The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

My 90 GST Find

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AjWit

15+ Year Contributor
147
0
Apr 24, 2008
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
So i found this 90 GST on the local craigslist. Says that it has all these great things but he cant get it to turn over. Wants 1000 or best offer. Well today, i sent my brother out there with a tow truck, and now i have an eclipse. I got it for 600, payed my tow truck buddy 80 for the 20 mile haul on a flat bed(car is FWD, i know it didnt need to).

He claims it has .30 over JE pistons and scat rods(we'll see when i open it up). It does has an evo FMIC with raptor piping, turbo xs BOV, tial external wastegate re-routed, 550cc RC inj, 3" turbo back apexi, hks elbow, hks turbo timer, apexi safc 2, blitz egt, Gauges: boost, water temp, oil pressure, volts, and a narrow air/fuel. It has been dynomatted and is sitting on kyb gr2's and eibachs.
EDIT: Small 16G Turbo, front and rear strut tower bars.

It cranks, but no start. I havent had a chance to play with it yet and may not for another month or two. But i picked up a 6-bolt with oem pistons and rods, brand new bearings, brand new rings, new belts, and new gaskets. I also got a 16g, 2g maf with wiring, tubular mani and other randoms with the 6-bolt pick up, all for $250 last week. So if the engine i have in the car has no compression(rings), then looks like im swapping the one from the car with the one on the engine stand. Wish me luck, i should be at the shootout with this car in august,...if nothing makor happens before then. <you know it always does though.

EDIT: New problem in post #14

Take a peek at it if you're bored.
90 gst 5 speed tons of parts
 
Last edited:
I live about 10 miles, west pittsburgh. Neville Island, Coraopolis to be exact. If you havent heard of those, then its by Mckees Rocks or Moon Township.
 
Thanks, i just have to find a way to make it all work now. I sold my non running AWD 5-speed for 1000 two weeks ago. But now i have a more modified car, and a spare 6-bolt and parts for 900. Im hoping that the rest of the process wont kill the piggy bank, i need to complete this for 1000 or less. I mean another thousand, haha. Not like only a 1000 total. Im going to try and do a basic diagnosis today or tomorrow, compression and timing checks. From there, may have to get a Leak down completed to find the real culprit of this non-starting engine. Ill keep it updated as i go.
 
UPDATE: i dont want to be optimistic yet, but the cranking is really slow, almost seems like a battery/starter problem, ill have to check into it. since i cant get it to start, im not sure how im going to get an accurate compression reading, i have the checker/tool to do it for a couple days so i need to get it done real soon.

hell, i guess this place isnt too bad and i can share some semi-personal stuff with. I am currently on house arrest, thats the reason im being kinda lazy about going to do these things to the new car, i have to have my brother go outside and do all this stuff. By the way, he is no mechanic, cant even swap an alternator in his 3000gt. So i kind of have to tell him every little detail and instruction on what to do to my car. So i cant have him do anything big for me, i'd rather wait another 2 months and do it myself.

Wish me luck guys. haha.
 
Hey guys, first problem that i diagnosed was that the plug wires were in the wrong order, they're all good now. 1-4-3-2. Timing marks on the cam gears seem to be matching up fine as well. So timing and spark shouldnt be my issue now. But, since i had a slow cranking situation, i hooked up jumper cables to it from my running car. The volts according to the in cabin meter read 14.0 volts when i do, but as soon as i attempt to start it, then pull the key back, it falls to 2.0 volts.
Could this mean there is a bad connection somewhere?
 
Awesome find man. If I was on house arrest, I would ask to transfer to Garage arrest LOL. That's gotta suck not being able to work on a new car. Have you touched it yet? That's like putting Chocolate in front of a baby behind a door gate.
 
Like i mentioned im not actually able to touch it myself. I have to get my brother to go do anything i want done to it. For example, i cant even pull codes since he doesnt know how to, ill try and explain it to him again today and hopefully he'll comprehend it better.

Anybodys thoughts on post #14 yet?
 
Try switching in the battery from the good car, maybe the one in it has a few bad cells.
also your brother might not have even try'd to tighten the batt cables?
The only time I had a problem like that the batt was SCREWED.
It is cranking but just not wanting to fire up?
 
Pull the car into the living room! Open the window and hang out with your leg inside. LOL. Good luck, sounds like you found a gem.
 
Try switching in the battery from the good car, maybe the one in it has a few bad cells.
also your brother might not have even try'd to tighten the batt cables?
The only time I had a problem like that the batt was SCREWED.
It is cranking but just not wanting to fire up?

OK just to clarify i tid bit. The battery terminals are not corroded and are tightened down. A second, good running car is started up, then he runs the jumpers to the dsm's battery. Lets it go for a lil while, then gets in the dsm and tries to start, it cranks, slower than usual, but does not start. It doesnt even sound like its almost going to start, its like its just cranking. The in cabin autometer digital volt meter says 14 volts when the key is turned forward, but after the start up is failed, the volts drop all the way to 2 and then slowly build back up to 12v without doing anything. Note, the jumper cables to the running car are still in place and have never been removed yet. Ill try a new battery if thats the consensus but i dont know... Ill try and get codes for ya by tomorrow.
 
Do a wet and dry compression test. Take the battery to a local parts store. They can charge it and check for a bad cell. My buddy had this same problem, burnt up 3 alts in the process. Just a bad battery.
 
I'm not saying go buy a new battery just to see if that's what it is.
I was thinking just switching them and see if it still needs a jump and if it cranks any different.
 
Take the battery out and have it tested. Most auto parts stores will be able to diagnose a bad battery with a simple test. With it being as cold as it's been here lately and the car not running I'm thinking the battery is dead/ruined but get it tested anyway. Me being the pessimist that I am I'm betting the battery isn't the main problem but rather the result of it sitting for a long time. Since it is a problem at the moment I'd start with the battery and go from there.
 
I hear you guys, i have to remove the strut tower bar to get it out. Next time i guess. Thanks for the comments guys.
 
Does the battery neg have a separate ground cable tht runs straight to one of the starter mounting bolts on the tranny?

I'd probably take the starter to get tested also make sure it is good. Testing stuff at Adv Auto is free before you have start throwing money at the problem. :thumb:
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top