internally has been changed to aftermarket and its now .40 bored over. Just wondering what oil do i use for initial start up and when should i change it the first time, and to what oil should i use the 2nd time i change it? Also do i just drive it normally to "break it in"? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I use walmart, or any other cheap oil for break in. It gets changed 3-4 times in the first 100 miles. You want to load and unload the engine, going to progressively higher rpm's. It takes about 5-10 miles to have an engine broke in. Ask any shop that builds engines, and has a dyno how they break them in.
 
i just installed a engine from slow boy racing and they said to use like 40 weight oil. Just the cheapest you can find. I believe they said to run the car in neutral at 3000 rpms for 20 minutes or so and blip the throttle every once and then. This helps to seat the rings and get out any crud out of the engine. After that period you want to let the engine cool and change the oil and filter. Cheap oil and filters will do. I think they have another step after this one before switching to whatever oil you normally use. Do not use synthetic oil. I think the second portion of the break in had to do with driving the car down the road doing part throttle pulls and not getting on the breaks but just letting the car decelerate. Something about helping seat the rings. Anyone else feel free to chime in as this is just what i have been told by slow boy and will be doing this weekend.
 
Everyone has their own opinion about how to break in a motor and which oil to use and what not. The way I have done it was I used regular oil, not synthetic! I drove around the city varying rpm's and engine braking. I changed my oil at 25, 100 miles and again at 500 miles and then 3000. Some people take it nice and easy and some people go the "moto man" way.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
 
Read the link posted above.

Use a cheap filter and cheap 30 or 40 weight oil.

Let the car idle until up to normal temp. Then take the car out and do a few hard 2nd and 3rd gear pulls. This doesn't mean go tach it out and do burn outs.
If you build a lot of engines and do compression test on the ones that were broke in easy vs broke in hard, you will see the ones broke in easy have lower compression.

Here is a very accurate quote from the link above.

The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
 
I used 10w30 conventional oil with the lucas break in additive first two oil changes then 10w40 with regualr lucas I have about 500 on the new motor feels good power wise have good compression just don't use synthetic till atleast 3000 miles or so
 
The real key is cheap and non-synthetic oil. No reason to spend a ton on it when you're just gonna be changing it often.
 
DON'T use Royal Purple, I made that mistake on my Supra, the thing NEVER broke in properly.:ohdamn:
 
There is also a break in additive available from Lucas Oil. I'd HIGHLY recommend it, as it adds back the Zinc that has been "removed" from conventional "street" oils.
 
^

We have the Lucas zinc additive as well, but it sells for $11.95, but it's not a great seller as it's actually cheaper than to buy five quarts of Brad Penn Break-In Oil than to buy five quarts of cheap oil and the Lucas additive.
 
I threw castrol in mine and launched it out of the garage, if it doesn't hold up now it won't hold up later. I'm jk LOL but I used castrol 10w30 and whetever lucas assembly lube was in there from putting it together. Alot I'd say.
 
so let it warm up and for how long should it sit there when its completely warmed up? and how many miles before I change the oil the first time?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top