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Holset Turbos, PART 7

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Some holsets have the webbing without the porting all the way through to the compressor blades. Like my h1c. VERY quiet turbo, but has the webbing ;)

The hit business has nothing to do with any thing. The bolton hx35 will pull harder than a 50-trim earlier given the same setup, bottem line. It spools faster and flows every bit as much through the turbine and more through the compressor at a higher efficiency.

First you were wondering if the hx35 "hits" like a 16g, then you're wondering if it hits like 50-trim or fp3052 :confused:. The 50-trim and fp3052 have different spool characteristics themselves and both are different from an evo3 16g.


I agree too. The 16g starts spooling slightly later than some turbos and comes onto full boost earlier vs. such turbo. Like even the 50-trim. or td06h 20g. Or fp green (VERY similar). This makes a sudden DIFFERENCE in torque, the classic 16g "hit". But the other turbos are building and making practically the same torque at the same rpm, given the same setup.

I get it now, and I never wondered if it hit like a 16g, 16g does not hit in my opinion, it does not pull me back or nothing, I said that because someone said it "hits" like their 16g, which is the reason why I'am questioning these holset turbos, I was like seriously?

So if it pulls you like a 50 trim or fp3052 or even more, than I will be happy because that is what I'am looking for.
 
Why are we even discussing this? The Holset is on a different planet compared to the 16g. I've had an ebay 20g, FP18g, and now the Holset on my car. The Holset hits/smacks/whips/eats small birds/ and spools faster than either of the other turbos! It rapes. I would call it the Roman Polanski of turbos.
 
The Holset hits/smacks/whips/eats small birds/ and spools faster than either of the other turbos! It rapes. I would call it the Roman Polanski of turbos.


LMFAO!!!! Im within 2 months now of experiancing my holset. many of the important parts just showed up. I think the last important pieces i still have to get of the puzzle are an intake pipe and a 38mm wastegate.
 
Why are we even discussing this? The Holset is on a different planet compared to the 16g. I've had an ebay 20g, FP18g, and now the Holset on my car. The Holset hits/smacks/whips/eats small birds/ and spools faster than either of the other turbos! It rapes. I would call it the Roman Polanski of turbos.

That is what I wanted to hear, makes me happy and can't wait for the switch! :D
 
My HX35 hits hard, there is no inbetween on boost. You're either at 2-5 psi or full boost. If I'm going WOT I two hand the steering wheel, especially second gear. It hits hard and does not stop pulling.
 
Sorry if this is getting off topic, but it always seems best to ask Holset related questions in the most up to date thread. So the time is near for me to start piecing together a HX-35 set up. I already have Punishement mitsu bolt on o2 housing with v-band 44mm tial gate and a SBR ported 2G exhaust manifold. I'm going to get a bolt on BEP turbine housing as it will match my goals just fine.

The only questions i had are:
1) Does anyone run this drain line? (10AN should be sufficient) EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Oil Return Line Kit (Socketless Hose Fitting) : -10AN *SALE*

2) Does anyone know if the rubber section in the drain line above is going to be long enough for a HX35 on a 1g with stock 6 bolt oil pan? (site says it comes with 12" but you can ask for more, i'm thinking I might have to trim it down shorter???

3)Has anyone actually mounted a HX35 with a stock 2g manifold? Just concerned about clearance with the waterpipe and block. I have no problem denting the water pipe, but i saw in some threads that the turbine housing sits close the block.

Thanks guys for any help.
 
Sorry if this is getting off topic, but it always seems best to ask Holset related questions in the most up to date thread. So the time is near for me to start piecing together a HX-35 set up. I already have Punishement mitsu bolt on o2 housing with v-band 44mm tial gate and a SBR ported 2G exhaust manifold. I'm going to get a bolt on BEP turbine housing as it will match my goals just fine.

The only questions i had are:
1) Does anyone run this drain line? (10AN should be sufficient) EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Oil Return Line Kit (Socketless Hose Fitting) : -10AN *SALE*

2) Does anyone know if the rubber section in the drain line above is going to be long enough for a HX35 on a 1g with stock 6 bolt oil pan? (site says it comes with 12" but you can ask for more, i'm thinking I might have to trim it down shorter???

3)Has anyone actually mounted a HX35 with a stock 2g manifold? Just concerned about clearance with the waterpipe and block. I have no problem denting the water pipe, but i saw in some threads that the turbine housing sits close the block.

Thanks guys for any help.

I have that drain line. I had to trim it down to about 4" (2g). 12" will be plenty. The only thing you should do is go to Home Depot and pick up a spring coil that goes around a garden hose to keep it from kinking. Works great.

My HX35, and several others on here, is mounted to a 2g manifold and clears the block just fine. I just had to bang the hell out of my water pipe and remove the oil cooler lines. Do yourself a favor and purchase new O-rings for the water pipe. Mine were old and started to leak pretty bad after banging on the water pipe.
 
My 2g manifold took the bolton hx35 fine too. Denting the water pipe is still a must. The evo3 manifold sat the turbo in the same place, so there's no reason to upgrade to that either if you have your 2g piece ported.

10 -an = about 10/16". That is NOT sufficient. The Holset HX35/40 Repair Manual specifically states that you need a minimum of 19mm for the drain pipe diameter. This is 12 -an or larger. . . sorry. Just because it works with journal bearing garretts, doesn't mean it works with journal bearing holsets, even if it does bolt on.
 
No. You're restricting volume then.

The drainline being larger lowers the pressure as well. and increasing flow POTENTIAL. You restrict so that the flow out the drain causes the pressure to be correct. If you falsely increase the pressure because of running a small drain AND restrict the flow even further to get the pressure right with a restrictor at the feed, then you'll kill the turbo. If you leave the pressure higher without a restrictor with a smaller-than-spec drain, then you'll blow the oil past the seals and kill the turbo.

Get the drain right, so that you will have the right flow for the pressure range required.

. . .With that said several have been fine with a drain that is too small. But you're taking a gamble. Don't bicker about holset failures if you don't do it right though ;) . These turbos can be had in good condition cheap, but it still gets expensive vs. just piecing together the right parts for it. You're shaving enough cost with buying a holset in the first place, no eed to go completely nuts trying to save another bit of money or time by getting something improper for the turbo.
 
No. You're restricting volume then.

The drainline being larger lowers the pressure as well. and increasing flow POTENTIAL. You restrict so that the flow out the drain causes the pressure to be correct. If you falsely increase the pressure because of running a small drain then restrict the flow even further to get the pressure right with a restrictor at the feed, then you'll kill the turbo.

So what you are saying is since I am running only the -10an line with the feed restrictor the oil pressure will be too low?
 
So what you are saying is since I am running only the -10an line with the feed restrictor the oil pressure will be too low?

No the pressure will be fine, but the flow could very well be too low. Since you have to restrict flow to control pressure; and the small drain line restricts flow AND raises pressure at the same time.
 
Sorry if this is getting off topic, but it always seems best to ask Holset related questions in the most up to date thread. So the time is near for me to start piecing together a HX-35 set up. I already have Punishement mitsu bolt on o2 housing with v-band 44mm tial gate and a SBR ported 2G exhaust manifold. I'm going to get a bolt on BEP turbine housing as it will match my goals just fine.

The only questions i had are:
1) Does anyone run this drain line? (10AN should be sufficient) EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Oil Return Line Kit (Socketless Hose Fitting) : -10AN *SALE*

2) Does anyone know if the rubber section in the drain line above is going to be long enough for a HX35 on a 1g with stock 6 bolt oil pan? (site says it comes with 12" but you can ask for more, i'm thinking I might have to trim it down shorter???

3)Has anyone actually mounted a HX35 with a stock 2g manifold? Just concerned about clearance with the waterpipe and block. I have no problem denting the water pipe, but i saw in some threads that the turbine housing sits close the block.

Thanks guys for any help.
That's the return line I got for my hx35 and sadly my stock return line for my 16g the oil pan side was bigger than what they send with the kit. I ended up using the lower half of my stock return line and the holset fittings for the turbo in top. Used about 2in of the hose.
 
What's bad is that even the stock dsm drain and even the hole into the oil pan is too small for minimum spec :( . . . But I did get away with it for a long time. . .

This is just a word to the wise. If you plan on pushing the turbo, then the necessary VOLUME of oil in the CHRA will go up. If you're going to buy the hx35 and only want an easier way to net 375-400whp or the hx40 for an easy 450whp then you could be ok.
 
What's bad is that even the stock dsm drain and even the hole into the oil pan is too small for minimum spec :( . . . But I did get away with it for a long time. . .

This is just a word to the wise. If you plan on pushing the turbo, then the necessary VOLUME of oil in the CHRA will go up. If you're going to buy the hx35 and only want an easier way to net 375-400whp or the hx40 for an easy 450whp then you could be ok.

I'm only running 28psi now, and don't plan on ever going above 30-32. TELL ME I'M OK!!! LOL
 
What's bad is that even the stock dsm drain and even the hole into the oil pan is too small for minimum spec :( . . . But I did get away with it for a long time. . .

This is just a word to the wise. If you plan on pushing the turbo, then the necessary VOLUME of oil in the CHRA will go up. If you're going to buy the hx35 and only want an easier way to net 375-400whp or the hx40 for an easy 450whp then you could be ok.

Keeping my fingers crossed I will be feeding from the head with bs in. I will check the pressure though first. Don't vendors get it that the fittings are too small even smaller than stock its ridiculous.
 
I actually found a cheap used -16 AN stainless steel oil line on ebay that I am going to shorten to proper length and use a -16 weld on bung for my oil pan, i will check oil pressure but I might not even have to run a restrictor with that large of a return line. Any comments?
 
10 -an = about 10/16". That is NOT sufficient. The Holset HX35/40 Repair Manual specifically states that you need a minimum of 19mm for the drain pipe diameter. This is 12 -an or larger. . . sorry. Just because it works with journal bearing garretts, doesn't mean it works with journal bearing holsets, even if it does bolt on.

Ive stated this many times before, but your drain size is dependent on oil viscosity. If you run 15w40 or thicker oil and drive in cold climates without letting your oil warm up before you drive, 10an will be too small. This is what the spec is for. If you are running thinner oil or let your car warm up every time you drive it, this large of a drain isnt necessary.

My drain is 10an at the turbo to the stock bottom part of the drain. I run 5w30 oil and always let my car warm all the way up before i drive it and cool down before i shut it off. Every turbo ive ran with this drain setup has had the same play in it as it did when i put it on. Both of the holsets ive ran were always in the 30-35psi range.
 
No. You're restricting volume then.

The drainline being larger lowers the pressure as well. and increasing flow POTENTIAL. You restrict so that the flow out the drain causes the pressure to be correct. If you falsely increase the pressure because of running a small drain AND restrict the flow even further to get the pressure right with a restrictor at the feed, then you'll kill the turbo. If you leave the pressure higher without a restrictor with a smaller-than-spec drain, then you'll blow the oil past the seals and kill the turbo.

Get the drain right, so that you will have the right flow for the pressure range required.

. . .With that said several have been fine with a drain that is too small. But you're taking a gamble. Don't bicker about holset failures if you don't do it right though ;) . These turbos can be had in good condition cheap, but it still gets expensive vs. just piecing together the right parts for it. You're shaving enough cost with buying a holset in the first place, no eed to go completely nuts trying to save another bit of money or time by getting something improper for the turbo.

So where did you buy your return line? Just wondering because I do not want to go the wrong route once I do get this turbo!
 
See the post just above yours. Something similar to what I'm going to do.



Ive stated this many times before, but your drain size is dependent on oil viscosity. If you run 15w40 or thicker oil and drive in cold climates without letting your oil warm up before you drive, 10an will be too small. This is what the spec is for. If you are running thinner oil or let your car warm up every time you drive it, this large of a drain isnt necessary.

My drain is 10an at the turbo to the stock bottom part of the drain. I run 5w30 oil and always let my car warm all the way up before i drive it and cool down before i shut it off. Every turbo ive ran with this drain setup has had the same play in it as it did when i put it on. Both of the holsets ive ran were always in the 30-35psi range.

They do recommend higher viscosity oil (SHPD) so running thinner oil may be another problem if the bearing system is designed for a different weight. When it is in a warmer climate, then the oil pressure would come down since the minimum drain line size is so large. I don't think Cummins/Holset limits its market to the cold climates, So would it be enough pressure with the thinner oil after warmed up and in warmer climates? What is your oil pressure? . . . IOW, how much smaller can you go when you run the thinner oils and are sure to warm up properly? Is the volume flow the same?

Like I said, my turbo lasted a while with a smaller drain line, about 17mm. But boost aside, I'm pushing the turbo now in flow and consequently rpm; the volume flow now neccesary most certainly is higher. VERY glad yours have been running well :thumb:
 
I have a fftec t4 divided manifold that i planned to use on my hx52 build for my 95. I have decided to go the top mount route for that now and wont be using that manifold. I would like to use the manifold on my 92 weekend warrior with an hx-40 pro.

So my question is, do they make a divided t4 turbine housing for the hx-40 pro?

I know there is a 19cm and I think there is a 17cm. I think I've mentioned this before, but I personally think the 19cm housing is a little excessive for the hx40 pro. I'm running a TS T4 mani/19cm HX40 Pro on a 2.4 liter 9:1 compression wiseco/crower motor and I noticed quite a bit of lag compared to the 2g mani/scm6152 turbo setup i was running previously. The power output is phenominal with my current setup, but considering the spool/power results Badman had with his stroker/HX40 setup on a 2g mani and bep .55 housing, I think the T4/19cm combo is overkill. I'll probably switch to a 17cm housing to try and improve spool times. If that doesn't help, I will likely swap in a ts T3 mani with a 16cm or smaller ts turbine housing (do they make one?) , or maybe even a single scroll T3 mani with a .70 AR housing( once again, do they even make one for a holset?) The only other option I have, is to deal with the lag and go with an even bigger turbo, but the reason I chose the extra displacement engine in the first place was to keep my car's "fun to drive" factor (keep lag at a minimum) and still make 650-750whp. If I wanted a high reving top-end drag monster with lots of lag and huge top-end power I would have opted for an hx55 or S374 with a 2.0 6 bolt or a destroked 2.1.
 
They do recommend higher viscosity oil (SHPD) so running thinner oil may be another problem if the bearing system is designed for a different weight. When it is in a warmer climate, then the oil pressure would come down since the minimum drain line size is so large. I don't think Cummins/Holset limits its market to the cold climates, So would it be enough pressure with the thinner oil after warmed up and in warmer climates? What is your oil pressure? . . . IOW, how much smaller can you go when you run the thinner oils and are sure to warm up properly? Is the volume flow the same?

Like I said, my turbo lasted a while with a smaller drain line, about 17mm. But boost aside, I'm pushing the turbo now in flow and consequently rpm; the volume flow now neccesary most certainly is higher. VERY glad yours have been running well :thumb:

We really need to think of the feed line/bearing and the return line as 2 separate, but related systems. If the pressure on the feed line is within spec for 15w40 and you are using a thinner oil, you are running more volume through the bearing. This can help in lubrication and cooling. Once the oil gets out of the bearing, it basically goes into a free fall until it gets back into the oil pan. The reason the holset spec for the drain is so large is because of it being available in cold climates, not that its limited to only cold climates. The difference in viscosity at operating temps between 5w30 and 15w40 is very small compared to the difference in viscosity at 0*F which is huge. 15w40 at 0*F free falls like glue.
 
Just a question that I have not heard, the hx35 7 blade flows around 55lbs/min right? In the BEP housing, it can be maxed at 55lbs/min, but since it is more restrictive it takes more boost to get it up there right?

What about the T3 BEP housing? Would it flow more? Would it take less boost to make it there since it is less restrictive? What about spool speed differences? Anyone care to share thoughts?
 
Quick question, getting ready to install my holset and just wondering if anyone takes their car on long trips with this turbo, or if I should be worried about reliability on taking this on a road trip? Would like to drive the car around 1200+ mile trip this summer just would like to hear anyones comments
 
Look at the oem diesl applications and european gas race results coupled to the gas results this side of the pond for durability. Mine has been on 300+ mile trips across the bay (I live on the eastern shore VA).
 
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