You can get a rough estimate just by holding a metric ruler or tape measure up to the inlet.

That looks like a 56mm 6-blade HX40 to me, but I could be wrong. The 60mm HX40's seem to have a thicker "ring" cast into the housing around the compressor inlet than the 56's.

60mm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gamble97
Can you guys list it like this:

What turbo (hx only):
Miles on turbo:
Size of return:
Size of oil line:
Fed from:
Restictor and color:

Hx40
3800mi( thanx justin)
3/4 copper tubing into -10an flanges i drilled out to 5/8
-4an feed
from filter housing
.082 restrictor

The drain seems to be important, BUT i also got my oil pressure right before i installed this turbo, i blew a bullseye 57trim, and a fptd06sl2 18g both at about 1500,2000mi before i fixed my oil pressure, it was at 140psi+ at redline.

was asked to move this post to part 7

What turbo (hx only):
Miles on turbo:
Size of return:
Size of oil line:
Fed from:
Restictor and color:

HX-35
unknown
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Oil Return Line Kit (Socketless Hose Fitting) : -10AN
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Oil Feedline Kit (Oil Filter Location): Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99
oil filter housing
.078

I tried to feed it from the head with no bs. DON'T DO IT there isn't enough pressure at idle. I killed on in no time at all.

I seem to have a problem at idle. My autometer elec. oil pressure gauge reads reallly low at idle.. There is only 0-/-25-/-50-/-75-/-100 and it read below the first /... Do you think it is the electric sender just being inaccurate..

viperlp01 said:

I seem to have a problem at idle. My autometer elec. oil pressure gauge reads reallly low at idle.. There is only 0-/-25-/-50-/-75-/-100 and it read below the first /... Do you think it is the electric sender just being inaccurate..

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I had the same problem with mine then the gauge stopped working unless you played with the wiring in the back of the gauge. I ordered a new one which came with a new sender and it fixed the problem.

Dose anyone have any results, or dyno numbers, or track times for the 6 blade 56mm HX40 in a t3 .70 ar housing?

Just got my turbo back! HX35/40 with stock turbine housing and brand new 60mm 6 blade wheel and housing

ninesixtwo said:

Just got my turbo back! HX35/40 with stock turbine housing and brand new 60mm 6 blade wheel and housing

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Don't tell me you sent it out to have a wheel installed?

I had a friend take care of everything, including the rebuild, backing plate machining and balancing. Got a good deal on the parts too, 400CAD for the housing, wheel and genuine rebuild kit

ninesixtwo said:

I had a friend take care of everything, including the rebuild, backing plate machining and balancing. Got a good deal on the parts too, 400CAD for the housing, wheel and genuine rebuild kit

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Good deal. I have the exact same turbo, right down to the turbine housing. You'll be happy with it.

I hope to have my car done and back on the road by this weekend. I can't wait. I will post pics of the install and finished product as soon as it's done.

joyfil2001 said:

I hope to have my car done and back on the road by this weekend. I can't wait. I will post pics of the install and finished product as soon as it's done.

Click to expand...

Good luck with the fitment. Are you just going to rotate the comp housing to get more room?

red_devil said:

Good luck with the fitment. Are you just going to rotate the comp housing to get more room?

Click to expand...

I'm going to point it straight down. I got a VRS short route FMIC on the way.

Does anyone know what length the oil return line should be? I purchased the SS braided line from extremepsi but it is 12" long. Also, correct me if I am wrong, but to cut a steel braided line I have to tape the section and use a hacksaw right?

joyfil2001 said:

I'm going to point it straight down. I got a VRS short route FMIC on the way.

Does anyone know what length the oil return line should be? I purchased the SS braided line from extremepsi but it is 12" long. Also, correct me if I am wrong, but to cut a steel braided line I have to tape the section and use a hacksaw right?

Click to expand...

Cutting the SS will be a huge pain and getting everything to work is more figuring out what works best for you.

I used tape and a cutoff wheel on my dremel. A hacksaw will work but be sure to use a new and fine blade. I saw a tutorial elsewhere where they used a sharpened chisel and hammer to cut it, so there are many methods out there.

Hubbard 0 said:

Cutting the SS will be a huge pain and getting everything to work is more figuring out what works best for you.

I used tape and a cutoff wheel on my dremel. A hacksaw will work but be sure to use a new and fine blade. I saw a tutorial elsewhere where they used a sharpened chisel and hammer to cut it, so there are many methods out there.

Click to expand...

Well I bought a new cut off wheel for my grinder. I will either do that or use the chisel method. The things we do to look pretty.

A cut off wheel with my air grinder is what I use. Take your time. Don't just go at it. Lightly apply pressure and be consistant.

dsm-onster said:

A cut off wheel with my air grinder is what I use. Take your time. Don't just go at it. Lightly apply pressure and be consistant.

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I have an electric grinder. I bought a 7/8" (really thin) cut off wheel. But the chisel method seems much faster and cleaner.

edit: Just put my line together over the weekend. I just used the grinder and it took 2 minutes. VERY clean cut with no frays.

I installed my Holset over the weekend! All I can say is damn this thing spools fast. It spools faster than my 18g. Anyone who is worried about turbo lag for their AUTO should get this turbo. There is no lag! So far the only issue I have is a coolant leak where the water pipe meets the water pump. I guess it is from banging on the water pipe to make this damn thing fit. Anyone have any suggestions on replacing the o ring that goes there? Can I do this without removing the turbo/manifold? If I pull off the thermostat housing, can I just unbolt the pipe from the block and wiggle it out? 7-bolt motor.

You should be able to wiggle it out of there. It will be tight, but when isn't it when working in our engine bays.

Make sure to clean the pipe well before installing the new o-ring. Also try to clean and dry the water pump outlet. I personally use a light coat of dielectric grease on the o-ring. This will help lube the o-ring so it doesn't "flip" or "bind" when you push the water pipe back in place. Also, the dielectric grease won't attack the o-ring like a petroleum based grease will.

Thanks for the advise. I'm going to do this today.

joyfil2001 said:

Thanks for the advise. I'm going to do this today.

Click to expand...

How did you make out?

joyfil2001 said:

I have an electric grinder. I bought a 7/8" (really thin) cut off wheel. But the chisel method seems much faster and cleaner.

edit: Just put my line together over the weekend. I just used the grinder and it took 2 minutes. VERY clean cut with no frays.

Click to expand...

You think that a 7/8" cut off disc is thin?? The ones that I use are 1/8". I just put my ss braided hose on my work bench after I tape the cut area with electrical tape, clamp it down, and just go slow when I cut the hose. It always comes out very clean. When I put the fitting on, it also is very easy, I just make sure to use a lot of oil for lube and the pieces go right together.

I'm using an oil restrictor on my HX40 pro, but my 2.4 engine has no balance shafts and my oil pressure is 90psi at idle immediately after a cold start. I haven't been driving the car for fear of blowing something up. How high should my oil pressure be after a cold start wih this turbo and engine setup?

10psi minimum at idle. 30psi minimum on spool, 3000rpms. No more than 72 psi ever except cold start. No more than 80psi on cold start.