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Can't put car in gear...

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ClassicalBor

15+ Year Contributor
158
1
Feb 9, 2006
Baltimore, Maryland
I had my clutch master and slave cylinders replaced a little over a week ago, because they were getting old and I was having rough shifting/grinding into some gears. Original Thought - Clutch not fully disengaging.

Now i've noticed my clutch slipping throughout the gears, and after enough driving, it wont go into gear at ALL unless I start my car in gear.


When I first get in the car in the morning the pedal is nice and soft and shifts almost flawlessly, and engages pretty close to the floor. After driving it for a while, the pressure in the clutch pedal builds up and becomes VERY VERY heavy, and clutch engagement changes to be at the very top of the pedals play.

This is when I notice the clutch start to slip. If I keep driving and come to a complete stop, eventually I wont be able to get my car into gear at all unless I slam it into gear, or turn off the car and restart with it in gear, but even then I cant sometimes get it out of gear or shift to 2nd.

Is it possible that I just need to have the clutch master cylinder bled and readjusted? I feel like theres too much hydraulic pressure and the slave cylinder cant effectively push the clutch fork.

I did do a search and read on some possibilities such as: "If you have to press hard on the pedal, there may be something wrong. Sticking or binding in the pedal linkage, cable, cross shaft, or pivot ball are common causes. Sometimes a blockage or worn seals in the hydraulic system can also cause a hard clutch."

Thought im not sure what the cross shaft/pivot ball are, are they all just parts of the pedal assembly, or do I have a more serious Problem?

(Clutch has 31,000 miles on it, high performance, I think 2,100 lb pressure plate).
 
Hey guys, I know a few other people are battling the same problem I had so, as promised, here is the picture of my broken Clutch Release Fork. Because one whole side of it broke off (obviously its true they do not bend, they just break) the fork actually turned sideways somewhat every time the clutch pedal was depressed. So the clutch was not fully disengaging and caused rough shifting/grinding. Also because of this the Throwout Bearing was warped as well. I did not take a picture but that certainly didnt help anything either.

If anyone else has a similar problem also look back at my previous picture of my slave cylinder, you can notice the clutch fork appears to actually be crooked sideways there too. I hope this helps anyone who may be diagnosing a broken clutch fork or other clutch problem.
 

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I didnt think it was that gnarly! haha, nah I know whatcha mean. Its a part i'll save too for bad memories. I had to replace the TOB also of course which is fine considering they are cheap. But synchros and clutch were fine! And this thing honestly must have been slowly on its way out for a while because my clutch pedal had been pretty tight, tighter than usual for a while... but I didnt notice that until I got this replaced. Feels like a brand new car honestly.

I had a DSM/Evo specific shop tuner do it for me, gave me a good price and he knows his stuff.
 
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