I'm just going to take a minigrinder to my garrett flange. I think there's enough meat on it. . .

I still have my old 2G return. I was thinking of cutting the center section out and putting in some SS line in the middle.

Tom

ApexVIII said:

quick question, does the hole on the actual oil pan need to be enlarged also?

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so is the stock size fine??

ApexVIII said:

so is the stock size fine??

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Well I assume the hole on the pan has to be greater than or equal to the size of the oil return line/fittings. If not, then it's a constriction.

I don't know what the size of the hole is on the pan but I will be doing my oil return sometime this weekend and I can measure it for you and post back.

Tom

here are some pics of my oil line and wastegate i rigged up. I know internal isnt the way to go, it will be replaced whene i get some extra cash

Hey guys im in the process of my building my 6bolt. As many of you know i will be running the big H1C holset. After readin threw all these post i decided to post up some pics of my oil return line setup. Feel free to comment and tell me what you think. I had to trim the front motor mount just a little bit to clear the an fittings.

What do you guys think justin and matt?

Looks great so far....I love what you've done with the eBay manifold to make it actually work with something other than a tiny T3 turbo in terms of clearing the block!

Check your oil pressure at the head before deciding to keep your oil feed there for good. There seems to be TONS of additional information popping up as to why certain turbos fail when fed from the head and others don't, and it seems that oil pressure can be too low at the head if the head has been milled too much, or if you're running a ported oil relief valve with balance shafts and oil squirters.

jusmx141 said:

Looks great so far....I love what you've done with the eBay manifold to make it actually work with something other than a tiny T3 turbo in terms of clearing the block!

Check your oil pressure at the head before deciding to keep your oil feed there for good. There seems to be TONS of additional information popping up as to why certain turbos fail when fed from the head and others don't, and it seems that oil pressure can be too low at the head if the head has been milled too much, or if you're running a ported oil relief valve with balance shafts and oil squirters.

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Thanks man. As far as the oil pressure from the head, I had already had that in mind after reading up on a forum on here about how to increase oil pressure to the head by porting out a passage by one of the head bolts. There was some pretty crazy information in the thread. Im gonna be running a mechanical autometer oil pressure gauge with all SS line and an fittings at the OFH. I also have another spare autometer electrical oil pressure gauge i was thinkin about running that on the head somewere. Do you think this would be a good idea or no? I would just need to find somewhere to tap into for the sending unit.

Try the hole on the front of the block right where you have the head feed from. It should have a allen plug.

Looks great. A 45 and the hose makes a sweeping 90 to the oil pan. No tight 90s.

I'd Tee right from the inlet to the CHRA. You'll know for absolite sure what your pressure is. . . But if you have a big line that is short (like usually what guys do when feeding from the head), then as mentioned above checking the pressure at the head on the port that has the allen screw sealing it beside the stock feed location should be fine.

dsm-onster said:

Looks great. A 45 and the hose makes a sweeping 90 to the oil pan. No tight 90s.

I'd Tee right from the inlet to the CHRA. You'll know for absolite sure what your pressure is. . . But if you have a big line that is short (like usually what guys do when feeding from the head), then as mentioned above checking the pressure at the head on the port that has the allen screw sealing it beside the stock feed location should be fine.

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Thanks matt i will just find the allen screw in the head and try and tap the oil pressure sending unit there. Ill see what happens and compare the difference from OFH to head.

Ok. I've been thinking about this for a while now and somethign just dawned on me. . .

jusmx141 said:

Information taken direct from the Holset service manual for the HX35/40:

Oil return pipes are permitted to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal. All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated connectors. To ensure oil drains into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan.


.525 " = 13.335 mm, which is WAY under the minimum required drain size for a Holset turbo. If you're using this fitting on your Holset, it's almost certainly going to restrict the oil drainage....possibly putting your turbo at risk for premature failure.

I think I'm on to something.

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Looking at my holset and garrett oil outlets on the turbo CHRA you will see a 19mm X 16mm rectangle. Doing a bit of trig you can come up with the area that a 19mm diameter CIRCLE will let oil fall into the drain pipe. . .



As you can see the flow area out of the turbo instantly is only 197.5mm^2. You MUST have 19mm diamter at the inlet of the drain tube to get to a 197.5mm^2 flow area; since the oil outlet at the turbo is rectangular, not circular. However, only a 15.9mm diamter circle would equal this area. So if your 19mm inlet to your drain tube transitions into a 16mm tube then you should be fine with flow.

So we likely don't need as much drain pipe diamter and drain pipe outlet flange diamter as we're thinking. As long as we have a 19mm diamter hole at the drain pipe inlet and it transitions to a 16mm dimater for the rest of the flow, we should be fine. Of course as mentioned many of the typical drain kit fittings render less flow area at the turbo than 199mm^2 at the drain pipe inlet and are lower than 16mm diameter at the outlet.

The drain hole in my oil pan is 14.8mm diameter. Widening the hole 1/2 mm around the circle certainly won't be something too much for the threaded bolt holes in the pan. And widening a drain tube outlet flange to 16mm is definately something that can be done with out compromizing the integrity of the flange. After this now you make sure your drain all you have to do is be sure that the coupling portion of the drain tube outlet flange is 16mm or larger inside diameter along with the piping itself up to the drain tube feed flange. At this point you need a 19mm hole transitioning to a 16mm hole to be fine.

Or this is what I'm doing. I'm having a 19mm hole at the drain tube feed and +19mm tubing to fit over the coupling that will have 19mm inside diameter. And transition to no less than 16mm at the outlet to the oil pan. Again not too much is removed from the oil pan to interfere with the bolt holes but you're still within the minimum flow area requirements of a holset. . . Not sure if this is what garret requires; since I've seen drain pipe feed holes 17mm in diamter, which leaves a flow area at the rectangular turbo oil outlet much smaller than what a holset requires per the manual.

My new set up.....

Looks great- is that -12AN?

I'd keep an eye on that hose to make sure it doesn't kink on you at some point. Even the braided steel hose can kink and once it does, the hose is ruined. It seems like once the braids develop that weak spot it never goes back to normal.

If you were to change only one thing....I'd make the top fitting a 45* also so the hose will have less of a bend on it, lessening the chance for a kink.

jusmx141 said:

Looks great- is that -12AN?

I'd keep an eye on that hose to make sure it doesn't kink on you at some point. Even the braided steel hose can kink and once it does, the hose is ruined. It seems like once the braids develop that weak spot it never goes back to normal.

If you were to change only one thing....I'd make the top fitting a 45* also so the hose will have less of a bend on it, lessening the chance for a kink.

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Yeah that's -12 AN. I actually ordered two 45* fittings but they are too long and the ends left for 0 hose space. I had to swap one with a straight fitting to make it work.

So far, I'm happy with the new setup. The turbo smoke is almost completely gone, but I did lower the oil pressure as well. Only a little smoking left but I think the turbo is shot because it has some shaft play. No contact with the housing yet though. I'm pretty sure the old oil drain had something to do with that because it's brand new turbo and I hacve treated it gingerly. All in all, I'm happy with the result, too bad my clutch broke a finger and I gotta drop the tranny to replace it.

Tom

PS: Do you know where I can get a BEP DSM in/out exhaust housing for cheap? I have a spare turbo I want to rebuild but I need a new exhaust housing because the bolts seized in the old one and I had to cut them off.

Artago said:

My new set up.....

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i might be a little retarted but why do you have hose clamps on the lines?

asd_gst said:

i might be a little retarted but why do you have hose clamps on the lines?

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Well.... they aren't really needed but better safe than sorry i guess. Even without the clamps I have to use a vice grip and both hands to disconnect the fitting from the hose.

So yeah... not needed but better safe than sorry.

Tom

Oh ok thats what i thought. Did you weld all your own stuff or have someone do it? And is your turbo still fine?

What if the oil pan was modified with a box like design fabed and welded onto the pan with either a flange or opening at the top of it to connect the drain hose to. It does not need to be large but maybe move this "box" design inbetween the bolt holes for the oil pan so clearence for the oil pan bolts isn't an issue.

ok so i got some -12 an fittings and can this even fit on a hx40? It looks like the fitting is to big to get used for a drain. Can i get some pics of a holset with -12 an line?

Um, look up seven posts or so.

Thats a BW not a holset

Keep scrolling up.

Wasnt sure if that one was -12 an or not. It looks like its going to be a really close fit on the hx40. Im uploading pics right now

You can grind a half-moon shape in the compressor cover once it's clocked properly to gain a little clearance between the fitting and the cover.