90-GST
10+ Year Contributor
- 106
- 1
- Aug 15, 2008
-
St. Louis,
Missouri
Sorry in advance for the book. I'm trying to put in as many details as possible so it's easier to diagnose.
I was driving the car the other day, and the battery light and brake light came on out of no where. While these lights were on, the headlights were dim and the car didn't want to move, but if I pushed the clutch in and reved up a bit, the lights would go off and the car acted normal. I got on the highway and headed home, and the car would randomly throw the battery and brake light on, but if I reved it up a bit, it would go off.
At one point, I was passing someone and the lights came on, and before I could let off, the car backfired super loud. I pulled over and shit the car off, hoping it might do something, and then restarted it. When I did, it ran pretty rough and wanted to die(the 2 lights were on). Shut it off again and it wouldn't start. I just got a loud buzzing similar to the game "Operation" coming from what sounded like behind the head unit. So I called a friend, and he headed out to pick me up. I periodically attempted to start it while waiting, and after about 10-15 minutes it decided to start, so I took advantage of it, and drove about 10 miles to a rest area and pulled off there, where I met my friend, and he jumped the car(I had turned it off and it wouldn't start again). We let it charge up, and I took it the extra 5 miles home where I put it in the garage until I could get my hands on a multimeter. I got one today and checked the battery, and it kept arcing when I attempted to.
I thought my amp was grounding out, so I unhooked it and still got the arcing, so I bought a battery. When I got it back to the house, I realized that my friend had hooked the positive cable into the wrong hole, and I swapped it and it started reading. By that time, I had set the battery on the garage floor(concrete) for about 5 minutes, and it read about .510 volts(I wouldn't think it would lose so much charge so fast?). The new battery read 12.8 volts. I put the new battery in, and hooked everything up and started the car. When I did, the ran a little rough, had a loud ticking noise, and the wideband was reading about 17-19, instead of the normal 13-14.
While the car was running, the multimeter read 12.04(with parking lamps on) and 11.8(with headlights on). The battery light was also showing, and I had my ebake up the whole time, so I can't know if the brake light was on randomly too. When I shut the car off, the multimeter read 12.7 at the battery. I'm thinking it might be the alternator? But am not really sure how to check it without taking it off.
As for the ticking noise, I noticed my oil was low, and filled it up. It kept making the noise, and I let it run for a bit as I checked the voltage again. It started to get quieter as it warmed up, but I didn't let it run much longer than that. The noise seems like it's coming from the intake plenum almost, but I can't pinpoint the noise, and can't get low enough to tell if it coming from the bottom end either.
A video is uploading right now, and will be posted as soon as it is done. It is showing the car idling with the ticking noise, as well as the wideband at 16-17, the battery light on, and the boost gauge sitting at about -10.
I was driving the car the other day, and the battery light and brake light came on out of no where. While these lights were on, the headlights were dim and the car didn't want to move, but if I pushed the clutch in and reved up a bit, the lights would go off and the car acted normal. I got on the highway and headed home, and the car would randomly throw the battery and brake light on, but if I reved it up a bit, it would go off.
At one point, I was passing someone and the lights came on, and before I could let off, the car backfired super loud. I pulled over and shit the car off, hoping it might do something, and then restarted it. When I did, it ran pretty rough and wanted to die(the 2 lights were on). Shut it off again and it wouldn't start. I just got a loud buzzing similar to the game "Operation" coming from what sounded like behind the head unit. So I called a friend, and he headed out to pick me up. I periodically attempted to start it while waiting, and after about 10-15 minutes it decided to start, so I took advantage of it, and drove about 10 miles to a rest area and pulled off there, where I met my friend, and he jumped the car(I had turned it off and it wouldn't start again). We let it charge up, and I took it the extra 5 miles home where I put it in the garage until I could get my hands on a multimeter. I got one today and checked the battery, and it kept arcing when I attempted to.
I thought my amp was grounding out, so I unhooked it and still got the arcing, so I bought a battery. When I got it back to the house, I realized that my friend had hooked the positive cable into the wrong hole, and I swapped it and it started reading. By that time, I had set the battery on the garage floor(concrete) for about 5 minutes, and it read about .510 volts(I wouldn't think it would lose so much charge so fast?). The new battery read 12.8 volts. I put the new battery in, and hooked everything up and started the car. When I did, the ran a little rough, had a loud ticking noise, and the wideband was reading about 17-19, instead of the normal 13-14.
While the car was running, the multimeter read 12.04(with parking lamps on) and 11.8(with headlights on). The battery light was also showing, and I had my ebake up the whole time, so I can't know if the brake light was on randomly too. When I shut the car off, the multimeter read 12.7 at the battery. I'm thinking it might be the alternator? But am not really sure how to check it without taking it off.
As for the ticking noise, I noticed my oil was low, and filled it up. It kept making the noise, and I let it run for a bit as I checked the voltage again. It started to get quieter as it warmed up, but I didn't let it run much longer than that. The noise seems like it's coming from the intake plenum almost, but I can't pinpoint the noise, and can't get low enough to tell if it coming from the bottom end either.
A video is uploading right now, and will be posted as soon as it is done. It is showing the car idling with the ticking noise, as well as the wideband at 16-17, the battery light on, and the boost gauge sitting at about -10.