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looking foor 300awhp

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mainerdsm

10+ Year Contributor
689
2
Dec 16, 2009
Portland, Maine
So Ya Im basically looking to get 300awhp outta my talon. Here's a list so far what i've done and the previous owner have done.

K&N INtake, Turbo Xs bpv, rebuilt motor 4k miles ago, full turbo back 3" exhaust,3" down pipe, stage 3 exedy/xtd clutch, a/c removed ( i know only like 3hp at the crank but phh it help's). Balance shaft removed and dump tube mod.

And today i just ordered a manual boost control, and tommorow I'm picking up a boost gauge. Now Im thinking 15lbs and all my upgrade's will get me close. IF Im mistaken please let me know. Because stock motor fresh is 210whp if Im right. So Thinking about it since this is my first Dsm Im guessing 280 290awhp. Im probably wrong but I can hope.
 
So Ya Im basically looking to get 300awhp outta my talon. Here's a list so far what i've done and the previous owner have done.

K&N INtake, Turbo Xs bpv, rebuilt motor 4k miles ago, full turbo back 3" exhaust,3" down pipe, stage 3 exedy/xtd clutch, a/c removed ( i know only like 3hp at the crank but phh it help's). Balance shaft removed and dump tube mod.

And today i just ordered a manual boost control, and tommorow I'm picking up a boost gauge. Now Im thinking 15lbs and all my upgrade's will get me close. IF Im mistaken please let me know. Because stock motor fresh is 210whp if Im right. So Thinking about it since this is my first Dsm Im guessing 280 290awhp. Im probably wrong but I can hope.

It will take a little more then that to get your goals!! You will need a bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors, AFC, or ECMtuning/dsmlink, some bigger cams, big16g turbo or bigger, and I'd say around 20-23psi to do this.. One of my friends had every thing i said and only dynoed at 295 awhp on a mustang dyno at buschur shop..
 
You definately do not need cams to get 300hp out of our cars. I had a blown hybrid 16g and was still pulling 300awhp. Everything else that talondave said was right on the money. You need a bigger turbo, and more fuel to mix with all that extra air. Yer gonna need that engine management to be able to make your engine run right with all that jazz. The mustang dyno is the hardest to pull high numbers on, though.

I would recommend:
190lph fuel pump
16g turbo
550-650cc injectors
ECMLink (you've got the EPROM ECU, right? Use it!!)
Hard intercooler piping (the stock rubber expands as you add boost)
wideband O2 sensor (so you don't run too lean and blow your newly rebuilt engine)

ECMLink makes tuning WAYYYYY too easy. It automatically looks at your logs and can adjust your fuel accordingly.
 
Going with hard intercooler piping would help but for close to the same money he could pick up a FMIC with short route unless you can find some piping used. Lets face it you know your gonna want more than 300 hp shortly.
 
True enough about the FMIC, but with that comes the very real risk of overheating. I had 300hp on the little stock intercooler, but had quite a bit of knock in 3rd and 4th gears. You can get a decent FMIC for about 300-500$
 
Because stock motor fresh is 210whp if Im right. So Thinking about it since this is my first Dsm Im guessing 280 290awhp. Im probably wrong but I can hope.

Stock 2g is 210 at the motor, brah. Not the wheels. And you won't be making anywhere near those numbers on your T25. However, worring about only whp with a build is begging for failure and total disapointment.
 
Punishment Racing FMIC kit ftw! I'm getting one for my new build. I've heard nothing but good things. If you're on a budget, you can pick up an Evo VIII or IX FMIC for cheap and either have piping custom made or buy a pipe kit. 550cc injectors, 190lph fuel pump, and a B16G should suit your needs just fine. DSMLink wouldn't hurt, but again, if you're on a bit of a budget, an SAFC II or Neo will suit you fine. Remember to get a datalogger so you know what's going on.
 
The overheating issue is true but he deleted his a/c so bye bye condensor, less air restriction. I upgraded my cooling system to compensate. mishimoto radiator, slim fans, coolant change, and a cooler thermostat. Always trade offs and with that always comes spending more money! LOL
 
Im not really on a budget, just sold my 240sx that i basically bought for $300 (traded a truck i paid $300 for, and traded even trade) and i just cold it for $1200 and about $800 going towards some fines i have accumulated. So Ill have roughly $500 to spend so fmic, and fergulus made a good point i have a 95 so I have a eprom ecu so ecmlink and there's a 16g rebuilt turbo i can buy off craigslist for $200 :D
 
I Said cams, so when you do dyno the car your holding power up to 7000rpms insted of droping off at 5500rpms.. If you don't run better cams, you might as well shift at 6000rpms, anything after that is wasting time!!!
 
You definately do not need cams to get 300hp out of our cars. I had a blown hybrid 16g and was still pulling 300awhp. Everything else that talondave said was right on the money. You need a bigger turbo, and more fuel to mix with all that extra air. Yer gonna need that engine management to be able to make your engine run right with all that jazz. The mustang dyno is the hardest to pull high numbers on, though.

I would recommend:
190lph fuel pump
16g turbo
550-650cc injectors
ECMLink (you've got the EPROM ECU, right? Use it!!)
Hard intercooler piping (the stock rubber expands as you add boost)
wideband O2 sensor (so you don't run too lean and blow your newly rebuilt engine)

ECMLink makes tuning WAYYYYY too easy. It automatically looks at your logs and can adjust your fuel accordingly.


I agree. This is pretty much what I have done to my car. Link is showing 330-340 hp. I don't know if that is supposed to be to the wheels or the crank though. Those mods will get you really close. I can't stress enough the importance of tuning, it made a world of difference after I got the a/f right and adjusted my timing.

Pretty much went from barely scratching the tires in first to absolutely no traction in first or second (easing in the throttle, not trying to spin) I wish mine was awd:sosad:
 
im pretty sure ecmlink reads bhp, not whp, because it doesnt know drivetrain loss, awd,fwd, etc.
 
Link shows you the estimated hp based on a few factors. Alot of people dont realize that you can customize different things, like tire size, drivetrain loss, and a few others that I can't remember (I'm in Iraq, sue me). If you chose not to cheap out and buy v3, you will have a much easier time tuning than v2. I drove around a few times, staying in closed loop for a good 45 min, cruising, city driving, and highway. I then went to the capture and ran the auto calc to figure the global airflow... presto chango, my a/f ratio started looking great! There's of course alot more that you can do to it, should you wish to really dive into it.

I agree about the cams being a good addition in the upper RPM, I was just saying that they arent an absolute (like a proper sized turbo).
 
I was thinking the opposite, that it estimates whp based on acceleration and weight. You would need to know the drivetrain loss to calculate bhp because it would have to be added to the estimated hp that was based on acceleration. I could be wrong though.
 
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