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Brakes sezing, tried everything but 1 thing

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drunkin_idiot

Probationary Member
10
0
May 5, 2010
Peoria, Arizona
OK so I bought a 93 Talon TSI 2wd. K we've got that out of the way :p So when I was buying the car from the guy, the brake reservoir was empty on brake fluid, the seller ran to the autoparts store and bought some DOT3 fluid, filled it and I drove home. The brake were obviously spungy all the way home, but I made it there with no accidents. Gradually as a drove the car, the brakes got stiffer and worked as they should. Well one day after driving it about 4-5 miles, I noticed the car slowing itself down, as soon as I released off the throttle. Got to my destination, and the brakes were smoking. After being there about 2 hours the brakes had cooled and I drove home(sorry not trying to tell my life story, just trying to post in detail). Same thing happened again. SO what I calculated was that brakes were fine when brake components were cooled. Ok heres when I tried to fix the problem. Bled the brakes completely with brand new DOT3 fluid. Test drove it, same problem. Replace both front calipers because I noticed the piston in them was not returning after being engaged. Still didnt fix the problem. SO I replaced the master cylinder yesterday finally hoping that this would resolved my problem. I worked for quite a while, I put the car on jack stands and spun the front wheels until brakes were up to temp. Everything seems good. Took it out and test drove it some more, and finally after about 3 miles same problem came back. I had to keep it in 1st gear more or less the whole way back just to keep to car from stalling out. Put it back up on jacks stands, and front wheels wont spin at all, calipers are engaged again(stuck). So I was talking to a friend of mine who said the brake lines could have been contaminated with the wrong fluid, and its causing them to well and not let fluid back. My step dad noted that it could be the brake proportioning valve. Has anyone had any problem like this, or know if its the brake lines or proportioning vale? Please I bought this car and havnt been able to drive it more than 20 miles. Very stressful. TYVM :D:banghead: Oh almost forgot, will AWD brake lines work for 2wd CARS?
 
OK so I bought a 93 Talon TSI 2wd. K we've got that out of the way :p So when I was buying the car from the guy, the brake reservoir was empty on brake fluid, the seller ran to the autoparts store and bought some DOT3 fluid, filled it and I drove home. The brake were obviously spungy all the way home, but I made it there with no accidents. Gradually as a drove the car, the brakes got stiffer and worked as they should. Well one day after driving it about 4-5 miles, I noticed the car slowing itself down, as soon as I released off the throttle. Got to my destination, and the brakes were smoking. After being there about 2 hours the brakes had cooled and I drove home(sorry not trying to tell my life story, just trying to post in detail). Same thing happened again. SO what I calculated was that brakes were fine when brake components were cooled. Ok heres when I tried to fix the problem. Bled the brakes completely with brand new DOT3 fluid. Test drove it, same problem. Replace both front calipers because I noticed the piston in them was not returning after being engaged. Still didnt fix the problem. SO I replaced the master cylinder yesterday finally hoping that this would resolved my problem. I worked for quite a while, I put the car on jack stands and spun the front wheels until brakes were up to temp. Everything seems good. Took it out and test drove it some more, and finally after about 3 miles same problem came back. I had to keep it in 1st gear more or less the whole way back just to keep to car from stalling out. Put it back up on jacks stands, and front wheels wont spin at all, calipers are engaged again(stuck). So I was talking to a friend of mine who said the brake lines could have been contaminated with the wrong fluid, and its causing them to well and not let fluid back. My step dad noted that it could be the brake proportioning valve. Has anyone had any problem like this, or know if its the brake lines or proportioning vale? Please I bought this car and havnt been able to drive it more than 20 miles. Very stressful. TYVM :D:banghead: Oh almost forgot, will AWD brake lines work for 2wd CARS?

I was thinking master cylinder up until you changed it... I immediately think proportioning valve after that. Is it all brakes or just front? Both front or just one? If the answer is only both fronts than proportioning valve is highest on my list of suspects. As for a fluid swap changing the way the system reacts? I'm a little skeptical of that.
 
Im pretty sure its all of the wheels. Not positive. I know its both front. Now if it is the proportioning valve, would it be failing, or just gunked up. Like would cleaning it out be a good solution, or replacing. Dont know where I would find another one.
 
Im pretty sure its all of the wheels. Not positive. I know its both front. Now if it is the proportioning valve, would it be failing, or just gunked up. Like would cleaning it out be a good solution, or replacing. Dont know where I would find another one.

Replacement... All of the wheels doing it equally first says master cylinder then it says proportioning valve. I would also look for kinks in the hard-lines and wear on the rubber/ss lines. Check the prop-valve for leaks too. That's a sure sign. Beyond all these things. The only other thing I can think would possibly cause something like that is actual foreign material still in the fluid... possibly solidified in the lines... that's a hell of a stretch though.
 
A bad brake hose can cause the same condition. Heres how I tell if the caliper is bad or if its the hose: Compress the caliper piston with a c-clamp, with the problem your describing the piston show go in very hard, if at all. Then open the bleeder on the caliper (while the c-clamp is holding pressure on the piston). If fluid shoots out of the bleeder and the piston becomes easy to compress then you have a bad hose. If no fluid shoots out, or if its just drips a little bit then its the caliper.

Oh, and if the rubber on the brake fluid cap is all swollen and distorted then you have contaminated fluid
 
Sometimes the inner lining of the hoses will start to break down and act like a one way valve. It's a 17+ year old car and it is probably time for new hoses anyways. Worth a try.
 
I probably should have done more research or the proportioning valve. After reading around on the forum, this problem has come up a couple times, all leading to the prob valve. So im gonna get the brakes back hot until they freeze again, crack the prop valve and see if the pressure goes back to normal. I will definitely replace the lines as well though. Anyone know where I can get a new proportioning valve from? Auto parts stores dont seem to carry them. Thanks for all the help!

Also wanted to ask, a lot of websites seem to sell brake line kits, but for AWD. Will awd brakelines fit on a 2wd?
 
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