Some of these posts in here are not informative at all. Turn down the boost as stated above, make sure you have stock base timing, and run stock timing maps if youve ####ed with anything and go from there.

VETTE_50_TH said:

Im going to say your base timing needs to be checked.

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@ VETTE_50... when I checked the timing at the crank with the the timing marks on the cams pointing directly at each other. I noticed the crank timing mark was passed the "T" on the timing cover. The timing cover has 15*,10*,5* and "T" on the timing cover. what Im saying is the pointer was In front of the "T" and off the timing scale. All the marks seem to line up so I truly dont know whats going on

You have a stock 95 7 bolt?

VETTE_50_TH said:

You have a stock 95 7 bolt?

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Yes, its stock except for the cams..

So i read in another thread your timing was off? How was it off?

why is it my Evo316g flows more at the same psi level than your 20g?

97-gst said:

why is it my Evo316g flows more at the same psi level than your 20g?

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because the last log you posted here a few weeks ago show a very uncalibrated MAF and inflated airflow readings because of it.

I bet if took some BPR8ES's or BR8ES's and gapped them to .020, that 3 to 5 degrees of knock will disappear.

I can run 31-32psi on 93 octane with maybe 1 degree of knock every now and then. 14-15 degrees of timing.

BrokenTsi said:

because the last log you posted here a few weeks ago show a very uncalibrated MAF and inflated airflow readings because of it.

I bet if took some BPR8ES's or BR8ES's and gapped them to .020, that 3 to 5 degrees of knock will disappear.

I can run 31-32psi on 93 octane with maybe 1 degree of knock every now and then. 14-15 degrees of timing.

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So, you think its the spark plugs? I changed from the BPR6 to Bpr7 gapped at .023 and I still have knock. I think its my timing at the crank.. I tried aligning the dot on the crank sprocket to the so call pointer on the block and it seemed dead on but when I would put the harmonic balancer back on with the cam and balance shaft aligned the balancer was in front of the "T" (off the scale). So I moved the crank one tooth back and installed everything and now it points to the "T" and the car runs much better now.

Its worth a shot. Gap them tighter at like .020 and use BPR8's. I had knock issues and it cleared it up for me.

BrokenTsi said:

Its worth a shot. Gap them tighter at like .020 and use BPR8's. I had knock issues and it cleared it up for me.

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Ok, I reset the timing by moving the crank 1 tooth retarded and now the car runs much better and the balancer is lined up with the "T" on the timing tab... I replaced my plugs with BR8ES cause after examing the BPR8ES, They seemed to stick out further into the combustion chamber then the BR8ES. I will be testing these sparkplugs and I hope my knock issues are gone forever!

97-gst said:

why is it my Evo316g flows more at the same psi level than your 20g?

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I really doubt your EVO 3 16g could flow like a Hanh Race Craft super 20g and be super efficient. Remember, Im having issues with my car right now. My timing is at 6 degrees Wide open throttle with only 20lbs of boost and I know my acceleration is suffering because of the low timing. I believe if my timing could move up to the 17 degree range with about 25lbs of boost my new problem would be traction on this Gst..

im geting 6 degrees of timing at wot under only 8 psi so feel fortunate.

I thought I'd post what my buschur 20g with my mod list here is doing at the moment,

98 gsx, A/T 6 bolt, bse, MM oil filter, manley rods, .020 O 9:5:1 mahle forge pistons, magnus HBG, Injen Intake hacked maf, 3000gt 60mm TB, Apexi N1 31/2" Ex, NGK Plug Wires, 2g coilpack, rre rewire, pte 880 FI, 255 FP,AFPR, 20g buschur P&C turbo, OBX v2 ExMani, street gate EW with, kiggly A/T adapter for 2g, ets FMIC, ssq hks bov, hallman mbc, roadsurge DIY paddle shifter . Trans gauge & cooler, Arp head studs, OEM HG,sodium valves, LC1 WB, fluid dampener UP, 546/547 web cams, bpr7es ngk .017

It almost feels like the higher I can push the timing, it creates a scavaging type effect allowing the turbo to push more air at a lower boost level, but it may just be wishfull thinking.

I personally think NJDAEWOO, you need to richen it up to a 10:9 area, and your knock would more than likely stop.

KeelesKustome said:

I personally think NJDAEWOO, you need to richen it up to a 10:9 area, and your knock would more than likely stop.

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I have an HTA68 with a 10:1cr motor and with sunoco94 I'm able to run 8* at peak tq and have it ramp up to 13* by 8K with 26psi. I run an AFR of 10.8:1. I have yet to see any knock at all, but havent got aggressive with the tune either. Someone mentioned plugs earlier, fwiw I'm running BR8ES gapped to 0.020"

With meth I unhook the WG and just let the HTA68 do its thing.