You need to tune your airflow tables. That explains why you're taking away SOO much fuel. How are your fuel trims?

Any by "maf translator dialed in"... Are you compensating airflow using the translator AT ALL??

That thing should be 100% ZERO'D OUT, ie not affecting your fuel trims, and you need to be tuning SOLELY with dsmlink. It's bad enough the GM maf is so inaccurate, let along to be confusing your ECU more by adjusting the incoming airflow signals.

I cant seem to be able to display your AEMWB in the log. But your fuel sliders tell me that something is WAY out of whack. Also, your deadtime is super high. I have 1450cc injectors and they arent even THAT high.

MAFT is set for 450cc injectors, other than that everything is set to zero.
a/f ratio at WOT 10.9 or so
I have aem wideband but i have no clue why it has never showed up in the logs
How should i adjust the airflow?
I raised deadtime to try and lean it out some

97-gst said:

MAFT is set for 450cc injectors, other than that everything is set to zero.
a/f ratio at WOT 10.9 or so
I have aem wideband but i have no clue why it has never showed up in the logs
How should i adjust the airflow?
I raised deadtime to try and lean it out some

Click to expand...

Thats not what deadtime is for. Put it back to whats recommended for your injectors for now.

You have your sliders leaned WAY out, probably because of your deadtime or a major boost leak.

Your boostest is pretty high. Way higher than your actual boost. Since youre on 2g maf, it kinda tells me you probably have a big boost leak and you're compensating using the fuel sliders.

Do another boostleak test. It should hold boost for a while on your gauge and very slowly bleed off.

Your tune is way out of whack, real bad. We can help you get it right.

BrokenTsi said:

Thats not what deadtime is for. Put it back to whats recommended for your injectors for now.

You have your sliders leaned WAY out, probably because of your deadtime or a major boost leak.

Your boostest is pretty high. Way higher than your actual boost. Since youre on 2g maf, it kinda tells me you probably have a big boost leak and you're compensating using the fuel sliders.

Do another boostleak test. It should hold boost for a while on your gauge and very slowly bleed off.

Your tune is way out of whack, real bad. We can help you get it right.

Click to expand...

I thought he was on a GM MAF and a MAF-T?

In his profile, he says he is running a 3in GM Maf

i am running 3 inch gm maf with a maftranslator

My bad, I must have missed the fact you have a translator.

I run the integrated GM maf cable, so my setting in v3 says "3in gm maf" not "stock" like yours.

If this is the case, then I'm 100% positive its because your maf is not calibrated.

v3mafadjcombft [ECMTuning - wiki] and watch all these videos:

ECMTuning, Inc.

Do this after you have confirmed that there are no boost leaks.

My recommendation to you is to watch all these videos several times.
Check your base fuel pressure, reset your fuel settings to whats recommended for your brand/size injectors and do the process to calibrate your MAf.

DSMlink MAS/MAF Calibration Page This will help with WOT calibration after you got the MAF calibrated for cruising conditions.

If you could, I'd like to see an idle log. About 2 or 3 minutes of closed loop idle.


When its all said and done, you should never have to touch the fuel sliders or timing tables. That is all done thru the DA tables. Trust me, its 10x better then using the sliders.

Agreed, your tune is FUBAR'd. It would be better for you to reset to stock maps, and start from scratch in this point. Make sure you start with calibrating your GM maf AFTER you make certain there are no boost leaks between it and your engine.

i ran my mhi evo III on stock internals for 2 years at 28-32 psi DD, never had a problem, moving the boost controller hose closer to the TB without turning down the boost killed mine when it shot to 42 psi.

I was driving my carf earlier and the CEL came on so after i got home i checked it. Fuel trim malfunction- so i cleared the code and made a 60 secomd log of my car from start up and idle

I give up.

i reset it all and tried to start over, i honestly still dont understand how to properly tune my airflow. I just dont get it. I tried adjusting my MAFcomp then way it shows but it still doesnt really help it
Did the CEL come on because its too rich, and will being too rich cause my motor to go boom?

If you cant figure it out you need to find someone that can or your inability to tune will make the motor go boom. Your car is pig rich just from what you've said your a/f's are. You need to start from scratch, zero everything out and go from there.