In blow through with a MAFT or ECMLink V3, put it anywhere after the BOV. I recommend placing it as close to the TB as possible to eliminate as many boost leak sources as you can. You also want it in a straight section of pipe so that flow is as laminar as possible through the sensor. Don't place it directly in front of the TB or in a bend of the UICP.

That would be where I would put it. Make sure that you measure how long the MAF is with the coupler and put it where the pipe is as straight as you can get it, but otherwise you should be fine.

You should put it here:


Then go here and read.

If you are set on using the GM MAF, putting it where you are thinking will work just fine for blowthrough, or you can run it as drawthrough as it was intended.

^ ^

I was thinking it. You typed it.

+2...

so you need us to tell you to remove your cruise control?

Afroclipse said:

so you need us to tell you to remove your cruise control?

Click to expand...

the non-cruise throttle cable is already in the mail


I AM intending to run speed density in the near future, but I got a really good deal on the MAF + translator so I decided to pick it up.

put it somewhere after the throttle body before the BOV good luck

chinola69 said:

put it somewhere before the throttle body after the BOV good luck

Click to expand...

fixed

chinola69 said:

put it somewhere after the throttle body before the BOV good luck

Click to expand...

I think you mean somewhere BEFORE the throttle body and AFTER the BOV

I have mine right before the bend on the TB pipe. But yet on a straight section of pipe. Seems to work great.

As close to the tb as possible.

I got my GM MAF and translator all set up yesterday. With all the stories I've read, I was almost positive that I was going to have to do a bunch of tweaking to get the car to run right.

BUT... I set up the translator to run in "MAF mode" (as opposed to RPM mode), set the dials to the base 450cc injector setting, and it runs GREAT!!! I cant even tell that I've switched to a different mass air sensor. It had a little bit of trouble with the idle at first, but it was only because I reset the ECU. After a day of driving it feels pretty damn good.

I didn't bother hooking up the RPM signal wire. I figure if I end up needing to do RPM-specific tuning, I'll do it in DSM link.

My only problem is that I need to do a bit of modifying on the fitment. One of the couplers isn't grabbing very well and it keeps popping off. Good thing I have it set up as blow thru... I could drive it home and it still ran great with a blown off charge pipe, I just couldn't boost! It holds up to 10psi with no issues, but when I get to full pressure (16psi) it blows off... so I've just been keeping the boost under 10.

I don't know if I would pay full retail price for this setup (around $300 for sensor and translator), but for the $100 I spent on the setup, I couldn't be happier. It was truly plug-and-play.