Whoever said you need a new motor.

what? I mean it still runs and sounds amazing and no kocking or anything like that, but JuGs said because of the crank having play, it needs to be rebuilt. If I dont want a divorce, I will have to let the talon sit in the driveway.

Turn the crank (if it EVEN needs it), plug the oil squirters, and put some new bearings in and your good to go, no need for a complete rebuild.

Are you sure that the crank pully isnt falling apart, that is a common problem you know. If the crank moved that much, I think you would notice.

Yeah 1/8" is a LOT of play. I think you'd be having other symptoms at this point.

But, if it is indeed walking, yank the motor apart, check the crank to see if it needs machining, if it doesn't just pop in some new bearings and toss it back together. A few hours work and not too much cash.

I didnt notice anything while the car was running. The pully looked to be alright as well, I mean I cleaned it up last night from oil being on it. JuGs thinks maybe the crank seal is leaking as well. I can try to get a video of the play in the pulley tomorrow

GooeyGus said:

Yeah 1/8" is a LOT of play. I think you'd be having other symptoms at this point.

But, if it is indeed walking, yank the motor apart, check the crank to see if it needs machining, if it doesn't just pop in some new bearings and toss it back together. A few hours work and not too much cash.

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Um ONLY symptoms I am having is, no power. I thought all it was boost leak.

wickedz said:

I didnt notice anything while the car was running. The pully looked to be alright as well, I mean I cleaned it up last night from oil being on it. JuGs thinks maybe the crank seal is leaking as well. I can try to get a video of the play in the pulley tomorrow



Um ONLY symptoms I am having is, no power. I thought all it was boost leak.

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I wouldn't think that crankwalk itself would severely effect power. Now, a rotating assembly clunking around could set off the knock sensor and cause a lack of timing, but at that point I think you would hear noise from the bottom end.

Keep in mind, I've never experienced crankwalk first hand, and this info is only based on my knowledge of what happens mechanically when the crank begins to move around.

If it is a problem with the harmonic balancer (crank pully splitting), I could see that interfering with the crank sensor and maybe causing some performance issues.

I would see if you can get a datalogger hooked up and figure out where the loss of power is coming from. Usually when a car feels sluggish enough to really notice, it is either A: Timing or B: Vac/Boost leak.

GooeyGus said:

I wouldn't think that crankwalk itself would severely effect power. Now, rotating assembly clunking around could set off the knock sensor and cause a lack of timing, but a that point I think you would hear noise from the bottom end.

Keep in mind, I've never experienced crankwalk first hand, and this info is only based on my knowledge of what happens mechanically when the crank begins to move around.

If it is a problem with the harmonic balancer (crank pully splitting), I could see that interfering with the crank sensor and maybe causing some performance issues.

I would see if you can get a datalogger hooked up and figure out where the loss of power is coming from. Usually when a car feels sluggish enough to really notice, it is either A: Timing or B: Vac/Boost leak.

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I think you are nailing it on the head as if you were here by us. The motor never had even the slightest of noise. We were looking at the timing belt that was on the car, and it looked to even be not timed right.

Im going to get a video of the "play" with the pulley while attached to the crank. Maybe we are just asuming its crankwalk.

A friend of mine that is a Mitsu Factory trained mechanic said he did bearing replacements and shims with the motor still in the car. He'd lift it, pull the pan off, undo the caps and slide new bearings in by turning the crank and shim it up. I think the only other thing he'd remove was one of the subframe supports.

You can replace rod bearings, but not mains - easily.

ziggo0 said:

You can replace rod bearings, but not mains - easily.

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He showed us by putting a small T-bar in the bearing hole and rotated the crank shaft and they slid out. Course, that's the easy way to replace it, but not for doing plasti gauge or anything.

If it's moving that far, the block is trashed. It will keep running until the trigger plate breaks the crank sensor.

I just dropped a Civic motor in which was knocking. The rod had about .2" of play, so me guessing like everyone else is that there would be some serious f***ing up of everything else with that much play.

You're probably alright.

hmm well thanks everyone. Maybe a video will make it easier for everyone as well

Try pressing the clutch while someone watches the pulleys closely and see if there is movement.

Also, when you press the clutch, does your idle drop slightly?

98 TSi AWD automatic

One Equals Two said:

I just dropped a Civic motor in which was knocking. The rod had about .2" of play, so me guessing like everyone else is that there would be some serious f***ing up of everything else with that much play.

You're probably alright.

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Thrust play is different than rod bearing clearance. The engine will continue to run until the crank sensor is trashed. I've seen planty of 2g dsm's than run, that you can push and pull the crank in and out.

Im sure its crankwalk. The old timing belt was shredded from it walkind and hitting the timing plate. When I had set the timing and noticed the walk the belt almost walked off the cam gears(well started to) With the kind of play his motor is having a rebuild is not a option with the block. main caps will need to be honed crank machined and all new bearings. Even with that all done its not a garentee fix. it could/###### will walk again could take 60k miles or it could be 100 miles hard to tell. It will be esier to just replace the motor with a good used block or complete motor. This is the first time I also ran across a walked DSM. With the ammount of miles on the car Its CW for sure. Theres only a lil over 99k the extra 34k on the car could of added the extra play since it was never cought.

um my car only has 99k on it. not 99k plus 34k

It is VERY uncommon for a auto to create crankwalk.. The main cause of crank walk is extensive and frequent pressure on the trust bearing caused by continuously pressing the clutch pedal... I think your blaming the problem on the wrong terminology... An auto from my knowledge never puts pressure on the trust bearing and another note to mention is that he has a 98 talon with the split thrust bearing design that should stand up to crankwalk better than the 1 piece.. Im just saying I don't think it is crank walk.. Up and down movement is something else.. In and out is the crank walking

wickedz said:

98 TSi AWD automatic

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Ooops...

viper^^ hit the nail on the head im not saying i know 100% that it isnt CW but he just put it in the best terms for what the situation is . In my opinion i wouldnt write it off as your done with the car because if it was my car i wouldnt junk/sell it whatever untill i knew exactly what the problem is just my .2 keep us updated a video could help but only if its under the car/down in the engine bay a video of it idiling wont tell us anything. Good luck with getting this resolved and post the problem when you figure it out so we know.

viperlp01 said:

It is VERY uncommon for a auto to create crankwalk.. True The main cause of crank walk is extensive and frequent pressure on the trust bearing caused by continuously pressing the clutch pedal... Prove this please. I think your blaming the problem on the wrong terminology... An auto from my knowledge never puts pressure on the trust bearing and another note to mention is that he has a 98 talon with the split thrust bearing design Depending on this build date this may or may not be true, they started split thrust in late 98 that should stand up to crankwalk better than the 1 piece.. How so? 6 bolts have a single piece main. Im just saying I don't think it is crank walk..I agree with this Up and down movement is something else.. In and out is the crank walking

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See comments in red.

it was just in and out, not up and down.