The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

ARP Rod Bolts or HG

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AjWit

15+ Year Contributor
147
0
Apr 24, 2008
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Sorry for the random question in advance, but here is my very small dilemna. I dont have enough money (here we go with this story again right).
So i need to make a decision about using a good MLS head gasket, stock rod bolts, and arp head studs. OR... using arp rod bolts, a graphite HG, and arp studs. Basically, of the two, which sounds a lil more legit for reliability. Oh, 15-18 psi on an evo III by the way.

Im using arp head studs regardless, both the block and the head have been milled/decked. The 6 bolt engine already has the pistons and rods in the chambers with stock rod bolts in the rods, but not attached to the crank yet, just kinda sitting there. Im using 1G stock pistons, 1G rods, honed standard size cylinders, ACL bearings, Mitsu Timing belt.

Please answer the question, and not just tell me to wait and do both. Ive already come to realize i wont have money to do both until way too far from now. As a thank you, pictures of my rebuild.

There is nothing wrong with the third piston, its just the light, it actually shines like the rest of them.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


If you'll notice, no end caps on the rods, see! So before i do that, i want this question answered. Thanks again.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I would use the stock rod bolts since your only gonna run 15-18 psi, and I read somewhere that the stock(new of course) composite head gaskets are better?
 
well do you feel like pulling the rods back out and taking them to the machine shop ? becuz when you install new rod bolts you are suppose to have them resized. and there is a reason for it. the rod bolts keep the caps aligned on the rods. if you dont ,you take a chance of them being offset by even a thousandths or two with new rod bolts. and the offset bearing will squeegee the oil off of the bearing. thus starving the bearing of oil and premature failure.
 
Stock rod bolts it is! Thank you. Now to decide on a HG. Mitsubishi graphite one maybe. Without crazy boost i dont see why an OEM style one wont hold 18 lbs with apr head studs, right?
 
well do you feel like pulling the rods back out and taking them to the machine shop ? becuz when you install new rod bolts you are suppose to have them resized. and there is a reason for it. the rod bolts keep the caps aligned on the rods. if you dont ,you take a chance of them being offset by even a thousandths or two with new rod bolts. and the offset bearing will squeegee the oil off of the bearing. thus starving the bearing of oil and premature failure.

I agree if it's a 6 bolt. The 9mm rod bolts are overkill unless you are going for more power than the rods themselves can handle. Ideally the rod bottom should be resized on every rebuild but rarely are. Check the bearing with plastigauge before final assembly. If its a 7 bolt the rod bolts aren't as strong but should still hold the power you are looking for.
Mike
 
Yes, just use the composite OEM HG and get the ARP head studs. New rod bolts without getting the rods honed when torqued down can cause them to be out of round due to the different bolt and torque applied.

People have gone to the mid-hi 20s on the composite HG so you will be fine with your boost level. IMO if you aren't planning on going too high for HP/boost, I think the stock bolts would be fine (6 bolt) as they are already larger than the 7 bolt head studs by a mm. Just saying because you are tight on cash as you stated.
 
Thanks for comments guys. And thank you LiduidX for realizing that im not trying to skimp, its just that im not trying to get 400hp. Around 300hp is fine with me, and stock internals seemed to be able to do that.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top