The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

to avoid crankwalk

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

domothegreat18

10+ Year Contributor
90
0
Aug 24, 2009
Napanoch, New_York
i was wondering if anyone knew sum ways to avoid the dreaded crankwalk cause i am about to start the rebuild of my 7 bolt and i do not want to run into that problem in the future. one of my friends told me to get rid of the oil squirters i am not to sure on the idea but if anyone has any info on what to do please let me know thanks
 
I believe the cure for crank walk is proper sentences, grammer & punctuation :ohdamn:

Since your new, you need to check out the rules & policies as the above mentioned things as well as searching are all included. If you don't want to put any effort into your thread, then most tend to not put any effort into a reply ;) .

Crankwalk isn't a new topic on these forums, I'm sure a simple search of crankwalk will bring up all kinds of good info on this topic.



Really? I know there are a tonn of people that would disagree with this, myself included. I have run over 20psi for the last 4 or so years, the last couple summers being 24-26 daily. I have run 30psi at the track without issue. I know plently of other that run high 20's daily & some even low 30's daily on their stock bottom, 7 bolts (& I'm not talking just once or twice, I'm talking years & thousands of miles). Also I'm just commenting on 7 bolts as 6 bolts can handle more.

Its more about your tune, not the, its a 7 bolt so it can only handle 20psi. If you don't know what your doing you can take out a bottom end at 15psi, while another guy who knows what he's doing (& has proper supporting mods) can run twice that boost for miles & miles.

This much is true. I was referring to a COMPLETE, top and bottom end being stock. BTW I was not yelling. :thumb: I know a few DSM'ers and also have friends that know a few more, and all of them I know have had problems when taking their boost levels too high on stock longblocks.
 
I do not mean to thread jack or take this off topic but I am contemplating the same thing. I have a 99 gsx with the original 99 block in it. I have heard the 99 block with its split thrust bearings is more resistant to crankwalk. Is this the case, or are they just as prone as any other 2g 7-bolt?
 
I agree with that it's in the tune. I was referring to people that take bone stock cars(No MAFT,SAFC, DSMLink), adding a MBC/EBC and trying to get more power/more boost, and ending up in failure.

Thank you captain obvious...

In that case if you have a "Pure bone stock car", you shouldnt be going over anything 12-14psi with a MBC

I do not mean to thread jack or take this off topic but I am contemplating the same thing. I have a 99 gsx with the original 99 block in it. I have heard the 99 block with its split thrust bearings is more resistant to crankwalk. Is this the case, or are they just as prone as any other 2g 7-bolt?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


We cant spood feed everyone all the time
 
they are better off, but theres still a chance of them walking. like mentioned before, cw is OVERRATED. my dsm has 118k hard miles on it, it has a rebuilt cyl head and a few mods, has been overboosted before to like 25-30psi on a junk boost controller (do not buy bleeder mbc's), and still hasnt walked. and it wont either, because when it was getting the cyl head rebuilt 8k miles ago, the mechanic checked the tolerance and it was within spec, on a 1995 car.
 
I have searched i can't find anything on crankwalk specifically for 99 blocks. I've been a member for years with only 50 posts trust me all i do is use the search button. I also read the rules when it says do not answer a post with a "use the search button" answer. I figured since most of the prominent wisemen usually chime in on crankwalk threads someone would have a real answer.
 
I have searched i can't find anything on crankwalk specifically for 99 blocks. I've been a member for years with only 50 posts trust me all i do is use the search button. I also read the rules when it says do not answer a post with a "use the search button" answer. I figured since most of the prominent wisemen usually chime in on crankwalk threads someone would have a real answer.

The 99 blocks have the revised thrust, so yes the 99 blocks are crankwalk-proof(some say they arent, but there is no proof that they walk, so ONLY 95-98 can walk).
 
99 blocks are good 7 bolts, 93-94 up in the air, DEF 95-96 no bueno. My 95 stock block was crankwalking so bad is was hitting and spinning the crank sensor...eeekkk. 6 bolt blocks are cheap and there are a ton of them, just pick one up and do it right just to be safe IMO. If it was a 99 block i would say go to town on it!
 
i thought 98's had the split thrust bearings like the 99's.

Yes, both 98's & 99's should have the revised split thrust bearings, as a matter of fact some very late production run 97's will have the revised bearings as well. Believe the build date switch over for the new design was in June or Jul of 97.

Here's the big thread with the CW poll:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/15307-crankwalk-poll-merged.html

As can be seen, yes a 99 can still walk (according to Marco (Magnus) if you put a heavy PP in anything you can make it walk) but the cases of walk do seem to be alot less in both 98-99's. Now you'd think they would typically have less miles vs earlier years but I think these cars have been around long enough now, that its probably not much of a factor anymore.
 
Any 2g made after June 1997 has the revised three piece thrust bearing.

My old 97 7-bolt ran out of oil and spun a rod bearing on number 4. Absolutely NO end play on the crank, and NO thrust bearing wear. It was completely ran dry of oil too. Plus it was not a revised block.

Also to everyone talking about how high of boost a 7 bolt can take: Boost does not cause crankwalk.

Has anyone ever thought, "Hey, I put the heavy clutch on one end of my crappy crank while there's a light pulley on the other end would that cause a problem?"

Truth is most crankwalkers come about when the heavy clutch is put on. At high RPMs on ANY motor that's unbalanced the crank will wobble ever so slightly. The heavier the clutch the more wobble you get. More wobble = bye bye thrust bearing. True story.

Boost wont make your car crankwalk.

To the OP: You have a 1g 7 bolt. The 1g oil squirters have very few problems and RARELY fall out or get plugged open compared to a 2g.

There's quite a few differences between 1g and 2g 7 bolts. :thumb:
 
Any 2g made after June 1997 has the revised three piece thrust bearing.

My old 97 7-bolt ran out of oil and spun a rod bearing on number 4. Absolutely NO end play on the crank, and NO thrust bearing wear. It was completely ran dry of oil too. Plus it was not a revised block.

Also to everyone talking about how high of boost a 7 bolt can take: Boost does not cause crankwalk.

Has anyone ever thought, "Hey, I put the heavy clutch on one end of my crappy crank while there's a light pulley on the other end would that cause a problem?"

Truth is most crankwalkers come about when the heavy clutch is put on. At high RPMs on ANY motor that's unbalanced the crank will wobble ever so slightly. The heavier the clutch the more wobble you get. More wobble = bye bye thrust bearing. True story.

Boost wont make your car crankwalk.

To the OP: You have a 1g 7 bolt. The 1g oil squirter's have very few problems and RARELY fall out or get plugged open compared to a 2g.

There's quite a few differences between 1g and 2g 7 bolts. :thumb:

Nobody said that boost causes crankwalk. What was said is that on STOCK internals, don't go hog wild on boost or other problems will occur. :thumb:
 
I used to believe crankwalk was overrated, well its not. Its truly killing 7bolt motors. There have been so many walkers that we have not heard of. The worst year was '96. Yeah theres people out there who kill a motor revving the shit out of it or running low on oil spin a bearing, then say its a walker.

There have been a handful of the revised 7 bolts walking, 99 being the fewest cases. But like i said we don't know how many cases there exactly is.

I can't seem to buy a 2g that doesn't have crankwalk.
 
I have 132K on my 95 and I don't have a single issue with it...I am actually planning on tearing her down and doing evo internals on her. But I dunno when.

As I am sitting here eating my apple cinnamon oatmeal, I just realized that there are more DSM'ers around me than I thought!
 
I heard if your DSM was made before June of 1995 that you would be least of crank walk, any month after that your screwed. Belive it or not, I belive it. Cars running 208k miles on it and not a problem of crankwalk. :D
 
Scary thread! There's many bull or truth out there. My two cents from what I read on the net bout crankwalk. crankwalk occurs around 87k and 100k. If your motor is over 130k miles your okay. See, all Internet gossips.
One will never know which is true.
 
I believe the cure for crank walk is proper sentences, grammer & punctuation :ohdamn:

Since your new, you need to check out the rules & policies as the above mentioned things as well as searching are all included. If you don't want to put any effort into your thread, then most tend to not put any effort into a reply ;) .

Crankwalk isn't a new topic on these forums, I'm sure a simple search of crankwalk will bring up all kinds of good info on this topic.



Really? I know there are a tonn of people that would disagree with this, myself included. I have run over 20psi for the last 4 or so years, the last couple summers being 24-26 daily. I have run 30psi at the track without issue. I know plently of other that run high 20's daily & some even low 30's daily on their stock bottom, 7 bolts (& I'm not talking just once or twice, I'm talking years & thousands of miles). Also I'm just commenting on 7 bolts as 6 bolts can handle more.

Its more about your tune, not the, its a 7 bolt so it can only handle 20psi. If you don't know what your doing you can take out a bottom end at 15psi, while another guy who knows what he's doing (& has proper supporting mods) can run twice that boost for miles & miles.


LOl.. in that case it's "you're" not "your"..:tease:
 
I used to believe crankwalk was overrated, well its not. Its truly killing 7bolt motors. There have been so many walkers that we have not heard of. The worst year was '96. Yeah theres people out there who kill a motor revving the shit out of it or running low on oil spin a bearing, then say its a walker.

There have been a handful of the revised 7 bolts walking, 99 being the fewest cases. But like i said we don't know how many cases there exactly is.

I can't seem to buy a 2g that doesn't have crankwalk.

this fking made me laugh out loud. whatr we talking about? engines or zombies dude?? nice one to pull from the graveyard. good read.
im personally wiring the clutch switch on mine(whenever the machinist gets done with it......) so i can start it with no lateral load. this is the best defense i believe. if there were oil pressure on a cold engine it wouldnt matter nearly as much but thats obviously not the case. pushing sideways on a crank with dry bearings couldnt be good. tho my 420a out in the garage has 204k on it and always started with clutch depressed like normal. dif engines tho
 
Everyone will tell you a different story. However, do not worry about crank walk, as it rarely happens (not saying it does not, nor will not happen, it does), just not as often as everyone claims. And people will tell you differently on the 6 bolt vs 7 bolts. Just do your research and build accordingly. I however am building a 7 bolt, not because of one is better than the other, but I am biased against newer technology, and everyone and their mothers run 6 bolts.

Any who, just do some research, and base your opinion on that.
 
I've owned 4 180k+ 7 Bolt cars, always, I mean always, my end play was in spec. It's more of a care issue plus other small things that attribute to thrust washer failure.

In the end though, I will tell you this, you can pick up a stock six bolt block from DSMGraveyard for what you are about to put into rebuilding that seven bolt properly. All you'd have to do is machine the 7bolt head too fit the studs for the six bolt and you should be golden.


I'd go that route if I was going to rebuilt a 4G.

I've seen 6 bolts sit in field for years and still manage too start and run (although they normally had boost leaks and compressor failure issues).
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top