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Adjustable Cam Gear Weights

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Yamahaulin

10+ Year Contributor
695
12
Jan 30, 2010
Bowling Green, Kentucky
Anyone ever weigh the different manufactures gears to see who's is the lightest? I am in need of purchasing a set and would like some info. Initially i'm looking at Fidanza or Brian Crower. Does Anyone have experience with either of these brands? Weights or personal experience would be of some help. Thanks again guys.
 
I'm pretty sure a couple of oz. in weight difference certain brand of adjustable cams wouldn't matter. There are a lot of other variable that would effect the power a car can produce it you're choose it on that basis and what do you mean by personal experiences?
 
Well your right, a couple of ounces wouldn't be a huge difference, but with rotating weight every bit counts. I'm not gonna spend way more money for the lightest ones but if i were looking at 2 brands lets say x and y, if they are close to the same money and x is lighter than y i would probably by x. Personal experience is you have them or know someone who has them and can say they are good build quailty, easy installation, or no they suck don't buy those.
 
They are all the same, better than the stock ones. I'd have to say you've you'd have to ask whose tuner your car to say whether or not they'd prefer one over the other. Which cams are you running?
 
I removed about 15 lbs of rotating mass and gained 0 whp on the dyno, testing before and after.

Just some info for ya.

Fidanza gears are OK for the price if you're looking for a deal but be warned the marks on them are not perfect so you gotta pay attention when stringing the belt.
 
I have comp 101200, same thing as FP2 cams. Which marks are not perfect, the ones used to time it or the advance/retard marks.

I removed about 15 lbs of rotating mass and gained 0 whp on the dyno, testing before and after.

Just some info for ya.


Where did this weight come from. I have dyno'd 1000's of cars and never seen anyone not gain something from reducing rotating mass. I've seen wheels that are only 2lbs lighter make more hp on the dyno.
 
I worked for Total Engine Airflow, we CNC'd cylinder heads for ford and Chevy. We had LS1 edit and a dynojet dyno, all i did most days was load the cnc and dyno tune camaros, firebirds, and corvettes. I don't think we had 2 4cyl cars on the dyno in the 5 years i worked there. So if you want to know anything about those cars, i'm your guy. I come here to learn about dsm's. I have only had mine since Feb and am still learning the car. There is a wealth of knowledge to be had here on this forum. I've found most people very nice and willing to share their knowledge.
 
I have comp 101200, same thing as FP2 cams. Which marks are not perfect, the ones used to time it or the advance/retard marks.




Where did this weight come from. I have dyno'd 1000's of cars and never seen anyone not gain something from reducing rotating mass. I've seen wheels that are only 2lbs lighter make more hp on the dyno.

Honestly, I was surprised as well. I've seen the wheel swap thing gain power on hondas, and I do see a loss when I dyno on my hoosiers vs street tires, but this was a definitely dead on same dyno. 15 lbs is a total guess but it was a hefty amount. I went from a stock flywheel and ACT 2600 with street disc to a quartermaster twin. I'm not sure of the weight difference exactly, but I'm pretty sure it's in the 10-15 lb range. Free revving and the way the car drove definitely changed, but as far as the dyno graph was concerned, el zilcho.

The marks that aren't perfect are the ones used to time the motor. They are close, but off by a couple degrees on a lot of sets. As long as you line everything up and keep a good eye on the dowel orientation you can tell pretty easily if it's right or not. You'll probably see what I mean when you put them on. I don't consider it a big deal since I'm used to them. It's not nearly enough to throw you off by a tooth or anything, just enough to cause a little confusion.
 
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