I searched this but couldn't get a good answer. I'm looking to get some more downforce on the back of my 2gb. I bought it almost 10 years ago from a salvage yard and it never had the turbo wing. The car now has much more HP than stock, and I'm looking at doing some road racing this year. The few times I gotten a good pull with the car, when I roll off throttle, and get on the brakes I can feel the back getting loose. I want to put a functional, non-ricer looking wing on the back of this rig. I know wings are like rims in that there is a personal style involved, but I need function over form at this point. Any direction I can be pointed would be appreciated. Thanks.

If anybody can help you it would be Gixxerdrew
He did a lot of landspeed stuff, and now he does road race, his car is nuts with lots of custom aero stuff

DSM Forums - View Profile: gixxerdrew

what about this one:
95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2dr Aristo Carbon Fiber Trunk Spoiler Octane Motorsports

Or there is the OEM style:
95 99 Eclipse 2G Real CARBON FIBER WING SPOILER : eBay Motors (item 200428014951 end time Jan-20-10 18:26:20 PST)

Or I like this one:
95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse Carbon Fiber Lip Wing Spoiler : eBay Motors (item 130359012270 end time Jan-21-10 10:12:33 PST)

Redwidow said:

what about this one:
95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2dr Aristo Carbon Fiber Trunk Spoiler Octane Motorsports

Or there is the OEM style:
95 99 Eclipse 2G Real CARBON FIBER WING SPOILER : eBay Motors (item 200428014951 end time Jan-20-10 18:26:20 PST)

Or I like this one:
95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse Carbon Fiber Lip Wing Spoiler : eBay Motors (item 130359012270 end time Jan-21-10 10:12:33 PST)

Click to expand...

that octane one I like. My car is completely stock on the outside, with 96 sideskirts, so I want to keep it clean looking. That lip one is cool too, from an asthetic point of view. Not to sure how much downforce it's going to produce tough.

Yea thats just it, is figuring out how much down force you need and how much each wing is going to give you so that you can get one that is good looking and that works.

Redwidow said:

Or I like this one:
95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse Carbon Fiber Lip Wing Spoiler : eBay Motors (item 130359012270 end time Jan-21-10 10:12:33 PST)

Click to expand...

Anybody have this one on the their car yet? I would like to see pics of it if so.

If you are serious, you are going to want to get a wing that is taller than that to get it up into the cleaner air along with it being adjustable.

greengoblin said:

If you are serious, you are going to want to get a wing that is taller than that to get it up into the cleaner air along with it being adjustable.

Click to expand...

Yeah...adjustability is also something I'm looking for. I suppose I'll just have to get one of those 4 foot adjustable ones.

It doesn't sound like an aero-issue at all from how you described it. Actually take your car to the track, learn it, feel it and adjust accordingly.
The links posted above are not going to suit your needs for a wing that creates real downforce. Check out APR Performance for a rear wing.

Or throw in a 50lb sand bag in the rear.

^^ Agreed! I love red neck tech, it just makes more sense. if your rears giving out just add weight problem solved!

Yea look at APR. Or +1ings.

could always move the battery to the trunk.

I meant ings+1. These and APR would be the only functional ones I can think of. They are pricey though.

How about a 4 wheel alignment before anything? Or maybe take a look at your brakes to make sure none are hanging up?


I highly doubt you need downforce.

I've got the power slot two piece 12.5 inch rotors up front. K-sport coilovers all around, Trust me I know what I'm feeling on my car. Hard on the brakes, I get the nose squating down, like it's suppossed to, but the back feels all squimesh. I have the poly bushings through out the rear, and a sway bar upgrade in the rear. I went to a couple of track days, and I also attended the skip barber 3 and 2 day advanced forumla racing schools. I also crew chiefed for a regional scca camaro race team that won two championships in the nyssrc and naarc regional racing series, so I have some experience with racecars. It just feels like the back is wanting to come around when on the brakes hard. I may also put in a brake bias control of some kind. But thats not whats going to help my issue. I was actually thinking of a Kinda of Nascar style spoiler. The older kind not the new one. I guess I'll just have to do some more research.

I still don't think it's an aero issue at all. Where are you getting these inputs from the car? On the street or at the track?

123abc said:

How about a 4 wheel alignment before anything? Or maybe take a look at your brakes to make sure none are hanging up?


I highly doubt you need downforce.

Click to expand...

Flash said:

I still don't think it's an aero issue at all. Where are you getting these inputs from the car? On the street or at the track?

Click to expand...

A little of both. I understand that there no way to drive as hard on the street as you do on a track. To try to would be idiotic. It's just something I noticed a couple of times. The only thing I have is the battery in the back. I don't have a factory spoiler, though I'm not sure that it does much in the first place. I know what I'm feeling. It's hard to describe. Like at the e-town roadcourse, albeit small there is a point where you get some decent speed into a sweeping left into a hard left. When you transition to the brakes, you're still arcing the sweeper. It's then, when I get into the brakes to make the harder left, while in the sweeper, I feel this unsetteledness in the back. The car is setup to produce a bit more oversteer (stiff in the back, not so much in the front) and it's not like trailing brake oversteer, or tailing throttle oversteer, it just feels wobbely. I would've thought that by adding some rear downforce to it, it would help keep that back more planted in a situation where you get this pitch vs yaw scenario. With the car pitching forward, and taking the weight off the back, and then turning the car while still slowing the car. Just an idea.

Oh and I'm a mechanic, and one of the first things I did was an alignment, I've got control of camber in the rear but not in the front yet. I'm going to get those adjustable upper fronts when I get some cash.

It's not a downforce issue.

Also, all the "wings" linked below won't make any difference on a car. They're for looks (even though they look quite ugly in my opinion), and not for function. Look at real racecars for an idea for wing design. These have none.

These cars, for what they are, are actually quite stable at high speed (assuming a half-decent suspension setup, correct alignment, and good-condition suspension bushings). The 2g even in stock form has a very good Cd (around .28-.29).

Look elsewhere for your problem. You say you aligned it yourself and you're a mechanic. No offense, but I've been to places that specialize in alignments, and have great feedback, that should be nowhere near a car used for racing. Take it to a real alignment shop that sees more than mid-90's Corollas. If you're next in line after a Lotus Exige that looks like it's had more track miles than street miles, you've come to the right place.

What kind of tires are you running? I've had tires that were a little too wide for the wheel, and tires that had soft sidewalls, that produced an unnerving feeling much like you're describing. For a 225 section width tire, you should be minimum on a 7.5" wide wheel. For 235s, 8", and for 255s, 9". Buy a proper track-ready tire, like a Direzza Star Spec, Falken Azenis (not great for long track days especially in the summer due to overheating, but amazing sidewall stiffness), Toyo RA1, NT01, or any Advan from Yokohama.

Also, check your braking system. It sounds like it happens only under braking. I know there's also a lot of weight transferring off the rear, but I doubt that's the cause. Re-bleed the entire system and make sure the car doesn't pull under heavy braking. Try hitting the brakes hard from 60 mph and letting go of the wheel (make sure it's a smooth road to avoid any bump-steer input). The car should brake smoothly and straight. Does the back-end always come around the same direction? Disable ABS (pull the fuse). What tires lock first? These cars, with a close to stock braking system, tend to lock the fronts first, with the rears close behind (in my experience).

I've done several track days, braked hard from well over 120 mph, and have never experienced a feeling like that, unless I was trying to turn (not good), and I don't even have poly suspension bushings yet.

Don't ignore the front suspension either. How low is your car? The lower control arms in the front should be level with the ground, or point slightly upwards toward the car's centerline. The rear should then be slightly higher or level with the front. Any lower than that and you're negatively affecting the car's suspension geometry.

You could also ask other people at the tracks where they are getting their alignments done. That is a good way to find a place that specializes in track cars.

Thanks...thats the input I wanted. Kumho ecsta mx 225 45 17, The ABS has been disable'd for some time now. Fronts tend to lock up first in almost all situations. I agree that the wings mentioned weren't awesome, but they were from people who wanted to help, So I appreciate their help. I used to align the racecar I used to work on, and have a very firm handle on alignment. Perhaps I'll go over it since it was a while since I did it. Thanks for all the input folks. Much appreciated.

If you're getting over-steer during trail-braking into a corner, try:
- less rebound damping in the rear
- smaller anti-roll bar in the rear
- more compression damping in the front

How is the car on a medium/high-speed turn when you are not on the brakes?

Also, as 'eclipsegsx1736' asked, how is the braking in a straight line? Which wheel locks up first?

Also, are there any bumps / dips in that sweeper you're experiencing oversteer on?

There's a sweeper at my local track that I can normally take a WOT, but there's a slight bump at the apex which causes the rear end to get a little loose. Next season I'm gonna try the stock rear sway bar (versus RM) to see if that helps keep the rear in line.

gsxitement said:

Thanks...thats the input I wanted. Kumho ecsta mx 225 45 17, The ABS has been disable'd for some time now. Fronts tend to lock up first in almost all situations. I agree that the wings mentioned weren't awesome, but they were from people who wanted to help, So I appreciate their help. I used to align the racecar I used to work on, and have a very firm handle on alignment. Perhaps I'll go over it since it was a while since I did it. Thanks for all the input folks. Much appreciated.

Click to expand...

If you are running with the ABS disabled have you properly switched it to non-ABS (lines and prop valve)? May not have anything to do with this problem but just throwing it out there.

JMGSX said:

If you are running with the ABS disabled have you properly switched it to non-ABS (lines and prop valve)? May not have anything to do with this problem but just throwing it out there.

Click to expand...

no, I plan on removing the rest of the abs system shortly, with the bias as I mentioned earlier. As for the bump steer ideas, those seem pretty feasible. There is deff. some oscillation while acring in.I'm going to be doing some work o it this week.