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420a Race Car NEW SET UP for ZERO

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This sucks. I reccomended him for the featured member, he gets it, and he hasn't even been online since March. He must be deployed or something. He hasn't even been on his Myspace since March....this better not turn into a "Defiant, where are you?" thread. Either way.... When he gets back from his hiatus, he better put some mad seat time down with plenty of video. We all have our expectations now.

On another note...I thought it was funny that no one's cared about this since March...Your welcome Rob.:D
 
He sent this to me a couple months ago I guess it would answer your question to where he is at !!!!!!

yea all the tracks up here are closed for the winter which sucks for me but i might be going back to iraq in FEB. SOOOooooo Godd luck to ya bro
 
That's a nice car. You went from a 40R to a CT572. Journal or TBB? Either way that's a pretty big jump in turbo and should put down quite a bit more power. What's your HP goal and how much boost do you plan to run?
 
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Good luck with that. Liquid to Air IC's use a different style core. You can weld on some tanks to the front and back of it to run water through where the air would normally hit the front of your core BUT, The Water Passages on a true Liquid to Air are smaller than that of the air passages. If you use a Air to Air core, you will lose efficiency. Here's a good link for a real one: Air to Water Intercooler

The website looks like something from the early 90's but their products are quality. They kind of explain why the Liquid to Air differs from the Air to Air but don't go into the science of it. You would think that the more water you can shove through the IC the better, right? Nope, because it's the water's heat absorbing qualities that you want, if you keep shoving the water passed the fins too fast, it won't have the time to evaporate to cool everything down. That's basically how it works. The cold water hits the hot fins and evaporates, dissipating the heat back to the Ice Box.

An Air to Air core will work but it won't be as efficient, as it won't be able to bring temp below ambient, which is why you want the Liquid to Air in the first place, right? Better than 100% efficiency? As much as I would like to discourage you from beating me with my own setup, that fact is obviously inevitable. So, I'll try to help instead. Here's to you beating Hahn's record this year.:applause: You've got the car to do it.

If the passages through a Air to Air are larger than a Water to Air, wouldn't that make the water travel through the passages slower....
 
Zero's having a tough time getting to the internet, so he asked if I could post up the latest since people are asking;

Current new power level 737whp

Current 1/4 mile time 11.1@145 (yeah, that's not a typo)

So with that trap, as soon as he see's a little more seat time, we should be seeing a new record past the 10.87 time.

Next hopeful track day would be the second week of September.

MB
 
Zero's having a tough time getting to the internet, so he asked if I could post up the latest since people are asking;

Current new power level 737whp

Current 1/4 mile time 11.1@145 (yeah, that's not a typo)

So with that trap, as soon as he see's a little more seat time, we should be seeing a new record past the 10.87 time.

Next hopeful track day would be the second week of September.

MB


Wheres the vid's at ???????:ohdamn:
 
I hate to love Zero....I'll catch him....gimme a year....1 effin' year....

If the passages through a Air to Air are larger than a Water to Air, wouldn't that make the water travel through the passages slower....

No, the larger the passages, the faster the water will travel through it. More space, more water, faster flow. You want to water to stay on the fins long enough to evaporate, not just pass over the fins.

You would think that the more water you can shove through the IC the better, right? Nope, because it's the water's heat absorbing qualities that you want, if you keep shoving the water passed the fins too fast, it won't have the time to evaporate to cool everything down. That's basically how it works. The cold water hits the hot fins and evaporates, dissipating the heat back to the Ice Box.

An Air to Air core will work but it won't be as efficient, as it won't be able to bring temp below ambient, which is why you want the Liquid to Air in the first place, right? Better than 100% efficiency?

I explained the reasoning behind it already.
 
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Where the vids at..??? kinda hard to believe if there is no vids or pics of 11.1 @145 Not saying I don't would just like to see them.
 
U dropped a valve already dam that blows what springs and retainers were u using I'm gettin close with mine just got a bit more things to finish up
In talking with Zero, he may not have dropped a valve. He may have done the same thing that I did at one time with the 420a turbo; he may have dropped a seat. It didn't go on an over-rev and he had good valves, springs and set-up (btw Zero SEND ME THAT CARD :cry: ), he had no timing belt problems and the seat was popped out as well. Without actually looking at the damage and assesssing, its hard to say for sure, but it makes me wonder about the seat.

MB
 
Subscribed.

Been a while since I stopped in and wanted to see how far the 420a has come. Keep it up and hopefully get that car going again soon.
 
It dosent look like Rob didn't get his car finished after the issue to my knowlege. Cause trust me fixing things on these cars is exspensive Race season is done for the year here and I bearly just got my injector dynamics id2000s through ups today now I got to slap them in and park it for the rest of the season and finish my yes hondahhh k24 civic turbo coupe I've Also been working on while working on my Rst eclipse so I'll definetly be out next season and I will drive it daily not to just the track Its just a 420a gotta love the under dawg engines
 
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