99gst_racer
Moderator
- 11,976
- 1,542
- Apr 5, 2003
-
Coloma,
Michigan
I spent quite a bit of time setting this up this past winter and spring. I finally got it the way I like it, and I figured I'd share it with everyone else.
I'll start with the valve cover. All machining was done by my buddy Evan and myself. We shaved the lettering and the oil cap boss (I'll discuss this more later). We also punched two holes through the top for vent ports.
After that, I removed the factory baffle from the underside and began mocking up my version of a baffle system. I basically wanted to be able to remove the factory baffle to clean underneath it, and I couldn't come up with an good way to reattach it. So, I decided to make my own. When we punched the holes through the top, we did it directly above the cam towers. This will give me an area where oil isn't being slung. We just had to weld in two small pieces of aluminum on each side of the hole to deflect any oil being slung up by the cam lobes.
After all the machining was done, I had my welder weld in a few bungs here and there. We used -10 ORB (o-ring boss) bungs on the top, and a 2" Pro-Werks 2" cap & bung assembly for an oil cap. This thing is SWEET, by the way. No more leaking oil past the cap gasket like the factory ones usually do. We had to machine off the locking assembly for the factory cap, and weld on a threaded ring in it's place. The cap itself is a black anodized, billet aluminum cap with an o-ring seal.
A few pics of the bungs and fittings prior to welding them in place:
Here's a few pics of the valve cover after being powdercoated and clear coated by Carlos of Tirado Custom Coatings. Turned out beautiful, if you ask me.
* Also notice that we took the time to completely eliminate the side factory ventilation port. This involved filling in the hollow bubble from the underside, and hand filing it down to match the side contour of the valve cover. It probably took more time than it was worth, but I did it anyway.
With the valve cover finished, it was time to look into a worthy catch can. I had plans to buy an aluminum coolant overflow tank and completely modify it to suit my needs. And then I came across Craig's large filter catch cans. These cans are much nicer and are far more advanced than what I had originally planned, so whether or not to buy one was a no-brainer. Pictures don't do these justice - they're gorgeous.
Here's a pic of mine before being polished. -10 inlets on the top and a -12 outlet on the front.
I welded a bracket on the backside and mounted the can in the area that the fuse box is typically located for a 2G.
I'll start with the valve cover. All machining was done by my buddy Evan and myself. We shaved the lettering and the oil cap boss (I'll discuss this more later). We also punched two holes through the top for vent ports.
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After that, I removed the factory baffle from the underside and began mocking up my version of a baffle system. I basically wanted to be able to remove the factory baffle to clean underneath it, and I couldn't come up with an good way to reattach it. So, I decided to make my own. When we punched the holes through the top, we did it directly above the cam towers. This will give me an area where oil isn't being slung. We just had to weld in two small pieces of aluminum on each side of the hole to deflect any oil being slung up by the cam lobes.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
After all the machining was done, I had my welder weld in a few bungs here and there. We used -10 ORB (o-ring boss) bungs on the top, and a 2" Pro-Werks 2" cap & bung assembly for an oil cap. This thing is SWEET, by the way. No more leaking oil past the cap gasket like the factory ones usually do. We had to machine off the locking assembly for the factory cap, and weld on a threaded ring in it's place. The cap itself is a black anodized, billet aluminum cap with an o-ring seal.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
A few pics of the bungs and fittings prior to welding them in place:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Here's a few pics of the valve cover after being powdercoated and clear coated by Carlos of Tirado Custom Coatings. Turned out beautiful, if you ask me.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
* Also notice that we took the time to completely eliminate the side factory ventilation port. This involved filling in the hollow bubble from the underside, and hand filing it down to match the side contour of the valve cover. It probably took more time than it was worth, but I did it anyway.
With the valve cover finished, it was time to look into a worthy catch can. I had plans to buy an aluminum coolant overflow tank and completely modify it to suit my needs. And then I came across Craig's large filter catch cans. These cans are much nicer and are far more advanced than what I had originally planned, so whether or not to buy one was a no-brainer. Pictures don't do these justice - they're gorgeous.
Here's a pic of mine before being polished. -10 inlets on the top and a -12 outlet on the front.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I welded a bracket on the backside and mounted the can in the area that the fuse box is typically located for a 2G.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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Last edited: