^^I seen that one. I know it can be done, the diesel guys have done it before. I would just like some info so I can be prepared when I talk to my machinist.

Installed my hx-35 a couple months ago and I just started having an issue with the boost fluctuating. It seems to only happen in 5th gear when flooring it from about 60-75. Only running about 17psi right now and at full boost my boost gauge bounces back and forth from about 14-17psi quickly. Second and third gear pulls hold steady to red line. Fixed some small boost leaks but it's still there. Running ebay 38mm off o2. Any ideas?

Does anyone here have some experience with automatic DSM's with bigger-than-stock turbos (on the stock converter & a 2.0)?

I'm running a 91 GSX automatic; WH1C; bolton housing; wastegate on ebay SS o2 housing; no intercooler; no exhaust; E85; DS-Map speed density; stock longblock; stock trans & converter. This car is going to suck at the dragstrip, as I can't launch it at all (brake-boosting my 1G auto with a 14B can burn the tires taking off).

I haven't yet played with ignition timing at all to try get some boost (haven't yet logged a launch attempt to see what my timing is doing); if that doesn't work I'm going to have to get a re-stalled converter or a 2.4L.

It seems to spool up pretty quick on the road. When the tach hits 3500, I get full boost and it instantly jumps to 4000. I love this turbo so far, I just need to be able to take off decent.

GST95 said:

Remember that these recommendations are based on 15w40 mineral oil that is also recommended. This oil is extrememly thick when used in cold climates and drains very slow compared to even 10w40.

here is a good visual.

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In my semi, i noticed a huge difference in cold (below freezing) start cranking speed from going from 15w40 mineral to 5w40 synthetic. The 5w40 cranked over as if it was the middle of summer.

Click to expand...

I agree with this statement. I have about 10,000 miles on my HX-40 with unknown miles on it before I got it from the a scrap pile. -4AN supply, no restrictor, balance shafts eliminated, oil relief ported with 60 psi oil pressure at start-up, 10 psi at idle, 55-60 psi cruising on the highway, and 65 psi at redline, -10 AN drain with the stop hole in the pan opened up to the -10 AN size. No smoking, no shaft play. The only difference I may have is I'm only running 7 psi since I don't have injectors or tuning.

jrohner said:

Does anyone here have some experience with automatic DSM's with bigger-than-stock turbos (on the stock converter & a 2.0)?

Click to expand...

You need to have speaks with this DSMer:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/353498-holset-turbos-part-7-a-2.html#post152041054

So to cut it bold and dry, will a -10AN be enough for the HX35? Some people are saying no and some are saying they are running with it fine. I already bought the damn thing.

jjrock5 said:

So to cut it bold and dry, will a -10AN be enough for the HX35? Some people are saying no and some are saying they are running with it fine. I already bought the damn thing.

Click to expand...

As stated before, it really comes down to oil viscosity and temp. If you are running 20w50 mineral oil in really cold weather, probably not. If you are running 0w20 synthetic, without a doubt.

I ran both a WH1C with 220k miles on it and a new HX40 with a -10an/stock drain and 5w30 synthetic all last summer without any issues.

jjrock5 said:

So to cut it bold and dry, will a -10AN be enough for the HX35? Some people are saying no and some are saying they are running with it fine. I already bought the damn thing.

Click to expand...

I'm running a 5/8th hose out the bottom of the my HX35 running to a cut down piece of the stock 1g return line. I'm running a N/T 6 bolt block, no B/S, OFH has been ported and runs around 25 psi at idle and around 80-90 at WOT, 15w50 Mobil 1, -4 feed from OFH with a .078 restrictor. I have around 1k miles on this setup over the past year (Weekend toy) and have no problems yet. About 200 miles were at 20 psi and 300 miles were at 30 psi. Spool is great, no shaft play, no smoking, and TONS of top end. Car NEVER stops pulling all the way to 8k. AWD Highway car. Haha

im running fp oil drain kit.. 65 bucks 15-40 mobile one 100 psi oil presure at wot 65-75 crusing. No issues what so ever.

^ ^ But your incoming flow is restricted to .078", which makes a difference on how the turbo drains. Less oil volume in the cartridge = better ability to drain through a smaller drain hose.

big_d said:

I understand this, I just don't want people thinking that this drain is an end all solution to Holset oiling. It seems that the best results for longevity have been achieved by a custom drain setup with a fitting welded to a n/t pan and larger lines.

Just curious, how did you end up running your return on your Wh1c?

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What i ended up with was something very similar to this.. The guy no longer sells the fitting, from what i see, that i got..

OBX OIL DRAIN FITTING GARRETT T3 T4 TURBO 5/8" HOSE : eBay Motors (item 160392973999 end time Jan-17-10 09:40:20 PST)

Then I went to NAPA and got 6in of 3/4(19mm) oil resistant tubing. I got a 2g stock oil drain and cut it about 2 inches from the coiled part. I applied some black gasket maker to both unions and used worm clamps.. It came out very well.. I ran no restrictor becuase I am all stock bottom end and on start up I see 75psi of oil.. So im above the required but when I first start driving I make sure not to boost.. So far so good... I DD this car..

viperlp01 said:

What i ended up with was something very similar to this.. The guy no longer sells the fitting, from what i see, that i got..

OBX OIL DRAIN FITTING GARRETT T3 T4 TURBO 5/8" HOSE : eBay Motors (item 160392973999 end time Jan-17-10 09:40:20 PST)

Then I went to NAPA and got 6in of 3/4(19mm) oil resistant tubing. I got a 2g stock oil drain and cut it about 2 inches from the coiled part. I applied some black gasket maker to both unions and used worm clamps.. It came out very well.. I ran no restrictor becuase I am all stock bottom end and on start up I see 75psi of oil.. So im above the required but when I first start driving I make sure not to boost.. So far so good... I DD this car..

Click to expand...

Another way that would work would be to get something like

OBX OIL DRAIN FITTING Turbo T3 T4 TURBO 1/2" NPT : eBay Motors (item 160392973992 end time Jan-17-10 09:40:20 PST)

and

Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed Straight : eBay Motors (item 110400428154 end time Feb-03-10 20:10:44 PST)


and then go the same way for the bottom part / 2g drain.

Yeah the parts from the two links above look like they would work well with a section of oil resistant hose clamped on to the brass piece and a hacked off stock oil return line going in to the oil pan, weather 1g or 2g.

i have a couple of question. im getting a hy35 for very cheap with only 55000 miles on it . from a 2001 dodge. has anyone used this turbo at all, and what are the results from it. and if someone has any picture or info on how i can mount my fmic with this turbo would be great it is a greddy with both pipe going to the passenger side of the car, and its auto. it is coming with the stock os housing i can use it right by just adding a pipe and getting it weld to my downpipe. please help im new with the turbo and set up. i only paid 100 for it. perfect sharp will post picture in a minute thanks

here are the picture

First of all wow I can't believe you guys are on post 7. I've not been on the forums in a long time and am selling my car as it is but thought I'd check out what was going on anyways. Yes you can clear the mount and run to the passenger side for a Greddy style FMIC (thats what I have) its close but long as you get the compressor clocked just right it does work. Mine has a 90 off the compressor housing and goes right across the cross member(touching the mount) to the pass side using the lower intercooler piping that came with the kit. Its tight but it fits. Just keep an eye on the coupler for rubbing

As for the HY I'm sure you can find people with 4g63s running them and find closer results but I know that on the g54b(conquest motor 2.6L) people loved the HY over the HX as when they first started using them there was no BEP housings and the HY spooled faster due to a smaller housing. I've ran my HX-35 (with BEP .55AR housing) for about 18months now at 19psi without meth and 28psi with it. Never had an issue and it hits hard as hell

you have picture of it installed that can send so i know actually what u r talking about ot would help out alot and what r the best to run 450-500hp

^Could you please rephrase that with proper english so we can understand your question

Time for new thread.

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Hopefully that helps. HX35 and meth will get you to that power level

sorry abt .what r the best supporting mods to reach 450-500horsepower .im wanting to get into mid to low 11's with hy35 setup. i hope this better english to read

Back the newb section man....you're in the wrong section for questions like that. You're not texting your friends here either. You have a keyboard. Make use of it.

sorry not a newbie ok. i have common sense i was just so if anyone can help with being a dk please let me know . thanks

You need all the other supporting mods any turbo that is capable of making that kinda power will need. Injectors(650s min), probably meth or race gas, intercooler, something to tune with(DSM Link), fuel pump(walbro 255), FPR, clutch, etc etc etc. You can get away with stock block stuff and trans for a while. You'll need a T3 Exh manifold and custom O2 housing/downpipe if you wanna use the HY Exhaust housing. HY is a good turbo too and should get you there.

I'm not trying to be an ass...ok maybe a lil but this is relatively simple stuff not specifically related to a holset turbo, and youre posts were both barely intelligible.

For reference this is right above the posting box:
Use proper spelling, grammar, and punctuation when posting in our Tech Forums - don't use texting/instant messaging lingo here. This isn't an English class, but we demand that you at least make an attempt or your posts will be deleted. Internet Explorer users should download IEspell or just use Firefox since it has spell check built-in.


And to put my foot in my mouth
No "Use the Search" replies - answer the question, link to the answer, or don't reply.

95GSXT said:

i have a couple of question. im getting a hy35 for very cheap with only 55000 miles on it . from a 2001 dodge. has anyone used this turbo at all, and what are the results from it. and if someone has any picture or info on how i can mount my fmic with this turbo would be great it is a greddy with both pipe going to the passenger side of the car, and its auto. it is coming with the stock os housing i can use it right by just adding a pipe and getting it weld to my downpipe. please help im new with the turbo and set up. i only paid 100 for it. perfect sharp will post picture in a minute thanks

Click to expand...

Review this thread. He used the HE351 which utilizes the same size housing your HY35 has but your's has the typical HX35 downpipe flange. (The HE series is different) His HE351 has a larger compressor like a HX40, but it should have very similiar spool characteristics due to the 9cm housing. You mount it similiar to anyone here that has a HX35. Please review the results thread for some engine shots or read through a couple of the later holset threads and you should find several pictures of said systems. The first post in this thread has many links listed and references.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/327688-holset-he351cw.html

As the others pointed out from your follow up posts, please take the time to review your post for spelling errors and sentence structure. We don't expect perfection, but an honest attempt is required. Don't use any texting short-hand. Everyone here would like to help and give pointers, but the interest disappears if you can't even write a coherent sentence. Thanks.

There's been a lot of interesting posts about oil drains in this thread. A lot of questions as to why the oil drain has to be so big. I haven't had this problem yet on my car so haven't had to experiment with it.
But I'm thinking this: Maybe the oil drain hose has to be a big enough diameter so that the hose always runs "partially full" rather than "full". If the hose ever runs full, then whatever pressure there is in the crankcase will want to push the oil in the return hose back up into the CHRA. If the hose and fittings are flowing partially full, then there is an air passage all the way through from the pan to the CHRA. That lets the air pressure in the pan and the CHRA be equal. Then the oil is free to go downhill like it is supposed to! Which brings up another item, that the slope of the entire return hose should be down, no "up" to it anywhere. Because any "up slope" part of the hose would run full.

Pretty picture of a part-full pipe: