I have a 98 gsx a few years ago i went 12.0 with a similar setup. I had 18's exhaust bolts ons ect...
When i went 12.0 i had a 57 trim, and 272 cams. The cams really helped my car. Im not saying its going to get you into 12.5, but adding the cams to the mix deff will not hurt!

I went 12.60 at 25psi on a 16g 2 stepping w/antilag at 5250 with a 1.76 60 foot.. Driver mod will help and you must fix that boost leak!!!.. I also noticed no drivetrain mods.... The stcok clutch wont handle the torque of the 2 step..

Some 272's will help quite a bit. I would check out either COMP, or go with Delta regrinds as they are under $100 each if you send in cores.

You should also do a little practicing on launching; at least a 10th could be taken off your time. You might want to try it without a 2-step as well; I've never been able to take of decent with a 2-step. I always either slip the clutch too much or bog it, even at a higher RPM than I normally launch at (I launch at 4 grand, yet even with a 4500 2-step I can't take off nearly as fast).

I don't understand what you mean by "bent pipe boost leak restricted to 20psi for the moment". But since you have a MBC and it's set at 22psi it doesn't know there is a boost leak and should continue to keep the boost up at 22 unless the leak is so severe that it will only hold 20psi. In that case, that will affect your ET substantially. So, I know you don't want to hear it, but fix the damn boost leak before you ask for suggestions on how to go faster.

I don't see in your profile having a WBO2 or what AFR your car was "tuned" to at 22psi. But, with a boost leak that AFR will be richer no matter what your circumstances, that will make you less power.

Once you fix the boost leak start with your launch. A 1.9 isn't too bad, but I'd look to get a 1.7-1.6 60' time. The general consensus is that if you shave .10 off your 60' that could possibly translate to a .5 sec or so quicker ET. The reason your boost leak is so important to the 1/4 time your running is you could be coming out of the hole hard and then the power you're making is not enough to keep you on pace to run the ET that your 60' suggests you could.

I don't think launching any higher than 5k will net you any better results. You didn't tell us if you're already spinning the tires, but if you are, raising the stutterbox will only make that problem worse most likely slowing you down out of the hole.

Getting a good time all boils down to getting a great launch and then having the power to carry you through the rest of the way. And of course quick shifting to a certain extent.

viperlp01 said:

I went 12.60 at 25psi on a 16g 2 stepping w/antilag at 5250 with a 1.76 60 foot.. Driver mod will help and you must fix that boost leak!!!.. I also noticed no drivetrain mods.... The stcok clutch wont handle the torque of the 2 step..

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I see a CFDF in his list.

Cams will help alot..

But fixing the boost leak and proper tuning will help even more ...

ive heard many good things about the kelford 272's there are a few thread out there that dyno prove the kelfords as getting some of the best gains!

I think getting the kelford cams will help shave some time off you run!!

Wouldn't hurt to lose some weight either. I didn't really notice a power increase after weight reduction, but I did notice a handling difference and the car was funner to drive.

Post a log of the run. If you don't have one then post a log of a 3rd gear pull.

Why don't you turn up the boost to get your time? Surely that 50 trim can still be efficient at higher boost.

I don't know the exact limitations of a stock 7 bolt head bolts, but Ryan at Import Evolution told me that he was running 25-28 psi on his 50 trim with his stock head.

I still think there is more to be had in your tune, which is why I am curious to see a log.

was your runs with a full loaded car? Ever bit of weight counts, I think one of your best mods that you could do to your setup would be getting some nice 16" rota's that weigh 13lbs per wheel. Your 18's are most likely close to 35lbs a piece. That would save 22 lbs at EACH wheel. Netting 88 pounds total.

Thank you for all the quick replies. I was tired and did not put enough information in my original post, so I will try and clear some things up.

my98gsx said:

I have a 98 gsx a few years ago i went 12.0 with a similar setup. I had 18's exhaust bolts ons ect...
When i went 12.0 i had a 57 trim, and 272 cams. The cams really helped my car. Im not saying its going to get you into 12.5, but adding the cams to the mix deff will not hurt!

Click to expand...

There is actually a member on another site with almost the same setup, but with added cams, that ran a 12.3 @ 114 with the same turbo on 23psi.

viperlp01 said:

I went 12.60 at 25psi on a 16g 2 stepping w/antilag at 5250 with a 1.76 60 foot.. Driver mod will help and you must fix that boost leak!!!.. I also noticed no drivetrain mods.... The stcok clutch wont handle the torque of the 2 step..

Click to expand...

I have a Fidanza 4.3. I hadn't updated my mods since I first got the car, so I brought them up to date today.

->PrOjEcTGS<- said:

I don't understand what you mean by "bent pipe boost leak restricted to 20psi for the moment". But since you have a MBC and it's set at 22psi it doesn't know there is a boost leak and should continue to keep the boost up at 22 unless the leak is so severe that it will only hold 20psi. In that case, that will affect your ET substantially. So, I know you don't want to hear it, but fix the damn boost leak before you ask for suggestions on how to go faster.

I don't see in your profile having a WBO2 or what AFR your car was "tuned" to at 22psi. But, with a boost leak that AFR will be richer no matter what your circumstances, that will make you less power.


I don't think launching any higher than 5k will net you any better results. You didn't tell us if you're already spinning the tires, but if you are, raising the stutterbox will only make that problem worse most likely slowing you down out of the hole.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. Lots to answer. First off, the pipe that connects from the turbo to the FMIC popped off one day on the highway. When I fixed it, i realized that somehow, that caused the pipe to bend quite severely. I brought it home and tried to bend it back to original shape, but it didn't get perfect. I need to replace the pipe to get rid of the boost leak. It holds at 20psi with the leak. Reason I ask for suggestions is because I know that even with the car not leaking, it wouldn't put me at my goal.

My tune is set for 10.9 WOT, but with the boost leak, it is running richer, pegging the gauge at 10.0.

When I ran the car, I had my 2step set at 5k, and antilag at 4750. The car was building about 12-15psi off the line, and at the track, would spin until about 6k in 1st gear. When I got back, I took antilag off, and set the 2step up to 5500, and it is now building about 5-7psi. A few friends recommended I try it this way to try and net a better 60'.

My1GLaser said:

Post a log of the run. If you don't have one then post a log of a 3rd gear pull.

Why don't you turn up the boost to get your time? Surely that 50 trim can still be efficient at higher boost.

I still think there is more to be had in your tune, which is why I am curious to see a log.

Click to expand...

I don't have a log, but as soon as I get the boost leak fixed I will post a 3rd gear pull. The car is maxed out on injector, which is why I left it at 22psi. That, and I have the AMS MBC which is supposed to be 0-20psi or so I've heard. It is almost maxed out as well on 22psi, although I might be able to push it to 25.

greenydsm said:

was your runs with a full loaded car? Ever bit of weight counts, I think one of your best mods that you could do to your setup would be getting some nice 16" rota's that weigh 13lbs per wheel. Your 18's are most likely close to 35lbs a piece. That would save 22 lbs at EACH wheel. Netting 88 pounds total.

Click to expand...

It was with a fully loaded car yes. I would rather run the car the way I drive it daily on the street, than to unload 100+lbs to net a better time.

And the rims are super heavy. I would guess very close to 40lbs each. I'm hoping to have enough to replace the rims with some 16-17" Rota's or Imagines next time I need to change tires.

if you need a new pipe for your kit pm me i have two sitting around i wouldnt mind getting rid of

Here are a few logs I took. I fixed the boost leak and it is holding 21-22psi quite steadily now. AFR's are right at 10.9 during WOT.

1st log is 3rd gear pull
2nd log is cruising around 70
3rd log is 2nd to 3rd gear pull

Looks like your o2 is dead and your fuel trims are maxed out,

One of my buddys 95 awd tsi has about the same mods as you do!!
Here's a video of one of his runs..
Mods=
stock 180xxx mile 6bolt
20g turbo
dsm link
fic 650cc
ACT 2600
comp 101200s
straight 3" exhaust
Thats about it!!!! Oh and this was on 20lbs of boost!! 12.54 107. mph
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So i say, tune your car up a little more and you should hit your goals!!

If you're not gonna turn up the boost then this is what I'd do.

Add timing to what you already have as follows.
4000 +1
4500 +3
5000 +1
7000 +1

I think you can get away with more timing from 3k to 4k to get the airflow numbers to come up quicker when the turbo is spooling. If you start to knock, or the cars runs worse then you can just leave it. I like to push my car as far as I can without knocking so I know what I can get away with.

My car likes timing. I was running 19-20* from idle to redline without knock on 9:1 CR. My sliders were really jacked up looking, but the timing in the log was rock solid. It did peak at like 22 around 2500 or so.

It appears that you need to calibrate your airflow according to this.DSMlink MAS/MAF Calibration Page

You will probably have to change your fuel sliders once you calibrate your airflow. As it sits now though, You can probably pull a couple % out from 5k to 7.5k. Instead of it going richer just level it off. Maybe you were doing that to get rid of knock or something though. Pulling a degree of timing works better than dousing it with fuel IMO.