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Newly Machined Head-What to do?

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MagickMan0730

10+ Year Contributor
69
1
Aug 27, 2009
Ellenville, New_York
Okay so I should be getting my head back soon. I just recently sent it off to get it machined because I had 2 exhaust manny bolts snapped in it and I kept overheating. So they are machining it and checking for warps, new gaskets, etc. My main question is for when I get everything back in my hands. I have some guys telling me that the head needs to be broken in again and I shouldn't/cant really boost or get on it for like 2k miles??? I can bend my valves very easily, etc. Is this true. If yes/or no, what exactly should I do to break my motor in correctly. Im gonna be running my TDO6H 20G with it at 15psi like before. Should I lower my boost, not boost, not go over specific rpm's, etc? Pretty much a whole head job. I just wanna make sure I break her in correctly so I dont blow anything in like a week.:coy: Thanx in advance...
 
Your friend doesnt know what he is talking about. We have roller rockers. If new, the springs may emit a little metal for a little while. But, boosting or not, they will do it. The higher you rev the sooner they stop doing it.
 
Ok so then are you saying that when the head comes out it has the same strength as normal. I dont have to granny shift or anything like that for a while? I can just go at it like normal?
 
Go at it like normal. Do some reasearch on the net to determine best break in technique(s). I use the method of revving to 2500 rpm and holding it for 5 minutes to ensure piston rings seat properly. Never had a problem. I know other people suggest babying it, though.
 
Cool. I thought it was a HUGE thing to break everything in correctly or stuff can blow easily. So should I use your method? Because the main reason its getting machined is to just get the bolts out and give me new gaskets.
 
no, bolt the head on and drive normally, the only way you will bend valves is if the t-belt breaks or you set the time belt wrong from the start.

there is not a break in for a reman head, with the used stock cams.

your changinging the oil I am sure, so have the oil pan drained, and after you bolt the head down, and set your time belt, and hook up all your manis, dump a quart of oil over the springs and retainers, then bolt down your VC and finish up.

let the engine idel for a few mins so the oil is flowing thu the head, and then go drive it like you normally do.

also you may want to do this oil mod before you bolt the head down...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

also did you have the head surfaced? if so.. how? on what equipment? I hope they did not belt surface the head.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

What gasket do you plan on running?
no matter what gasket you use, the head deck surface should look about like this...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html
did they measure the thickness of the head? new head thickness is 5.200 Area Min thickness is 5.185 if it is thinner than 5.185 then use a thicker head gasket.
 
Thanx for the help. I will be telling my machinist about the oil port mod and the belt surfacing. At least I now know that everything will be good. Thanx again....
 
Go at it like normal. Do some reasearch on the net to determine best break in technique(s). I use the method of revving to 2500 rpm and holding it for 5 minutes to ensure piston rings seat properly. Never had a problem. I know other people suggest babying it, though.

He's talking new head. Not new block :)
 
break in cams if cams are new. otherwise, you don't need to do anything differently.
 
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