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Multiple part questions (Mitsubishi wants to charge me an arm and a leg)

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cathode26

15+ Year Contributor
47
2
Apr 16, 2005
Houston, Texas
Mitsubishi wants to charge me a lot for parts. I do not have any mechanical skills. I am trying to find cheaper parts.

1992 eagle talon tsi (Stock, manual, 88k)

Part Cost
Power Transistor 224.00
Ignition Coil 233.00
Plugs and Wires 108.00
Injectors 309.56
Injector Resistor 120.87

The claim is that it is going to take 7.5 hours of labor to change all this stuff out. The labor is going to be about 700 bucks.

The parts are expensive, I know I can find better ones but I do not know if I can use them.

Parts I found online:

Power Transistor $192.92
1990-1994 Eagle Talon Power Transistor - Beck Arnley


Ignition Coil $180.49
Race Pages - Eagle Talon Ignition Coil - 1992 Eagle Talon Ignition Coil

Plugs and Wires $68.23
Eagle Talon Spark Plug Wires at Auto Parts Warehouse

Injectors, I found these stock injectors, 35x4 = $140
Fuel Injector, OEM Numbers MD115076, IN009, INP009 OEM Fuel Injectors, Diesel Fuel Injectors

Then there are these 550cc HKS, but my car is stock, $110.00
I am assuming it is 4 injectors for $110.00, please correct me if I am wrong.
HKS Injectors for the Mitsubishi Eclipse - DSMtuners.com

Currently the ECM is being sent to ECM tuning to get fixed. The ECM is stock but I could ask them to upgraded it with the 1G DSM non-EPROM conversion if that would matter?


Any help would be appreciated.

-Vincent
 
Buy all of the parts used. A lot of these parts are simply unbolting them and putting the replacement part in with nothing else needing to be done. I wouldn't pay the dealer those kinds of prices. I would learn to do it yourself or find a friend that can do it for you. The EPROM conversion is not necessary unless you plan on running a chipped ECU.
 
Extremepsi, MAPerfomance those are 2 trustworthy sites I use. But I would just buy this stuff used.
 
knochgoon24

No, I went to mitsubishi and they said I needed to replace all that stuff. I put the price quote at the top.
I am just looking for cheaper/better parts.

Trying to find a store or reliable seller.
 
knochgoon24

No, I went to mitsubishi and they said I needed to replace all that stuff. I put the price quote at the top.
I am just looking for cheaper/better parts.

Trying to find a store or reliable seller.

Oh, so they are throwing parts at it to try to find a problem. Tell them you want the diagnostic results that show the parts as bad.
 
sounds like they don't feel like wasting their time. so lets just sell this guy a new ignition system and injectors and resistor box. i would take it to someone that cares.

sure all that stuff could fix your problem but
if you don't have an intermittent problem and the car currently runs (idc how crappy) you do not need all of that.
 
The car shakes violently when I give it gas... so really really crappy. Mitsu claims the bad injectors took out the ecu. The ecu is currently flying to ECMtuning to get fixed in Maryland.
 
Hmmm.... I had some problems like that and it was a bad coil pack. Took 5 minutes to confirm that it was bad with a multimeter. I asked around and actually had someone send me one for the cost of shipping ($8).

It will be interesting to hear what the guys at ECMTuning say about the ECU.

The fact that plugs and wires are on the list just proves that they're throwing parts at it. Plus they think you'll just roll over and pay all that money for replacement parts. You could get NGK plugs and wires for about $70-80. But there's no need to replace the spark plug wires if it was an injector issue. They should have tested the resistance of the wires with a multimeter.

They're being lazy and banking on you being a sucker and paying up.

A $10 multimeter and 30 minutes of your time could save you $250+ plus the labor.


---How to test the coil pack---
33471d1088544507-back-firing-wot-maybe-fuel-cut-testcoilpack.jpg


---How to test the spark plug wires---
1. Take the spark plug cover off.
2. Pull each spark plug wire off 1 by 1 and test the resistance in each of them. If any of them have a resistance far above the rest, then it's bad.
3. While the wires are off, pull each spark plug (13/16" spark plug socket and 6" extension) and regap them to .028" using a feeler gauge (<$10).
4. Reinstall them and watch for arching at night. Spritz them with some water from a spray bottle and keep looking for arching.

---How to test the power transistor---
Uses a multimeter. A cheap one is $10. An ok digital one is $25.
http://www.motorcycleproducts.org/Eclipse-7-8-pin-power-transistor.pdf

Other stuff
-Buy the injectors used. The stock 450cc ones often sell for $40-80.
-I'm not sure how to test the injector resistor. There's probably a way though.

But like I said before, they're just being lazy and making you pay for it. If I were local, I'd help you out.
 
Thanks for your help, I found someone that can replace these because he claims it is easy.
He has a multimeter so I will use the diagram to test out my plugs. If my parts are good I will just mail back the new ones.

Friends Labor = free

Power Transistor $ 30 //ebay
Ignition Coil $160 //USAutoParts
Plugs and Wires $ 50 //USAutoParts
-----
$230


My friend said that this stuff is harder to replace and I would probably need special tools so I am going to let mitsu replace this stuff.

Injectors $160 //Fuel Injector Warehouse
Injector Resistor $120
------
$280

Mitsu labor claim is 3.5 hours for Injectors and Injector Resistor, around 340 dollars

Mitsu also wanted to charge 350 for the ECU to get fixed. But I came on here and heard good things about ECMTuning, and they charge 13 bucks for 10 minutes.

So comparing what mitsu wanted to charge I am not making out so terrible.


Power Transistor $224.00
Ignition Coil $233.00
Plugs and Wires $108.00
Injectors $309.56
Injector Resistor $120.87
ECU $350.00
Labor $700.00
--------
$1694.00



After finding good prices and ECUtune around $840.00.
Maybe less if that multimeter shows that the power transistor and Plugs are good.

Thanks for the help.

-Vincent
 
Last edited:
The car shaking badly sounds like a motor mount. I agree i think they are just trying to get you to buy a lot of parts you dont need. Times are tough right now and if a dealership can make money on some one that is not mechanically inclined than they will do there best to get a lot of money out of you. I dont see how all those parts can be bad on your car. You can easily test them and i know you are capable of unbolting some parts and bolting new ones on. How is your car running? What makes you think you need all these parts?
 
tsi87889095

I have a huge loss of power, check engine light is on, the car is really loud and it is like a repeated stutter shake, and it is bad enough that the whole car shakes. It is a light vibrate when there is no gas, when I add gas it gets worse.

I have no way to know if they are lying.


//----------------------------------------------

donniekak

If only I had another friend that knew anything about cars ;_;
 
tsi87889095

I have a huge loss of power, check engine light is on, the car is really loud and it is like a repeated stutter shake, and it is bad enough that the whole car shakes. It is a light vibrate when there is no gas, when I add gas it gets worse.

If the check engine light is on then get it checked to see what your computer is saying. I thought your ECU was in the mail though?

Sounds like a boost leak too. Definitely get new plugs an wires but I would hold off on the rest of the stuff.

How long have you had this car? Are these problems that you've had for a while or did they just start all at once?

Injectors pop out and the new ones pop in. There are 3, 12 mm bolts holding the fuel rail to the head, other then then you pull the old ones out and insert the new ones. The only tools you would need are a little flat head screw driver (to remove the clips on the plugs if they are still there) and a 12 mm socket and ratchet. No special tools.
 
Takes me about 20 minutes if that. I rarely have bought, some items described from the dealer new. Most i get from the salvage yard.
 
LOL 7.5 hours? damn i think it would take me 7.5 minutes to swap out all those things.

my bad comments aside, it shouldn't take that long to even take off all those parts and test them which is what they should do. plugs, wires, and coil should be the only thing that really go bad.
 
New plugs (NGK BPR6ES), new plug wires and do a boost leak test as well. Get the car down to Autozone or Advaced Auto so they can check the CEL which is free. That will give you a code and basic info on the problem. For the most part that will tell you what will need to be fixed.

Don't have Mitsubishi do your work.

To take the fuel rail off, you only need a screw driver and socket. Wear goggles if you don't know how to properly depressurize the fuel rail.


Working on the cars is easy, just read on the site and you can figure things out. Become a weekend mechanic and it'll save you a lot of money.

Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page is a great site for info as well.
 
Seriously man. Dont let the dealer rape you like this. From what you describe it just sounds like you need new plug wires. MAYBE a coil pack. I just went through the same thing on my car....I bought a used coil and power transistor for $50. Autozone sells Bosch wires for 42.99 with a LIFETIME WARRANTY (meaning this will be the last set of wires you buy). Plugs you can get at NAPA for 2 dollars a piece.

When was the last time you changed the plugs and plug wires. I would start there. If that doesnt change anything then I would try the coil and the transistor. Unless it feels like its running on three cylinders the injectors are probably alright.

So anyway, when you get your ECU back, just have some new plugs and wires ready to drop into the car. It cant hurt and might save you $800 LOL.
 
ive got good coil packs for your year, along with a power transitor. Ive also got injectors but i think im going to keep them as spares for my car.

PM me and i can give you a much much MUCH better deal than that. Thats absolutely INSANE to pay that much
 
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