So, giving a little update.

Drove a long trip and ended up having some strange issues where the car would stall and die on the highway. It would cool off for 15-20 min., start up again, then a minute later same thing. Talked to a friend who suggested coilpacks. I limped to a nearby Autozone, who happened to have them at $100 per piece and I needed two... doh!

Anyway, car drove again after, but not as well. It started almost stalling at idle and was really rough. I checked the O2 sensor voltage and was now at 5V! Well, I decided to get a new primary O2, which I bought an NGK. Replaced that and now it idles fine again, just still has what seems a few misses. I cleaned the plugs after changing coils and rechecked them again, which they look fine. I'm also getting a new MAF as I had this "missing" issue before too, so I'll see if that fixes the idle and sort of poor performance I've been getting (doesn't really pull as hard as I feel it should at 20psi). It also seemed to pull harder before all this coilpack crap, so it makes me wonder if the new coils have anything to do with it...

Also, I managed to get the LC-1 working. Seems the connector for the O2 sensor isn't holding tight, so when it disconnects it corrupts the unit. I got it to sit in the cabin, so it vibrates less and it appears to be working. So, I got the AFRs to match to the ECU pretty close. I had the >100 load set to 10.5, and at WOT it would fluctuate between 10.2 and 10.7. Also, when I let off the throttle, the wideband tends to go a little crazy and the AFRs go over 20 (I've seen like 50-80 appear quickly??) and fluctuate pretty wildly until I touch the throttle a little, then it goes back to 13-15. Again, I'm wondering if the MAF is throwing things off.

After I get the new MAF I'm going to try to confirm the scaling and check the trims to hopefully get everything calibrated finally.

Thats very normal for the O2 sensor to go off the scale on de-cel.

Also, when I let off the throttle, the wideband tends to go a little crazy and the AFRs go over 20 (I've seen like 50-80 appear quickly??) and fluctuate pretty wildly until I touch the throttle a little, then it goes back to 13-15.

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This is normal. Upon deceleration(lifting off throttle) the ecu cuts fuel, so it will read very lean.

Once you get back on the throttle, or rpm drop into the idle range, AFRs should go back to normal.


The Front O2 should never read 5v. It is a 0-1v output device. Could your original possible been damaged. I've messed them up before trying to get them out of stuck O2 Housing.

Our stock coils are very good, and should be able to handle boost until the low 30s psi. Make sure your plugs aren't fouled, they can foul quickly and cause all sorts of problems similar to what you are describing.

I was having a problem with my fuel trims last night. I was logging to see what my low trim was at and it was maxing out at -12.5, but my idle feels fine and my AFR's are bang on around 14.7 and my O2 voltage is fluctuating between 0.1 and 0.9 like it should. I adjusted the injector latency and got the low trim to around +3 but it was idling at about 12.5 AFR. Should I just ignore my bad fuel trim or what? Also, I removed my rear O2 sensor to mak way for my LC-1 and I can get the heater malfunction CEL to go away. Any tips on that? FYI I had the O2 sensor out when I passed inspection a week ago but it wasn't un-plugged and it was heating up under my seat. Now its unplugged and the CEL won't go away.

streetdsmpwr said:

I was having a problem with my fuel trims last night. I was logging to see what my low trim was at and it was maxing out at -12.5, but my idle feels fine and my AFR's are bang on around 14.7 and my O2 voltage is fluctuating between 0.1 and 0.9 like it should. I adjusted the injector latency and got the low trim to around +3 but it was idling at about 12.5 AFR. Should I just ignore my bad fuel trim or what? Also, I removed my rear O2 sensor to mak way for my LC-1 and I can get the heater malfunction CEL to go away. Any tips on that? FYI I had the O2 sensor out when I passed inspection a week ago but it wasn't un-plugged and it was heating up under my seat. Now its unplugged and the CEL won't go away.

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It is best to report the CEL number(ex. P0136) as there can be multiple CELs for a piece of equipment, or multiple equipments can effect one CEL.

For the Rear O2, try setting Perphery2 bits 1, 2, and 3 to 0.
(Use + and - keys)



AFRs are more important then Trims, but they should both be good.

The Fuel Trims take 4 cycles to fully adjust, and one cycle takes four minutes. So let the car idle for 16 minutes to let the Low Fuel Trim adjust.

Also you should reset the ecu after making big changes to the injector settings.
(Disconnect battery, then turn on headlight switch to drain residual power. Wait a minute or so then reconnect. All Trims should equal zero if properly reset.)

Getting Fuel Trims perfect is impossible, but + or - 5% is a good goal.

Remember to wait 16 minutes between changes for your Trim reading.

Ceddy said:

It is best to report the CEL number(ex. P0136) as there can be multiple CELs for a piece of equipment, or multiple equipments can effect one CEL.

For the Rear O2, try setting Perphery2 bits 1, 2, and 3 to 0.
(Use + and - keys)



AFRs are more important then Trims, but they should both be good.

The Fuel Trims take 4 cycles to fully adjust, and one cycle takes four minutes. So let the car idle for 16 minutes to let the Low Fuel Trim adjust.

Also you should reset the ecu after making big changes to the injector settings.
(Disconnect battery, then turn on headlight switch to drain residual power. Wait a minute or so then reconnect. All Trims should equal zero if properly reset.)

Getting Fuel Trims perfect is impossible, but + or - 5% is a good goal.

Remember to wait 16 minutes between changes for your Trim reading.

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Well I logged the low trim for over 20 minutes, it started at -5.8 and went to --12.5 after 8 minutes. I just looked at the log and for some reason it only logged for 9 minutes, so I guess I should try it again. Also, I made a lot of changes to the injectors without reseting the ecu so that my be one of my problems.

As for the CEL, I don't have a code reader, but my friend does so I have to borrow that from him. I tried turning a few bits to 0, but no luck. When I originally removed the sensor after installing the wideband we read the code, but I forget what it was.

Thanks for the advise.

How do you guys get this open just to look over the tuning system its self. I down loaded every thing the hex files, the evo scan, data logging etc version 1.9. Again I am not trying to flash an ecu I am just trying to open it on my pc so I can look over how to use it, what it offer etc! Any help would be great.
Dan

black91awdturbo said:

How do you guys get this open just to look over the tuning system its self. I down loaded every thing the hex files, the evo scan, data logging etc version 1.9. Again I am not trying to flash an ecu I am just trying to open it on my pc so I can look over how to use it, what it offer etc! Any help would be great.
Dan

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if you have a copy of ECUflash downloaded and you got the ROM and defination files from Ceddy's web page then you have everything you need to open it up and take a look. just put the 20550011.XML in the eclipse definition folder of ecuflash and open ecuflash.

Edit*
I got the ecu flash thanks for the tip Mike, but it says there is a problem reading the Rom. Any help you could give me there would be great.

google search my friend, google search... a link to it should also be in the verry first post of this thread...
ECU flash

edit... make sure you un zip the ecu definition file that you got from Ceddy into the approperate folder under the main ECUflash folder (I.E. c:/program files/open ecu/ecuflash/definitions/eclipse/...) if you have ECUflash open when you do this then you will have to close the program and re-open it to be able to read the file.

Mike I got the Ecu flash, but it says the Rom cant be read any ideas there?

Ok so I was having the same problem as a user on here, the Rom was not down loading right in google chrome. I went and did it again in explorer and it works like a charm.

I tried the other night to run the car on speed density and it quite didnt work, I was only using a 3 bar map and no intake temp sensor. maybe thats why it didnt work.

But i was wondering, is there any adjustment needed to be done or settings to change in ecu flash if i run both sonsor GM style?
As far as i understand the ROM is already loaded with correct settings for the GM sonsors.

so....my question is... Do i just take out my MAF, wire in the 2 GM sensors and that's it? it would work?

seriously? no one has the answer?

I'm gonna be reflashing my 99 ecu what all do I need? Do I need a Tactrix#Openport#2.0 with OBD2#Extension#Cable and Mitsubishi#Reflash#Connector? Does the Tactrix 3-Port Boost Control Solenoid work also so I can control the boost?

You need the 2.0 Tactrix cable and ecuflash which can be downloaded at openecu.org. Also a logger such as evoscan v2.7 would be very helpful for tuning. The 1.3, 1.3u and 1.3r cables will all log off the 98 ecu, not sure if they will flash though.

Okay so just the cable I don't need the open port? I know I have to download evoflash and evo scan

Openport is the name of it. You need ECUflash and EVOscan, and then the 2.0 cable.

So do I need to purchase the mitubishi reflash connector, along with the tactrix openport 2.0 cable, or just the openport cable? And do i need a sd card?

You need the flash connector as well as the cable, but you do not need an SD card unless you want to log without a laptop.

Okay cool thanks

Ok guys I'm confused as to what exactly needs to happen to make this work on a 97. I have a 99 ecu in my 97, and I've looked at the pin that ceddy sells on his page, but are there instructions or anything on how to do this? I know almost nothing about this, so I'm looking for some advice. Thanks.

sax_man said:

Ok guys I'm confused as to what exactly needs to happen to make this work on a 97. I have a 99 ecu in my 97, and I've looked at the pin that ceddy sells on his page, but are there instructions or anything on how to do this? I know almost nothing about this, so I'm looking for some advice. Thanks.

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I went through the exact same thing last week man, still updating my threads/contacting ppl on my results.


Anyways, this is the method I went. I bought a openport 2.0 and the 98/99 Mitsu reflash cable off of tactrix. (Round $190 shipped) Also bought a 98 gsx ecu. Still researching but I believe there are only certain 98/99 ecus that are flashable. To tell, you have to open the ecu up and look at the code known as the "PCB code" I your PCB code doesnt match the compatible codes you wont be able to flash it. (Some/all of the flash compatible codes are in the ceddymods thread around page 12)

Once you have a flashable ecu and an openport/relash cable, what I did is I cut the pin from the reflash connector as its too big and attached a wire with a smaller pin that will it into your Ecu connector (pin 79) that pin and the wire attached is what Ceddy sells. You just push the little pin into the appropriate slot and it will "click" right in.

Also note the pins that will it are really hard to obtain. I tried for about 3 days looking for one that would fit and no go (Autozone/Pepboys etc etc) I ended up heading to the local pull apart and cutting the ecu connectors out o a 93 Dodge stealth SOHC and they fitted my 97-99 connector (the 95-96 are a different style, 97-99 pins wont fit as Ceddy has noted.) I have about 30 pins left over .

Thats really it. The rest is documented well at the beginning of this thread. Theres also alot of threads on evolutionm.net that covers ECUlash well. Heres a picture of my setup in this thread to get a better visual. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...8-ecuflash-wont-write-98-ecu-help-please.html Any question LMK.

hey guys, i have 95gst im trying to run a 98 programable ecu. i have already switched the wires at the ecu, and my plug wires to 3-4-1-2 (i think thats it) do i also need to swap my injector plugs also???? my car is only running on 2 cylinders and im trying to make sure i have my ecu hooked up correctly after a small build...

What wires at the ecu did you switch? if your talking about the cas sensor, I suggest you switch to the 1g cas since no one has really mastered code for the 95-96 sensor yet.

Try swapping your plug wires back also.

dnhieu said:

hey guys, i have 95gst im trying to run a 98 programable ecu. i have already switched the wires at the ecu, and my plug wires to 3-4-1-2 (i think thats it) do i also need to swap my injector plugs also???? my car is only running on 2 cylinders and im trying to make sure i have my ecu hooked up correctly after a small build...

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you should do one or the other. either swap plugs or swap pins. otherwise if you do both you are canceling out each other. i would suggest swapping the plug wires back if you already did the ecu pin swap.