boost leak test the car if you already havent,, ive got the same issues with 3rd 4th and 5th and a pcv valve fixed everything for about 2 weeks and then my clutch started slipping --

but for 300 hsp and a gst id look at a 2100act with street disk

that will be good for 320 torque

but to be safe id go with a 2600 with street disk or 6 puck sprung

depending on what your goals are

and just take it easy on the car for a couple of weeks untill you can put up the cash -- dont just install a oem clutch -- couple of guys here burnt through a oem clutch at 15psi in a week

even an exedy clutch kit stage one probably will work depending on your hsp goals and how many times you plan on changing your clutch in the future

good luck

First off, stop with the "stage" clutches. They don't mean anything without numbers behind it along with a brand name and they type of clutch + material.

For your goal, an ACT 2100 will suffice but if you want more power down the road you should check out the ACT 2600. The Fidanza 3.2 is a good 4 puck kevlar disk. I run the Fidanza 4.3 which is a 6 puck ceramic. Each person will have their opionions for clutches but ACT and Fidanza(IMO) are 2 of the more named on here.

Here is a list that will point you to various venders.
DSMTuners Shopping List: Clutches

Make use of this also:

Use proper spelling, grammar, and punctuation when posting in our Tech Forums - don't use texting/instant messaging lingo here. This isn't an English class, but we demand that you at least make an attempt or your posts will be deleted. Internet Explorer users should download IEspell or just use Firefox since it has spell check built-in.

to be honest until the summer i wont have any money to make any bolt-ons, so really the car will be 300whp for a while. im pretty sure its the actual clutch because my gears are really stiff, and the rpms would go up but the car really wont accelerate.

also is there any clutch that i could buy that would be cheap and reliable until the summer when i can actually buy a good performance clutch.

think you can pick up an excedy stage one kit for high 200's but in all honesty id either barrow the money or just drive the car easy untill you can afford the act 2100 with street disk or whatever you are looking at for your hsp goals -- i wouldnt just throw a clutch in there untill the summer -- personally i dont like ripping transmissions out of any car and more then once every five years much less then twice in a year

good luck with either route you decide to take

i guess your right how much does installation cost for a clutch?

i saw an f1 clutch are those any good?

if your clucth is slipping bad you may want to go ahead and replace it, act 2100 is good. or if your low on cash flow like me an oem clutch is good. If you dont install it your self, labor is gonna be a bi***. I get a auto dealer discount and they quoted me like 500$ for disc and install. But at a regular shop your looking at upwards of 600-800. Don't quote me on that.

i was looking also at oem like you said have u ran with it??? is it good?

If you haven't trashed the flywheel and pressure plate you can clean them up and put a new clutch disk on. The flywheel should be checked for cracks and resurfaced with the correct step used for your pressure plate. Even a stock disk will hold 300hp as long as you don't overheat it and turn it into kitty hair by playing stoplight racer.

A weekend with a couple of friends to help you drop the trans and about $100 could take care of it.

thanks

XyoungmurdaX said:

i was looking also at oem like you said have u ran with it??? is it good?

Click to expand...

Yes im running an oem disc. But my goals are only around/above 300whp so the oem disc is good enough for my needs. It depends on how far you want to go, I mean if your looking at higher horse power, investing in a stronger clutch may be the best way to go.

i agree with him that an oem disk can hold 300hsp but.... the pressure plate is the key

act 2100 or 2600 pressure plate is what id go with

and youll save around 300 dollars if you do it your self the shops see you comming on the labor

If you plan on slipping the clutch or launch a lot, the OEM disk won't hold up as well as an after market clutch will that's built for that. If you are going to drive normal like a regular car then it should hold up fine until too much power is put down that it won't hold. The pressure plate will make a difference as well. If you can get an ACT 2100 pressure plate with the OEM disk then that would be a good combo once they are matched together.

DSMDriver69 said:

Yes im running an oem disc. But my goals are only around/above 300whp so the oem disc is good enough for my needs. It depends on how far you want to go, I mean if your looking at higher horse power, investing in a stronger clutch may be the best way to go.

Click to expand...

ya im around 285whp, does it hold up well on high revs? like on a run? ill be staying there for some time?

LiQUiDx said:

If you plan on slipping the clutch or launch a lot, the OEM disk won't hold up as well as an after market clutch will that's built for that. If you are going to drive normal like a regular car then it should hold up fine until too much power is put down that it won't hold. The pressure plate will make a difference as well. If you can get an ACT 2100 pressure plate with the OEM disk then that would be a good combo once they are matched together.

Click to expand...

also dont i have to break in the clutch after its replaced? and if i do buy a better pressure plate will it fit my oem clutch??

XyoungmurdaX said:

i guess your right how much does installation cost for a clutch?

i saw an f1 clutch are those any good?

Click to expand...

I would not touch those clutches ever again. It hardly lasted 10K of city driving with me. I just ripped my transmision today after it left me stranded on the road of course and it was totally gone. They are cheap clutches I have found and they do not take any abuse without paying for it later. Like much worse. So yeah, I would avoid them. Maybe thats just my opinion on the matter. I will never buy an f1 "racing" clutch again.

well just came across this problem tonight. I was coming home and about 3500-4000 rpms the tack jumps but the car doesn't go anywhere. I was not even pushing the car hard, but it is really cold outside tonight. I guess just the extra power from the temp change pushed the stocker over its limit. My goal is 300-350 whp what do you guys think of a center-force dual friction clutch?

gsxeclipse97 said:

what do you guys think of a center-force dual friction clutch?

Click to expand...

That was the hot clutch, back before ACT started making DSM clutches, say about 93/94.

jmerrill said:

I would not touch those clutches ever again. It hardly lasted 10K of city driving with me. I just ripped my transmision today after it left me stranded on the road of course and it was totally gone. They are cheap clutches I have found and they do not take any abuse without paying for it later. Like much worse. So yeah, I would avoid them. Maybe thats just my opinion on the matter. I will never buy an f1 "racing" clutch again.

Click to expand...

ya i did some research and found out that they usually dont last very long and brake when in stress. i just ordered my 2600 act because i tend to drive pretty aggressive so i rather be on the same side. also i think i have to brake in the clutch right?

also my gears seem to be very stiff, idk if it was my clutch? or what? i replaced the slave but not the clutch master cylinder? so what could it be like first was really hard to get into even with the clutch all the way down

XyoungmurdaX said:

ya i did some research and found out that they usually dont last very long and brake when in stress. i just ordered my 2600 act because i tend to drive pretty aggressive so i rather be on the same side. also i think i have to brake in the clutch right?

also my gears seem to be very stiff, idk if it was my clutch? or what? i replaced the slave but not the clutch master cylinder? so what could it be like first was really hard to get into even with the clutch all the way down

Click to expand...

yes you have to break in the clutch, 500 miles of grandmother driving it sucks

gears being stiff could be from the lack of the clutch you have in there --- personally i wouldnt change anything before you switch the clutch -- do the clutch first

then if things are still stiff -- change the slave,, if that doesnt fix it then go after the master

do one thing at a time so if something goes astray then you know whats the problem

Hitmachine101 said:

yes you have to break in the clutch, 500 miles of grandmother driving it sucks

gears being stiff could be from the lack of the clutch you have in there --- personally i wouldnt change anything before you switch the clutch -- do the clutch first

then if things are still stiff -- change the slave,, if that doesnt fix it then go after the master

do one thing at a time so if something goes astray then you know whats the problem

Click to expand...

i just replaced my slave about 2 weeks ago ima go with the master if the new clutch still has the problem but i just learned that the supporter than supports the engine one of them looks broken is it bad if i dont right away?

Get your mount fixed/replaced first before you deal with the master cylinder. Do you have a picture of exactly you are talking about? If the tranny mount is busted and not allowing it to seat properly onto the motor, you will have major problems to the point of maybe needing a new tranny. But get a picture if you don't have one so we can verify.

The 500mi break in is also to be city driving so you use the clutch a lot. That's the point of the break in to seat both surfaces and it only happens on dis/engagement.

LiQUiDx said:

Get your mount fixed/replaced first before you deal with the master cylinder. Do you have a picture of exactly you are talking about? If the tranny mount is busted and not allowing it to seat properly onto the motor, you will have major problems to the point of maybe needing a new tranny. But get a picture if you don't have one so we can verify.

The 500mi break in is also to be city driving so you use the clutch a lot. That's the point of the break in to seat both surfaces and it only happens on dis/engagement.

Click to expand...

hes got a good point, ya got to be around town, cant just take the car on a 500 mile highway ride -- i agree with the engagement and disengagement aspect of mating the two surfaces

and please post a picture of what your talking about with your transmission

LiQUiDx said:

Get your mount fixed/replaced first before you deal with the master cylinder. Do you have a picture of exactly you are talking about? If the tranny mount is busted and not allowing it to seat properly onto the motor, you will have major problems to the point of maybe needing a new tranny. But get a picture if you don't have one so we can verify.

The 500mi break in is also to be city driving so you use the clutch a lot. That's the point of the break in to seat both surfaces and it only happens on dis/engagement.

Click to expand...

its no biggie now its just a support for the motor, theres like 4 more and i replaced it anyhow. BUT the guy who put in the clutch completely messed my car up!!!!!, now my car has almost no boost its like a 2 psi(was at 15psi) idk what could be this problem maybe he didnt connect some pipes right but im running nooo boost whatsoever, also theres like a small rubber hose that is disconnected and if you touch it sucks air in. idk what that could be its by the motor. so pretty much i got what i paid for but to hell with it he better fix my boost problem. please what could be wrong