Looks like you found your leak. Or didn't hook up the tester correct. Assuming I understand how you hooked it up/where it's leaking.

I hooked it up to the intake side and clamped it down. I'm assuming that's how it should be connected.

blowing out the exhaust side??? or are you blowing air in the air intake of the turbo and its coming out the jpipe???

I agree. You have pin point where the air is coming out. pull the turbo out if u have to. Plug the the presure side and go from there.

Don't know a huge amount about turbo's but maybe a turbo seal? If it's going through the turbo and coming out the other side then it sounds like time for a new turbo/rebuild. Don't take just my advice on that though.

The way I understand what he's saying its leaking from behind the compressor cover, right?

^^Yes. There are two "screw holes" back there and i tried putting my fingers over them and it seemed like it kind of stopped the leak? It's pitch dark outside and I couldn't get my camera down there to take pictures. It's possible that it might be coming out of the J pipe connection but not sure. If I pull the turbo out will there be anything more to it than bolting it back on; seals or gaskets and so forth?

It's definitely coming out of the exhaust side of the housing somewhere.

It's a Greddy 18g kit also with less than 4000 miles on it according to the previous owner. Shouldn't be time for a rebuild yet.

usmc0651dns said:

^^Yes. There are two "screw holes" back there and i tried putting my fingers over them and it seemed like it kind of stopped the leak? It's pitch dark outside and I couldn't get my camera down there to take pictures. It's possible that it might be coming out of the J pipe connection but not sure.

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First you need to find out for sure where it is leaking. If its leaking from the j-pipe then there is NO need to pull the turbo.

When you're pressurizing the system you should be able to hear the leak, this will get you to the general area. Then use a spray bottle with soapy water and spray it in the general area. Spray it on the gaskets, seals, couplings, and wherever else it could be leaking. If there is a leak you will see the soapy water bubbling and spraying. Once you find the leak, fix it. Then test again. Keep doing this until your intake tract can hold your pressure. A good idea is to start your boost leak test at the throttle body inlet and stay there until you fix everything, then move to the turbo inlet and test your entire system.

Hope this helps!

They thing about that is it never holds any pressure. It's like it immediate blows out the exhaust side housing somewhere. I guess I'll jack the car up tomorrow and inspect for obvious holes or disconnections.

Boost leak tests are supposed to be on warm engines. Was the engine cold or hot? I had a similar case and it was because the car had been sitting for awhile.

Gstclipse69 said:

Boost leak tests are supposed to be on warm engines. Was the engine cold or hot? I had a similar case and it was because the car had been sitting for awhile.

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I've never heard that before. What's the reasoning behind it?

Gstclipse69 said:

Boost leak tests are supposed to be on warm engines. Was the engine cold or hot? I had a similar case and it was because the car had been sitting for awhile.

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think you're confusing it with a compression test

Put bolts in those two holes to plug them up. On my pte 60-1 I have the same two bolt holes which are there for my wastegate mount to be bolted to. And if you remove one of the bolts air pressure will blow right out of them not holding any boost during a leak test

Thanks for the info. I will put up these pics just in case someone else might have the same issue in the future.

From under the car


From front of the car (under the hood)


Stock heat shield bolts fit perfectly by the way.

Is that where your boost leak was? Did the bolts fix your problem?

Sure did, except for my fuel injectors being out of the block I am switching them out for smaller ones tomorrow. If you need to plug yours, the exhaust heat should bolts should do the trick.

I've never heard that before. What's the reasoning behind it?

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http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...eaking-exhaust.html?highlight=boost+leak+test

Gstclipse69 said:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...eaking-exhaust.html?highlight=boost+leak+test

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That's one guy on an entire thread that says that its supposed to be warm. I think its much more important to turn the crank to the proper angle so that all the valves are closed.

For future reference, what is the point I need to turn the crank to that closes the valves?

Cylinder 1 should be at TDC for a boost leak test. Align the timing marks on the cam gears with both dowels pointing up.

That's my understanding, anyway. If I'm wrong. I've been wrong all my life.

ReYnd said:

Cylinder 1 should be at TDC for a boost leak test. Align the timing marks on the cam gears with both dowels pointing up.

That's my understanding, anyway. If I'm wrong. I've been wrong all my life.

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Boost leak test. This is what I did and it worked for me. Put the engine at TDC and then rotate it 6 teeth clockwise. I'm not saying that this is the end all or the only way but it worked for me. Try TDC and if it doesn't work rotate it 6 teeth and try again.

Thanks for the info and links. I'm going to try it out later on this weekend when I get the car back together.