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OEM Timing Belt or aftermarket? [Merged 7-8] belts

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moidsm1

20+ Year Contributor
47
0
Jul 14, 2002
Tucson_AZ
does anyone know if the Contitech timing belt is any good or is it crap?
 
Ive been using the Gates belt that Partsdinosaur.com offers on my last 2 DSMs and they truely are legit without the big pricetag just because it's a ''namebrand''
 
I just changed the whole timing system (timing belt, balance shaft timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, and the all pulleys) and the water pump. All are OEM from JNZTuning at $385 including shipping to canada. The service is first class and I would higly recommend them for any OEM parts.
 
If i had money i would have shelled out the extra for oem but screw it, it's already on.
Looks strong, let's see how it does.
 
Ive been using the Gates belt that Partsdinosaur.com offers on my last 2 DSMs and they truely are legit without the big pricetag just because it's a ''namebrand''

How many have you used? Could you privide a link to the specific one you are talking about? I seen they had two different ones. Thanks
 
If i had money i would have shelled out the extra for oem but screw it, it's already on.
Looks strong, let's see how it does.

If you have a Contitech then you have an OEM belt. They make the belts for Mitsu. It just doesn't have the pretty :dsm: logo on it. If you really want to throw away the extra money feel free paypal it to me. :sneaky:
 
Stop obsessing. Any new belt will be fine. "Stretching" is not an issue, and failure of new belts -as opposed to being installed out-of-time- is unheard of. There are no "cheap" belts being made. It's too complex an operation to bother trying to make clones of.
 
I thought all timing belts were Kevlar. Hrm.

How long do they warrant these for, do you know?

no, the kevlar belts are for people running larger cams and tougher springs.
the kevlar belts are designed to take a bit more of a beating from the added force of larger cams and higher revving, but i would STILL change one every 60k if not before then
 
hate to be a ball breaker fellas but gates makes greddy belts .power enterprise is the original designer of the kevlar belt used by a huge majority of race teams in japan. oh yeah they have 4g63t's over there right? i have worked for gates in salem nh making these belts and they are nylon and fiberglass reinforced belts. the cords are passed thru a glue bath,baked at 450 and combed into an extruder and profile mold (where it gets the tooth)and those profile tolerances are tight. they are an excellent product . oem is great aswell for slightly tweaked cars . hks makes a great belt but too pricey. power enterprise is only 10 bucks more than the gates belt , greddy? 30 bucks more for a rebadged gates . check out the gates website and check out power enterprises site . but i can tell you, i will run power enterprise . why you ask ? just preference.
 
Am I the only one in this post who knows about kevlar timing belts?

Super Strong Timing Belt

Lasts up to 4 times longer than stock-like timing belts, much stronger, less expansion/stretch.

But the thing about Kevlar timing belts is that they say if you get any oil on them you should replace it asap ..... So if your dipstick just happens to pop out spraying oil everywhere boom there just went your $250+ t belt
 
But the thing about Kevlar timing belts is that they say if you get any oil on them you should replace it asap ..... So if your dipstick just happens to pop out spraying oil everywhere boom there just went your $250+ t belt

That's true of any timing belt. The only difference is cost.
 
I've ran four different manufactures timing belts - two of which preformed as expected, a third was replaced early after a blown head gasket,
and the other broke catastrophically causing serious cylinder head damage.

Belt #1 OEM
- This belt was on the vehicle when purchased, it may have been on the car for the entire 150,000 mile life, but I'd bet it was on there for about 80K. The belt look good when removed considering a full service life.

Belt #2 Napa Belt (I believe it was about $55)
- This belt was run for roughly 15,000 miles and was replaced due to a blown head gasket and minor damage caused from an improperly installed oil pan.

Belt #3 Discount T-Belt (purchased from PartsDinosaur.com)

- This purchase was a major brain-fart on my part; I believe the result of financial constraints and an early belt replacement explained above; for some reason I decided it was acceptable to run a $75 Timing Belt Kit -- including a timing belt, pulleys and BS belt.

** This was a horribly BAD IDEA, and this belt broke after 3000 mile. I also believe one of the pulleys from the kit has begun to make noise (20K miles old).


NOTE: I don't necessarily blame the PartsDinosaur for the belt failure as I neglected to replace the auto-tensioner and was foolish enough to trust my engine to a $30 T-Belt. PartsDino has since added other T-belt options and better descriptions as well.

*** However, I had hoped the Parts Dino would have been willing to offer a helping hand and given some amount of discount on the damaged parts I was now in need of -- unfortunately, this was not the case. I would now, once again, consider purchasing parts from the PartsDino, unfortunately, it took almost 2 years for me to forgive and forget the belt failure.

Belt #4 Power Enterprises, Super Strong Timing Belt & Auto-Tensioner (about $225 total)
- This belt is currently on the vehicle and daily driven. The T-Belt has roughly 17,000 miles on it and seems to be holding up well. Nothing amazing, however, and I will likely switch back to an OEM T-Belt in 30,000 miles or so.

IMO, you should always run an OEM or better belt, and only run it for 45K to 60K miles depending on modifications and driving style. Again, IMO, a better belt is a Power Enterprises, HKS or similar Kevlar racing belt.
 
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When I first did my T-belt I made the mistake of buying a belt at Checker. 4k miles later the belt slipped and bent vavles on me. Initialy I thought that I screwed up the tension but later I found out that the belt itself stretched! After only 4 thousand miles! But I didnt learn. I went to NAPA and bought an entire T-belt kit for my car. After 2k miles the tensioner pulley locked up and bent valves again!

Since then I will never buy anything but OEM parts. That was enough proof for me.

I couldent agree more with what you said, i own two cars both turbos an hyundai accent n my new 4G63t 90eclipse GSX. On my accent the torque it had when the turbo charges 23 psi it used to rip appart the alternator pulley most of the time so i bought a supposely carbon fiber made belt for the alternator, so far its still on my car and that was almost 2 years now. As far as t-belts, i only buy OEM. I think buyers needs to check what its made of if its kevlar somebody said around here, or if its carbon fiber or nylon wrapped belts. If it where possible id wouldnt mind getting a chain t- belt.
 
Gates timing belt 'race series'. proven on a 1000 whp 4g46/4g63 engine at my local shop (MAperformance) and on my car. I have heard OEM belts will take 600whp and 8000 rpm without an issue from my engine builder who is a very reputable guy. OEM till 550whp, gates past that is what I would recommend. Just keep your belt clean! any oil can kill it. Has worked well for me!
 
Not sure if they still make them, and they are high. But Ive had awesome service out og my Greddy timing belt.
 
I install the mainly the Evo IX timing belt, it is oe, and Kevlar backed like the "Blue" timing belts.

MD326059
 
Well I always get gates belt from the parts store, never had any problems, but ill tell you what don't cheap out and buy a super cheap this is what happend to one of my buddies, it had like 40 miles on it
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