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HX35 install, DIY manifold, dp, intake, bypass oil feed

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dumb question and ### correct me if im wrong.. but with that big of a drain line, the turbo would not be able to hold any oil.. if you had any restriction on the feed line, it would not supply enough oil for the turbo. mainly because it would exit faster than it is supplied..

like i said ### correct me if i am wrong.. just a thought tho

1. He has an oil pressure regulator, so itwill supply the desired pressure to turbo...
2. There is no pressure in the return line/regardless how big it is...
3. In a lot of cases with Holsets, the return line wasn't being big enough is an issue, cause the oil can't drain fast enough/ I am tslking high RPM's and WOT/ and that contributes foroveroiling the turbo- blowing seals and go even further...
4. Any turbo is designed to supply proper amount of oil to the bearings,if oil is fed with the proper pressure.....
 
yeah i understand that holset need larger drain lines..but i guess what i am asking is if the drain line aids in the amount of oil pressure you hav inside the turbo.

for example if you have a baloon with a tiny pinhole in it, you can still blow it up and bild pressure inside the baloon, where as if you have a quarter size hole in a baloon there is absolutly no way you could blow it up and build pressure inside it. kind of a simple example but relative..

i am not a turbo genius thats why i am asking.. logically the size of the drain line would be some what of a factor in the oil pressure inside the turbo wouldn't it..
 
Yes, that is the bypass for the oil feed to the turbo. It screws into the -4AN fitting (in the bottom picture), that is tapped to accept the drilled set screws for metering.

This pic should clear things up.

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I'm about to install my HX40 Pro and I love the idea of a by-passed oil feed line, but I have one question that might help clear things up in my head. The line with the silver fitting is the restricted line (with drilled out set screw) while the line with the black fitting goes directly to the oil pan (with no resitriction). By changing the set screw hole size in the turbo feed line, you are essentially by-passing any extra oil directly to the oil pan?

So is the hole size in the set screw your "metering device"? Or is there an actual pressure regulator somehwere not seen in the pics?

I'm curious how much oil actually gets by-passed straight to the oil pan, and how does that affect the oiling of the engine (if at all) and oil pressure? I would assume that a non-restricted line direct from the oil pump outlet to the oil pan would by-pass lots of oil that would normally go through the engine. Please correct me if I am wrong in thinking this!
 
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Can someone explain how the bypass keeps the right oil pressure in the turbo? I was going to use a .067 nitrous jet as a restrictor, but this looks like a better way.
 
what is the exact list of fittings you used for supply and return lines, and what size nipple is welded in? and what is that T fitting called?
 
So, a sincere question on cost. I've always dreamed about welding my own header, but with the cost of the steel, and the cheap prices of one off ebay, is it worth it, apart from pride? I figure I can repair my eBay one if need be. Just checked and I could get a manifold premade for cheaper than your 90s.... again, I'd love to build one, but I'm also on a budget....

P.s. I assume eBay is low quality, but to wha th extent? Had one before that came with the car, I had to surface the flange to sit flat, but after that it worked well...
 
I feed my HX40 from the OFH and no restrictor except for an Earls inline oil filter to the turbo, a banjo bolt at the feed and a -12 drain and it works great. Just MTC's for reference.
 
I finally finished my HX35 install....well, kinda. I did some initial idle tuning and cruise tuning, using my old setup as the base. I made one WOT pull and quickly concluded that I am not finished with my purchases. The log showed ~51 lbs/min at 7100 rpm and still climbing with no knock. Well, this pretty much maxed the 2g maf out at ~3000 Hz (she stay pretty smooth, with only a SMALL ripple).

The upgrades include a HX35 from a 98' Dodge diesel, Delta 272 cams, DIY SS equal length manifold (fittings from Acestainless), new DIY 3" SS down pipe, DIY 4" intake, -16 AN drain (that was a pain in the ass), and an oil feed that uses a bypass for pressure control.

The bad: My EVO 8 fp is maaaxxxxxeeeeedddddd out, and she is still sitting in ultra 4x4 mode!

Oh, and my welding still needs work, but the down pipe came out pretty well, so it is improving.

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I'm totally resurfacing the old post. What do your welds look like now? I think its great you attempted and finished that exhaust with all the welding.
 
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