ok so my clutch is toast and i need a new one.. are the F1 Racing clutches on ebay good for a basically stock car? and will i need a new flywheel?

From what I have read, it is hit or miss with those clutches. I do not personally have experience with ebay clutches so I will let someone else chime in about that. My opinion is you get what you pay for and I do not like to cheap out on things like a clutch. A clutch job is not something I want to do more than I have to. I'd recommend an ACT 2100 for a near stock setup, its what I have and so far I love it.

As far as the flywheel, you won't need a new one unless it's teeth have been chipped off or its just generally in poor shape. However, you will want to at least get your flywheel re-surfaced. Any machine shop should be able to do it. It cost me about $40 to get mine done locally.

While you are in there for the clutch install, I recommend replacing the throwout bearing (OEM), pivot ball, fork, rear main seal, slave and master cylinders and axle seals. That may seem like alot but it will be better in the long run. Thats the end of my rant, sorry got carried away

thanks for the info..

I just put in my clutch last nigh tbut I went with center force. There's a vendor on here that is selling ACT clutches for a good price.

Project2G said:

I just put in my clutch last night

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is it farily easy to do yourself?

Pulling the tranny is easy, its getting it back on and aligned correctly that is the most trouble (at least for me). I've never done a FWD clutch, but it shouldn't be that bad, at least you do not have to deal with the transfer case. Just take your time and label all your bolts in baggies, you will thank yourself when you are putting back together knowing exactly what bolts are for what. It also helps to have a buddy with you that knows what they are doing, helps alot and makes lifting the tranny easier.

Any questions post back and I will do my best to help answer them.

im guessing the tranny has to come out the bottom, right?

Yep, just lower it down with a jack and when your done installing the clutch just lift it back up and pop it into place.

well it sounds pretty easy.. just gotta follow all the steps..

Also make sure to get your flywheel stepped to the proper specs.

Yep heres an RRE article about flywheel step:

RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info


And here's an article on doing a 1g FWD clutch:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...g-turbo-fwd-clutch-flywheel-install-swap.html

i need this car done quick.. would there be a problem with not getting the flywheel resurfaced? i kinda just need it to last till im 18 in June and get a bunch of money from a car accident i was in... then i can start fixing it up..

I really would not recommend that. You probably could pull it off but you may experience some engagement problems. Its only around forty bucks and doesnt take long at all, I only waited about forty five minutes and it is definitely worth the piece of mind.

I would get an XTD Stage 2. I run a stage 3 and its a little chattery, and would be overkill for a stock car.

A lot of people run XTDs and have great luck with them. A kit from an auto parts store is about the same price, but for some reason because they are on ebay people like to think they are junk.

If time is a concern, you could get a new flywheel from Autozone for about $60.

Out the door for under $200, and you'll be very happy with it, and it'll be done right (not reusing the flywheel)

-TunedDSM- said:

Pulling the tranny is easy, its getting it back on and aligned correctly that is the most trouble (at least for me). I've never done a FWD clutch, but it shouldn't be that bad, at least you do not have to deal with the transfer case. Just take your time and label all your bolts in baggies, you will thank yourself when you are putting back together knowing exactly what bolts are for what. It also helps to have a buddy with you that knows what they are doing, helps alot and makes lifting the tranny easier.

Any questions post back and I will do my best to help answer them.

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Yeah.. I use a tranny jack though.. $80 makes life easier.

i hope that we're all talking about doing this on a shop floor and not on a fancy car lift....

Yep, no lift needed.

FWIW, I picked up a Centerforce clutch from Amazon.com for $320 shipped. It isn't much more than the cheapo stuff and you know it will be good quality.

Oh, and pulling the tranny is also very easy if you have a cherry picker lying around or konw a buddy with one. Having it swinging on a chan means it is super easy to angle it in properly.

when you get the transmission out and the flywheel off, inspect the rear main, look on the back of the flywheel for any oil spray that may be coming from the rear main, it may leak but not enough to effect anything, and it should be replaced.

I pulled mine apart last night and the back of the flywheel was completely clean, the seal looked perfect, and no signs of any leaking, generally this is not a wear and tear piece, but if you have over 200,000km's on your engine you should change it even if it looks good. I had a new one but didn't change it because theres no signs of any leaks at all, and i didn't want to cause a problem.

As far as the clutch fork and fulcrum ball, i replaced these, but my OEM ones look perfect, the fulcrum had no wear, and the fork looked fine, the TOB however was showing some wear, but it was replaced also.

It all depends, if you pull it apart, and the back of the flywheel shows no oil from a slightly leaking rear main, its fine, just make sure everything around it is clean and theres no oil debris (oil mixed with dust and road debris will leave a film around the area).

If you do replace the rear main, i suggest removing the housing and changing the paper gasket as well, use a bit of RTV just a very thin almost invisible coating, dont try to pry out the rear main with a screwdriver and push the new on back in and hope it dosen't tear along the sealing surface, its up to you though.. If it ain't broke (showing no signs of leaking) dont fix it, you may just cause yourself a bigger headache.

Inspect the master and slave, if leaking replace, also replace the rubber line that goes from the chassis hardline to the slave hardline, you can upgrade to a braided stainless one. My master and slave looked OK but i replaced them anyways.

Use OEM mitsu parts only, except for the clutch/PP, all seals/gaskets/the TOB and transmission parts should be all OEM mitsu, i dont trust alot of aftermarket parts and mitsu stuff isn't that much more either.

TQ flywheel bolts to 105ft/lbs and use red loctite, and TQ pressure plate to flywheel bolts to 25ft/lbs spec is 12-15ft/lbs which seems very low, i have had problems of the pressure plate to flywheel bolts backing off and you can guess what happens, be sure to use Red loctite on these as well.

Other then that, clean the pressure plate surface with brake clean, and the flywheel surface before you re-assemble it, and make sure the inside of the bell housing is clean to an extent as well as behind the flywheel, there may just be dust from the wearing clutch unless you have any oil leaks, then it will be more of a sludge in certain areas.

Inspect your axle seals as well, and your CV boots for leaking grease, if they are leaking but not yet torn or clicking, replace the boot and repack, once they start clicking you need a new cv joint.

Be sure to spend some time properly adjusting the clutch this is very important, and bleeding generally takes a bit of time, unless your a pro haha.

I recommend ACT clutches, the 2100 with a full organic street disc will do nicely for you, i have used them before in other non DSM cars with no problems, i used one in a FWD launching at 8400rpm on slicks and the clutch held up fine for multiple 1.6 60ft's.

You will not need a new flywheel, but you should send it out to get resurfaced and make sure the step high is done properly.

Goodluck.

Plaser said:

ok so my clutch is toast and i need a new one.. are the F1 Racing clutches on ebay good for a basically stock car? and will i need a new flywheel?

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I know that I am a few days late. But I purchased one on ebay and well today I paid the price. I have never heard of F1 racing clutches before. There is a reason for that. Mine burnt out in 10k. So yeah, I hope that you haven't dont that yet. Doing the clutch job is fairly simple. My first time took me about eight hours and I just had common tools. No air tools. And just a car jack. What are you future HP goals. I would avoid F1 racing clutches. I had an awful experience with them. I very rarely abused the clutch if at all. I would just avoid them all together. My car is totally stock. For now.

Mikael SS said:

I would get an XTD Stage 2. I run a stage 3 and its a little chattery, and would be overkill for a stock car.

A lot of people run XTDs and have great luck with them. A kit from an auto parts store is about the same price, but for some reason because they are on ebay people like to think they are junk.

If time is a concern, you could get a new flywheel from Autozone for about $60.

Out the door for under $200, and you'll be very happy with it, and it'll be done right (not reusing the flywheel)

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Are the stage 2's sprung? I've heard the xtd's are ok if they're the unsprung ones.