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16g Turbo cost

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Okay, I am looking at spending some money :)

Engine rebuild, turbo upgrade, and tranny swap.

So im just going to put all my money into this POS and pray that it doesnt break, again.:ohdamn:
 
Talk to jusmx141 He can probably hook u up with something. He is very knowledgable and is very helpful. He could probably get you a rebuilt MHI 16g somewhere in the ballpark of $300-350.
 
Its pissing me off, everything is going wrong with it.
I dont regret buying it though.
Started as just a daily commuter, now I want to make it a racer.
Roadrunner is too expensive

my car has ran sense May. i replaced some much stuff
 
Talk to jusmx141 He can probably hook u up with something. He is very knowledgable and is very helpful.

Yeah ask jus, he can fix you up.

I heard he froze to death working in the shop the last two nights trying to get caught up on work. :p

Thanks for all the good words and recommendations, guys! I'm definitely ready for spring....this winter is for the birds. :thumb:
 
If you want reliability stay away from no name turbos. They are one of only 3 things in this world that scare me!

Roadrunner?!? What year? Info? My first car I bought when I was 17 (back in '99) was a 1974 Plymouth RoadRunner. She was a factory 318 Auto. She was not sold until 1977. By the time I bought her she had a 340ci V-8, 4 Speed manual, and a few mild upgrades - cams, intake, 600cfm holly 4bbl, ignition module, craiger ss 5 spokes (295 wide tires in the rear). The body had a few blisters but was a PERFECT candidate for resto (if you can ignore the non-matching numbers). It's a good thing the numbers didn't match, so I could actually afford the car, not that I would have bought a 318 auto! ROFL

She demanded a new starter each year and also enjoy MANY new tail/brake lights - I forget which, but they didn't last at all LOL...

Fast times @ ELSS
 
Definately, I would not waste $300 on a turbo that could go bad to then have to spend an additional $500 to replace it when it does. If you are wanting to cheap out with this, I'm scared to hear about any shortcuts you will take on the engine and tranny rebuild. Having a cheap and barely running DSM is easy, having a nice one that is reliable takes work but is rewarding.
 
It's not just as scary as replacing the turbo. If the compressor wheel comes apart (or gets loose and breaks) it can be sent through the intake on a mission to murder your engine!!! I've seen it happen in my Nissan Z days (Z31 - 84-89 300ZX).

If you want a cheap turbo look for a good used Holset :hellyeah:
 
With proper maintenance and care that MHI 16G will last you 100k miles..You'd be lucky to squeeze 10k out of that chinesse crap. See how much money you will be saving after going through 10 of those in a period an MHI one would last.
 
Even for temporary use I would vote for a used Holset over a knockoff turbo. Holsets came on many Cummins diesels (Durrable?) and they made good power with good response and boosted early (for the 80's Nissan 3.0 V6 at least - MUCH better than stock Garret T3's - though a new t3 would surely be much better than old...) But to each their own.

My TSi AWD came with a MHI 16G and a blown motor. I did drive the car before it blew (belonged to a good friend). I've only had a few 6 cyl Turbo cars in past (87 300ZX, 88 300ZX, 89 Skyline GTS-t Type M). I was rather surprised at the 16G for being very responsive on a little 2 liter - its ironic I say that as my old Skyline was a mere RB 2.0 I-6, yet oh so beautiful and unbelievably smooth.

My Talon has almost 300,000kms (187,000 miles). I have no idea how long the turbo has been on her, but it looks that it may benefit from a rebuild (preventative maintenance). How much would this cost to have rebuilt? Can one scribe a couple reference marks before tearing apart and rebuild it on their own? Or is re-balancing an absolute must?
 
How much would this cost to have rebuilt?
Look at my ad in the Freelance section under the Marketplace on this site.

Can one scribe a couple reference marks before tearing apart and rebuild it on their own? Or is re-balancing an absolute must?
You can certainly rebuild it yourself. I have a set-by-step guide in the Tech articles on this site.

If there are balance grinds on the compressor nut, you must mark the alignment of the wheels. If there are no balance grinds, the wheels were balanced separately and their clock position has no effect on balance.

You do not need to rebalance the turbo at the time of a rebuild if there is no wheel damage.
 
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