dsmfreak95 said:

Ok I read a few threads on here but Im still confused on what's wrong. Here's the problem I have a 98 spyder gst and I was driving it today and it started sputtering really bad when giving it gas and then idles really low. I don't really think it's a boost leak but I'm goin to check when I get a chance. But it acts like it may be getting to much fuel. I'm also goin to change the plugs but I was wondering what you guys thought it might be. The car also has dsmlink but I haven't messed with anything on that and the car ran fine before. Also this has been happening on and off some days it happens for a few minutes and I'll park it for awhile and it'll start back up and run fine.Any input on what u think it is or something I should do would be great.. Thanks

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that would be correct if you have a boost/vacuum leak since the MAF thinks your getting "x" amount of air so the ecu gives it a "y" amount of fuel but not all the air is getting there giving you a rich condition. you can't be 100% sure of it not being a boost leak until you give it the test, air can escape in places you thought were tightened up. besides all your IC pipes and intercooler your TB can leak around the shaft seals or out the 2 gaskets that go around it, even out the gasket between your IM and head. what do you have your idle set to in dsmlink? 700 to 800 rpm with NO accessories or fans on is optimal. a bad vacuum leak can cause a bad idle, your bov is recirced right?

Try replacing plug wires, had similar issue and it was my plug wires.

Good luck.

gofer said:

that would be correct if you have a boost/vacuum leak since the MAF thinks your getting "x" amount of air so the ecu gives it a "y" amount of fuel but not all the air is getting there giving you a rich condition. you can't be 100% sure of it not being a boost leak until you give it the test, air can escape in places you thought were tightened up. besides all your IC pipes and intercooler your TB can leak around the shaft seals or out the 2 gaskets that go around it, even out the gasket between your IM and head. what do you have your idle set to in dsmlink? 700 to 800 rpm with NO accessories or fans on is optimal. a bad vacuum leak can cause a bad idle, your bov is recirced right?

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No I don't have my bov recirculated but I haven't had it recirculated for awhile and I never had this problem, also I did a boost leak test and it's good, I could find anything. Even replaced o2 sensor and swapped maf out just to be sure. I don't understand why it'll run fine for about a mile then start sputtering and not stop.

dsmfreak95 said:

No I don't have my bov recirculated but I haven't had it recirculated for awhile and I never had this problem, also I did a boost leak test and it's good, I could find anything. Even replaced o2 sensor and swapped maf out just to be sure. I don't understand why it'll run fine for about a mile then start sputtering and not stop.

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found it... you answered your own question. no ifs, ands, or buts get that damn bov recirced and then if the problem continues ill help you further. if it fixes the problem me and a 100000 other dsm'rs hate to say it but... we told ya so.

gofer said:

found it... you answered your own question. no ifs, ands, or buts get that damn bov recirced and then if the problem continues ill help you further. if it fixes the problem me and a 100000 other dsm'rs hate to say it but... we told ya so.

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Yea but why would it just now decide to start doing it? And why would the car run fine with no proble for a mile or so then start doin it?? Just wondering. But I'm gonna see what I can do about getting it recirculated.

i had the same problem
i change the wires and plugs and it didnt help :/
and my problem was coil
then i change it and the cars runs great strong
try to check the coil

dawid4444 said:

i had the same problem
i change the wires and plugs and it didnt help :/
and my problem was coil
then i change it and the cars runs great strong
try to check the coil

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Well I have the dynatek coil on plug setup. How do I go about doin that?

Check and replace all the tiny things first, could be something simple, do a boost leak test to.

dsmfreak95 said:

Yea but why would it just now decide to start doing it? And why would the car run fine with no proble for a mile or so then start doin it?? Just wondering. But I'm gonna see what I can do about getting it recirculated.

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Alright I recirculated the bov and it seem to run a little better and it ran longer but still after about 5 miles it started sputtering again and wouldnt go away but it did last a little long with it recirculated. Anybody have any input on this???

Spoolin18 said:

Check and replace all the tiny things first, could be something simple, do a boost leak test to.

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I did a boost leak test and it check out fine, also replaced o2 sensor, maf, and new alternator.

Your fuel trims are probably all out of whack. Disconnect the battery for a minute to reset the ECU (if you don't want to do it with DSMLink), and then give it some drive time and see if things improve.

calan said:

Your fuel trims are probably all out of whack. Disconnect the battery for a minute to reset the ECU (if you don't want to do it with DSMLink), and then give it some drive time and see if things improve.

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That's what I was kind of thinking but I'm new to dsmlink and don't really know to much about it. I've only had the car a few weeks and I haven't got a cord to plug in to my laptop yet to tune it. So what happens if I unhook the battery and let link reset itself? It's V.2 by the way

Link doesn't have anything to do with it..(well not really). The ECU will reset itself when power is disconnected and will gradually "relearn" the long-term fuel trims (LTFT) based on your current airflow and fuel.

If you had the BOV vented and then recirculated it or did other similar things (like fixing boost leaks, etc.), you have changed the airflow/fuel balance of the engine...but the ECU is still using the old numbers since it takes a while to update. Depending on which direction the fuel trims are off after the changes, the car may run better or it may run worse until the trims come back in line.

Resetting them just zeroes everything out and lets the ECU start adjusting from the factory settings.

If you have DSMLink but haven't done anything with it, I suggest you get familiar with it and check to see if it is set up properly for your car (global fuel based on injector size, deadtime settings, airflow compensation, etc). If it is a legally transferred copy of DSMLink, you should have the cable from the previous owner, or be able to contact the guys at ECMLink to register the transfer and request a new cable.

Ok I'll I'll reset my ecu this afternoon and see what happens. The reason I don't have the cable is because the guy just forgot to give it to me when I bough the car and he lives out of state, so he has to mail it to me. Now if I reset the ecu won't it go back to the setting they programmed it to when it was sent off to get socketed and everything?? Because when it was sent off the guy gave them a list of the mods done any they set the ecu accordingly.. Right??

calan said:

Your fuel trims are probably all out of whack. Disconnect the battery for a minute to reset the ECU (if you don't want to do it with DSMLink), and then give it some drive time and see if things improve.

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...

if reseting the ECU after recircing the bov doesn't fix it id go over your COP setups wiring and also check for vacuum/boost leaks again...

OP, do you happen to have a 6 bolt swap by chance or are using a 1g CAS?

SBR Joe said:

OP, do you happen to have a 6 bolt swap by chance or are using a 1g CAS?

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Well I know it doesn't have a 1g head or anything put it is a ported 2g head. And I'm not sure about the casthought, I know it's a 95 or 96 head bc the cas is behind the cam

One of my friends had problems with her cop setup. One of the coils turned out bad. Check your spark plugs and see if one of them looks blacker than the others.

And is it sputtering driving normal or under wot?

turbomatic said:

One of my friends had problems with her cop setup. One of the coils turned out bad. Check your spark plugs and see if one of them looks blacker than the others.

And is it sputtering driving normal or under wot?

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Yea man the 3rd one is black and the other ones look fine.and yea it'll drive fine for about a mile then start sputtering all the time under any amount of throttle

dsmfreak95 said:

Yea man the 3rd one is black and the other ones look fine.and yea it'll drive fine for about a mile then start sputtering all the time under any amount of throttle

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well atleast you got your bov recirced, a black/burnt #3 spark plug doesn't raise an eyebrow?

Try switching back the stock coil setup and see if it clears up.

turbomatic said:

Try switching back the stock coil setup and see if it clears up.

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i dont have all the stuff anymore,so your thinking i need a new coil there?

dsmfreak95 said:

i dont have all the stuff anymore,so your thinking i need a new coil there?

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...i think you need a new coil on there if you want your car to run right.

You probably have a bad wire or perhaps plug. If you got a volt meter you could test the wire against another known good wire.

gofer said:

...i think you need a new coil on there if you want your car to run right.

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+1
If it were me Id go back to the stock coil. Im fairly certain thats your problem. If you want to test the coil, just swap it with another and see if that spark plug is black as well.

Ive never been a fan of the cop setup, it does look cool though.