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BlackMount

10+ Year Contributor
803
1
Jan 20, 2010
Monroe, Wisconsin
O.k my DSM is still having issues, and I wasn't going to post about it for awhile about it and just try to fix it myself. until tonight...Coming home from local car meet I was accelerating from a stop sign and all the sudden...The car just came alive on me and tire spin like no ones business....it went all the way up to 5k RPM's so I shifted 2nd...Spin still shifted to 3rd @ 5k again...spun a little still. (Keep in mind it was very wet + slick out that's why so much tirespin.) Then came to a stop light all excited I was going to try and see if it would do it again, and when it turned green it just did what it usually does.....

usually what my car does regardless if I'm at 1\4 throttle, 1\2 throttle or Full WOT. Is it will accel...then slugs down but boost builds rapidly but lacks power, and about 2.5-3k rpm's right about to take off, and it cut's\Misses...Sometimes it sounds like a miss but will not go higher then X rpm's no matter how hard I try, and other times It's just a Massive Jerk like hitting a rock wall.

Someone Explain why my car worked perfectly for 30 seconds?

Things Done trying to fix this.

Replaced:
*MAF
*ECU
*O2
*Cam-AS
*Spark Plugs
*Coil Packs

Did This:
*Re-did timing twice. it's dead on now, I've checked it 3 times today now.
*Played with the CAS and it doesn't do much. if I retard it all the way, the idle drops down and sometimes dies from getting to low.

I know I've posted alot about this same problem but I need your guy's help. This is what the forums are for are they not?

Post Video of what Happens later tonight....
 
did u check the timing with a timing light ? and did u do a compression test ? and another thing to check is to see if maybe ## wastegate is sticking open or closed
 
did u check the timing with a timing light ? and did u do a compression test ? and another thing to check is to see if maybe ## wastegate is sticking open or closed

Don't have a timing light. but all my timing marks are dead on, I'm going to have ignition timing checked during the week.

Do you have anything to log with so we can see if somethings up? Have you checked the knock sensor?

No I don't sadly, and what do you mean "Checked"?

boost leak? but i would also say check the wastegate

Getting one done as soon as my friend lets me get ahold of his BLTR

Wastegate has no cracks. I just had the O2 housing off about a week and a half ago and I inspected very carefully for any form of cracking or anything. I'm not sure its a lack of boost...I took my car out a few mins ago to video tape what it usually does, and on my way back It started hauling ass again, and my Boost Gauge Pinned @ 15 PSI. @ 4500 Rpms, then Was Fuel Cutting at about 5700-6000ish.
 
make sure the wastegate is closed all the way and that the actuator is not holding it open a bit.
 
make sure the wastegate is closed all the way and that the actuator is not holding it open a bit.

But I'm not loosing boost so I don't see that being the Case, and I just said I had the O2 housing off and took a good look at it. It's perfect.
 
if its stuck open a bit u will still make boost but it will be sluggish.
 
Video. I apologize for poor Video + Audio Quality, Bare with me.

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid230.photobucket.com/albums/ee258/gabby_christopher/Video0011.flv">

Car will not allow me to go past 3k no matter what the circumstances 99% of the time Unless I force it to go past 3k by down shifting, but then if I touch the gas nothing happens.

The last few seconds of the Video are me in Nuetral just giving it some gas, and as you can see it's like it has a very low rev limiter.

Everytime you hear and see the camera start to shake that's what it does when I try to accelerate at 2300 and up.
 
+1 boost leak test. remember when setting the base timing you need to ground out the sensor so that the computer allows you to change the timing at the cas so it uses that as a reference point. Moving the cas other wise doesn't really do anything for you. Also log and see what your afr's look like i bet you running super lean or super high temps
 
Last edited:
+1 boost leak test. remember when setting the base timing you need to ground out the sensor so that the computer allows you to change the timing at the cas so it uses that as a reference point. Moving the cas other wise doesn't really do anything for you. Also log and see what your afr's look like i bet you running super lean or super high temps

I've been showing no noticeable signs of running Lean...Car runs as hot as everyone else's Turbo DSM too....

Car often spits black smoke under heavy throttle, plugs are nice and black when I change them, and I can smell it...I have no way to log.
 
Most likely an ignition problem. Plugs gapped to 0.028"? Plug wires checked at night for arcing? Knock sensor checked for leaking goo?

It sounds like your engine consumes its share of oil as well.

Yes, Gapped Properly to spec

Checking for arcing...Not yet But I know I have week Spark in 2\4 of the wires and I know it's due to them, I'm waiting on a Refund to come in to order some NGK Blue Spark Plug Wires. I'm trying to get ahold of some used plugs from friends just to make things easier until then.

Knock Sensor...no but could it really cause the problems happening in the Video? and wouldn't it make it's little knock sensor noise or w,e?
 
I've been showing no noticeable signs of running Lean...Car runs as hot as everyone else's Turbo DSM too....

Car often spits black smoke under heavy throttle, plugs are nice and black when I change them, and I can smell it...I have no way to log.

You know...
I would check your turbo... Ive seen turbo's that were about to go NOT shoot out smoke yet choke around that RPM... Maybe you need a tune though who knows.
 
You know...
I would check your turbo... Ive seen turbo's that were about to go NOT shoot out smoke yet choke around that RPM... Maybe you need a tune though who knows.

how would I go about checking this?

Shaft Play...well...absolutely none...spools nice and quick with out a problem, builds boost well. It's Clean. no Cracks. It's fairly new.

I half rebuilt it awhile ago. It had a crack in the Exhaust Turbine Housing, and I took a 14B Parts turbo I had and slapped the Housing on there and called it a day...And I saw nothing but Positive differences from that so that is out of the question.

and would I really need to tune?

Stock Injectors, Stock MAF, K&N Air Filter, and no Muffler @ 15 PSI?????
 
The knock sensor doesn't make a noise, it listens for one. Specifically, it listens for a ping over a certain threshold of intensity on the exact sound frequency that the engine block resonates at. If the knock sensor hears a loud enough ping, it pulls timing. Pull enough timing and you have a soft rev-limiter similar to what many OEM calibrators employ.

From what you've said, I think the problem is your plug wires.
 
I've been showing no noticeable signs of running Lean...Car runs as hot as everyone else's Turbo DSM too....

Car often spits black smoke under heavy throttle, plugs are nice and black when I change them, and I can smell it...I have no way to log.

If you have a boost leak you won't be running lean, you'll be running rich because the ECU has accounted for the air that isn't there and added fuel for it. Also black plugs are a sign of running rich. I would do a boost leak test!
 
This may sound kinda basic, but... are you sure you didnt cross any of your plug wires? Your car is running pretty bad there, so i doubt its anything small like spark plug gap.

It sounds ignition based to me. If your sure its not a crossed wire, Id do a visual of your cam/crank sensors along with their wiring. Check for anything loose / frayed / or anything out of the ordinary. Then move to the coil packs. Test them for resistance and proper function along with plug wires for the same. Also test the wires leading to the sensors. With ignition on they should read a specific voltage.

If you say it runs great some times (30 seconds or w/e) then it could be a short somewhere. I would even have the ecu tested with one of those special computers, just to be sure. Does the car idle well?
 
Honestly after watching the video it sounds like something is majority wrong, possibly inside the engine. Was it recently rebuilt? Mine did something similar several years ago and it ended up being spun balance shaft bearings. I only got 200 miles out of the rebuild. I was having problems the whole time, ended up having a boost leak, fixed it and it ran amazing for about 5 minutes and then started violently shacking, wouldn't rev, had a weird growl to it when i gave it gas, white some coming out the back. I hope its not in your case but just a heads up. Have you done a compression check?
 
if your plugs are black your running rich it sounds it to me in the video. what injectors are you running? if there stock look at them and see of can tell what color they are and if theres a name on them. make sure wires are in correct order. stock fpr? im wondering if maybe it took a poop on you so it may cause you to run rich if it did .

also check your oil and see if it smells like gas
 
My oil does smell like gas but not near as bad as it use too.

I'm going to get new spark plugs wires here soon

Boost leak test coming soon too.

I have the stock Bluetop Injectors that These come with.

Fuel Pump Is new. That is not an issue

ECU is perfectly fine, I've eliminated that from being the problem (Tried 2 other turbo ECU's and neither made the car run better)

And there is a slight miss @ idle sometimes. otherwise It idle's pretty well. at about 800...if this matters, I never get a Cold Idle. When I start the car It still Idle's at the same place as if It was Warmed up.

Here's something I found strange. When I start the car, and say pull off my BOV Recirculation tube, and put my hand over it. There's no suction, and I cant hear the Intake pulling in any air either. Even if I give it a little bit of a rev still no suction or hissing noise until the turbo starts to spool....Why is this? I mean I understand the turbo isn't forcing air in @ idle but it has to draw air from somewhere so why does it seem like it's not really sucking in Air?
 
looks like as boost leak with your stock guage pegging around 2k rpm. do you have a mech guage as that would be helpful in diagnosing this concern (stock guage is a calculation of airflow through the maf so if the stock guage is high the mech is low you have a boost leak and need to do a blt).

i had a co worker that had about the same problem his would run great till it warmed up then he would have the same problem. he had a bad ecu (leaking caps)


but since yours is so intermittent check all your wiring connectors on your maf and ecu for corrosion or pushed out terminals.

deffinantly do a blt and check the wiring for damage and positive engagement
 
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