Exactly "Were on boost", but also, the system needs to have sufficient crankcase venting as well.
As soon as the drain is in full flow with no gaps, it is almost at the point of equalization, be it far off or not, its a lot closer than if the drain weren't full of oil!

Why not take an electronic emissions air pump from a chevy blazer or any other vehicle for that matter and hook up the hoses to the valve cover to pull a vacuum on the system instead of pressure to releive the crankcase pressure?

Its the same idea as behind what the n/a muscle cars use with the crankcase evacuation system with a hose positioned on a 45 degree angle with a flange in the header that uses exhaust pulses to pull a vacuum on the crankcase. That style system can't be used on a vehicle with a muffler as it will then create back pressure causing oil burn off.
Also in theory if your pulling a vacuum in the crankcase there is less force needed for the piston to come down therefore making potential for more horsepower. In theory it would make sense but not sure how well it would do in real world.

^^^ well the real power will come from getting the rings to seal better. A vacuum pump on the crank case makes the piston rings seal against the cylinder walls better and leads to less compression "leakdown". Honda guys do this in all-out motors.

dsm-onster said:

^^^ well the real power will come from getting the rings to seal better. A vacuum pump on the crank case makes the piston rings seal against the cylinder walls better and leads to less compression "leakdown". Honda guys do this in all-out motors.

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Well then It would only make sense that it would work for us. Once my car is built and put back together I'll definatley try this. Just have to wait till spring for the results.

I like the idea of using the chevy emmisions pump. You mean the electric smog pump right? This can handle exhaust heat and soot. :thumbup: from me. It's not like the pulley driven smog setups. VERY little energy loss plus greatly assisting the seal of the pistons. Sounds like a plan

i wasnt sure if i should post a new thread or not but here goes. i have a t3 flanged 20g now and the next turbo i want is a HX40 or maybe a HX35 if on comes along but my question is, is it better to get the BEP housing and go Mistu flange or should i just stay T3 flanged and keep my manifold(Turbonetics w/38mm WG)?

thanks!

dsm-onster said:

I like the idea of using the chevy emmisions pump. You mean the electric smog pump right? This can handle exhaust heat and soot. :thumbup: from me. It's not like the pulley driven smog setups. VERY little energy loss plus greatly assisting the seal of the pistons. Sounds like a plan

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YES! the elelectric emissions pumps that are found under the skid plates of chevy blazers, under the driver side doors of trailblazers, wheel wells of chevy cars. and attached to the air filter box on MANY VW cars.

HMMM, thinking about all the jy GMs around here now

black_gst said:

i wasnt sure if i should post a new thread or not but here goes. i have a t3 flanged 20g now and the next turbo i want is a HX40 or maybe a HX35 if on comes along but my question is, is it better to get the BEP housing and go Mistu flange or should i just stay T3 flanged and keep my manifold(Turbonetics w/38mm WG)?

thanks!

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Yep this is the place for it until Morphius starts a new thread .

You will have about the same spool speed with the original t3 turbine housing and an hx35. plus about 5lb/min more flow with the 8blade compressor and about 11lb/min more flow with the 7blade compressor. And the original t3 boltpattern hx35 hotside has done 132mph. It's plenty of flow. Don't bother going to the bolton stuff with the hx35 unless you want faster spool and would like no more than what the 8blade can do (conservatively: some have done well over that with the bolton hx35). Plus its a lot more affordable to stay t3 since you already are.

Be sure to radius the divider in the twinscroll hx35 turbine housing.

The hx40 turbine housing is just too big for how much even the 60mm compressor can flow with a non-divided manifold. If you have a divided (twinscroll) manifold however, that would be a different story.

If you wan't 60+ lb/min then go bolton hx40 or t3 BEP housing hx40. If you want 10lb/min more fpow potential than the 20g (about 120whp more potential) stick with a t3 hx35.

black_gst said:

i wasnt sure if i should post a new thread or not but here goes. i have a t3 flanged 20g now and the next turbo i want is a HX40 or maybe a HX35 if on comes along but my question is, is it better to get the BEP housing and go Mistu flange or should i just stay T3 flanged and keep my manifold(Turbonetics w/38mm WG)?

thanks!

Click to expand...

The t3 manifold will certainly provide more flow however if bolt on is what you want then the BEP housing should be your choice. However on Holset 40 set ups the .55 BEP housing doesn't compliment the flow of the hx40. Although MANY people have still proven even with the bep housing that the holset 40 still makes tons of power.

thanks for the replys i cant decided on a 35 or a 40 but i think i will stay T3 since i am already set up for it i was thinking that a 35 is a small step but a 40 will let me take the same step plus some room for growth.

and if anyone has and HX they are looking to get rid of shoot me a pm

so the hx35 and the hx40 both come T3 flanged correct?

the hx40 usually comes in a t4 bolt pattern. Some are t3 though. However! the turbine housing of the hx40 is just too big with an open header manifold with that huge hx40 turbine wheel. Pointless lag. a smaller turbine housing will flow plenty enough to outflow the compressor and give you more power under the curve in the process. So don't bother with the stock hx40 turbine housings. If you want a good t3 housing for an open manifold like you have for the hx40, you should look at the bep t3 .70 a/r housing. The typical stock turbine housing that comes with the hx40 is usually over twice as larger .

The 7blade hx35 with it's stock t3 turbine housing is NOT a small step up from the 20g. It is about 120whp more potent! That's the difference between mid 11s and mid 10s. The stock housing hx35 with your open t3 manifold will spool to 20+ by about 4K. And can flow enough for 600whp on BOTH ends of the turbo

dsm-onster said:

the hx40 usually comes in a t4 bolt pattern. Some are t3 though. However! the turbine housing of the hx40 is just too big with an open header manifold with that huge hx40 turbine wheel. Pointless lag. a smaller turbine housing will flow plenty enough to outflow the compressor and give you more power under the curve in the process. So don't bother with the stock hx40 turbine housings. If you want a good t3 housing for an open manifold like you have for the hx40, you should look at the bep t3 .70 a/r housing. The typical stock turbine housing that comes with the hx40 is usually over twice as larger .

The 7blade hx35 with it's stock t3 turbine housing is NOT a small step up from the 20g. It is about 120whp more potent! That's the difference between mid 11s and mid 10s. The stock housing hx35 with your open t3 manifold will spool to 20+ by about 4K. And can flow enough for 600whp on BOTH ends of the turbo

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thanks for the insight. I think i will just go with an Hx35 a 40 is more then i need it seems i would be happy to just break into 10's, for awhile at least

DSM onstar what do you mean radius the divider? I suppose I missed the thread with an explanation on why and how to. So if you could please give me some info on this. thanks

MAtt, just get a grinder and round teh divider. Remove it from the chra first though . You don't need to knife-edge. Just radius it to prevent turbulance. Knife-edging with highvelocity makes for more turbulance than a radius with high velocity.

If you do radius the divider though you wont be able to use it later on in a twin scroll setup. This wont matter to most users, but i thought i would mention it anyways in case anybody planed on doing that later.

Quick question regarding fuel injectors.

@50psi using FIC's calculator I could use 880cc injectors to supply fuel for a 450 whp est. on my holset 35 build. Taking into consideration 30% drivetrain loss to be a bit more realistic. I was thinking to go big and then just tune it down but since this is going to be my daily I would like to get it more accurate. I do not plan on ever making more then 450whp. I've seen many profiles on the holset threads of guys running anything from 750's to well over 1000cc injectors. I know theres alot to take into consideration but ultimatley what would truly get the job done and keep the IDC at or below 80%

So what would be the bottom line? Would I have to go with 1000's Or can I go with something smaller? Extreme PSI is having a sale right now so I'm thinking about getting the injectors.

Some insight of my build-

holset 35 bep .55 mitsu flanged 38mm external gate. looking to run 25-30psi
stock bottom end at the moment. will see 1g rods evo pistons in future
SBR stage 3 ported and polished head.
Magnus sheet metal intake street core stock n/t throttle body
Tubular exhaust manifold (ebay? no name brand)
3 inch exhaust
255 rewired pump stock fuel lines at the moment. might get upgraded line in future. (filter to rail kit)
dsmlink v3
bc272 cams
Water/ meth injection
SBR street core FMIC
2gmas currently. may see 3g/evo mas in future.

BleedingSilver said:

Quick question regarding fuel injectors.

@50psi using FIC's calculator I could use 880cc injectors to supply fuel for a 450 whp est. on my holset 35 build.

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Not to get off topic, the problem with running injectors at a higher base pressure is the Walbro's flow drops off after 70-80 psi.

50 psi base pressure + 30-35 psi boost = 80-85 psi fuel pressure.

(Most people running very high boost use a lower base fuel pressure.)

Bleeding silver, I ran 30psi on e85 this last season witha rewired walbro 255, -6 feed line from the filter, and 1000cc. IDC was low 90s. The feed line dropped IDC 12 percent alone. On stock cams I flowed 43lbs/min. Never checked the change when I put the 272s in.

95burgundyesi said:

Bleeding silver, I ran 30psi on e85 this last season witha rewired walbro 255, -6 feed line from the filter, and 1000cc. IDC was low 90s. The feed line dropped IDC 12 percent alone. On stock cams I flowed 43lbs/min. Never checked the change when I put the 272s in.

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Is a single pump enough for e85 with an hx35 bolt on ~50lb/min? I was planning on running a bosch 044 in-line along with a 255 rewired in tank. Overkill or no? I also have 1200cc injectors.

seriously everyone running holset and no one has a good pics of a -12 an return line on one?

cooldude919 said:

Is a single pump enough for e85 with an hx35 bolt on ~50lb/min? I was planning on running a bosch 044 in-line along with a 255 rewired in tank. Overkill or no? I also have 1200cc injectors.

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Thats plenty for 50 lbs/min. For a little extra insurance, spend a couple bucks and rewire the pump. You can also remove the banjo bolt and replace the filter to fuel rail line with -6 an line.

A local buddy of mine and I both flow exactly 54 lbs/min, calibrated, hes using a 1150's and I'm on 1600s, both on stock lines and a single 255 in tank. The ONLY difference is I have my banjo bolt removed and filter to rail line is -6 and a -6 fitting on the rail (the oem banjo bolt and rail fitting are huge bottle necks) and my pump is rewired and I'm at 75% IDC and hes at 95%. Those two little mods make a huge difference. I'm sure I'm near the pumps limit though, I don't see me getting anything more than 58 lbs/min out of it.

asd_gst said:

seriously everyone running holset and no one has a good pics of a -12 an return line on one?

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What do you need pics for? Its just two fittings and some hose.

Pull the pan off, weld a -12 on and port the pan out to -12 so theres no restrictions, then put it together. That is a setup that I would love to have as well. Maybe one day.

asd_gst said:

seriously everyone running holset and no one has a good pics of a -12 an return line on one?

Click to expand...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...-oil-drain-may-too-small-7.html#post151996034

asd_gst said:

seriously everyone running holset and no one has a good pics of a -12 an return line on one?

Click to expand...

Here ya go....

Artago said:

My new set up.....

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dsm-onster said:

MAtt, just get a grinder and round teh divider. Remove it from the chra first though . You don't need to knife-edge. Just radius it to prevent turbulance. Knife-edging with highvelocity makes for more turbulance than a radius with high velocity.

Click to expand...

Does anyone have a pic of a good radiused divider?

rampridersrider said:

Thats plenty for 50 lbs/min. For a little extra insurance, spend a couple bucks and rewire the pump. You can also remove the banjo bolt and replace the filter to fuel rail line with -6 an line.

A local buddy of mine and I both flow exactly 54 lbs/min, calibrated, hes using a 1150's and I'm on 1600s, both on stock lines and a single 255 in tank. The ONLY difference is I have my banjo bolt removed and filter to rail line is -6 and a -6 fitting on the rail (the oem banjo bolt and rail fitting are huge bottle necks) and my pump is rewired and I'm at 75% IDC and hes at 95%. Those two little mods make a huge difference. I'm sure I'm near the pumps limit though, I don't see me getting anything more than 58 lbs/min out of it.



What do you need pics for? Its just two fittings and some hose.

Pull the pan off, weld a -12 on and port the pan out to -12 so theres no restrictions, then put it together. That is a setup that I would love to have as well. Maybe one day.

Click to expand...

I already have it rewired. I also have a tank to rail kit from STM to be installed.