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Project 9's No compromise !!!

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Yea im all about running some of the best products...

But an $850 boost controller is just silly... and i know silly (just ask how much i spent to chrome my alternator ROFL)

Especially since your goal is 9's, which has been done with hallman/buschur MBC..
 
Yeah but this thing can do more than just slow down the boost response you can limit how much boost is run in each gear which is what I plan on doing. Like I can limit it to like 20psi in first, 30 in second and let her rip for 3rd and 4th. This is extra useful for when I drive the car on the street. At this point in my build it is not that much money considering how much I have invested in the car and this is one of those cases where the best part for MY BUILD is the most expensive. Reliability and track proven results back this up.

Are you going FWD or something LOL. Your car is awd, if your on the the right tire there will be no need to limit boost. You gotta think of load also. My car only hits maybe 20psi in first gear, and feels like a dud, I hit 2nd it goes to 26psi and feels like I hit it with a 200 shot. There isnt enough load on first gear to really get more unless you got some spray to spool it up alittle more. Im running a single tial 38mm on my divided setup, and I can turn the boost down to 16psi with a 14psi spring inside. I doubt you will have any trouble with 2 gates

Again you dont want to slow down boost response anymore then its already going to be, that would only be good if you were fwd. Spending 850 on a boost controller, when your getting aem and when you can run there controller in the aem program, or anything else is a waste of money, but yes its your money. Like I said most high dollar racing teams with dsms dont run nothing more then a hallman or the aem boost control. 850 could be stage 5 rear axles, or the 300m big output shaft transfer case to go along with that nice driveshaft you got, which you will benefit more from.
 
Are you going FWD or something LOL. Your car is awd, if your on the the right tire there will be no need to limit boost. You gotta think of load also. My car only hits maybe 20psi in first gear, and feels like a dud, I hit 2nd it goes to 26psi and feels like I hit it with a 200 shot. There isnt enough load on first gear to really get more unless you got some spray to spool it up alittle more. Im running a single tial 38mm on my divided setup, and I can turn the boost down to 16psi with a 14psi spring inside. I doubt you will have any trouble with 2 gates

Again you dont want to slow down boost response anymore then its already going to be, that would only be good if you were fwd. Spending 850 on a boost controller, when your getting aem and when you can run there controller in the aem program, or anything else is a waste of money, but yes its your money. Like I said most high dollar racing teams with dsms dont run nothing more then a hallman or the aem boost control. 850 could be stage 5 rear axles, or the 300m big output shaft transfer case to go along with that nice driveshaft you got, which you will benefit more from.

Actually most of the fast dsm guys that I ran into were messing with this unit. Shawn from boost boys said he took .2 off his 1/4 mile time and Brent Bennyhoff runs one in his mid 9 sec 1g as well. Boost response is increased and yet still kept in check better with this unit as well. I am not in any rush to finish this build. My goal is to have it up and running right by next years showdown/shootout. If it's done before that cool but that is the goal. Trust me steve those other things are on the list too :thumb:
 
Nvm just got off the phone with Brent he uses a Hallman and Sean is fwd now so it looks like this whole electric boos contoller while popular seems a bit overkill for awd. If it it was making awd guys go faster I would spend the money but if it's ONLY fwd and RWD benefiting then I'll just get a halman.
 
Shawn from Boost Boyz is FWD...

Good luck with it. I think it's going to be a headache trying to control the ebay gates with that controller. I would have run tial gates with a hallman instead.I run a hallman and a single tial on my twin scroll and she has no problem running 33psi. My car is knocking on nines and it should have been but the top end of the track my car wasn't feeling it.

I'm more worried about one of the gate NOT opening which has been an issue with ebay wastegates.

The simpler setups work best. Less of a headache, easier to work with. Then when there is a problem and there will be problems, there is less stuff to digg thru and figure out what the hell is causing the issue your having.

EDIT: I see your going to make the right choice and get a hallman. Good man!!!
 
Shawn from Boost Boyz is FWD...

Good luck with it. I think it's going to be a headache trying to control the ebay gates with that controller. I would have run tial gates with a hallman instead.I run a hallman and a single tial on my twin scroll and she has no problem running 33psi. My car is knocking on nines and it should have been but the top end of the track my car wasn't feeling it.

I'm more worried about one of the gate NOT opening which has been an issue with ebay wastegates.

The simpler setups work best. Less of a headache, easier to work with. Then when there is a problem and there will be problems, there is less stuff to digg thru and figure out what the hell is causing the issue your having.

EDIT: I see your going to make the right choice and get a hallman. Good man!!!

Amen to that.


Keep it simple electronically. Get the car running right, get the drivetrain/motor ready for war, turn the boost up and get ready to learn how to drive a manual car again. Its a whole different animal, because when you are making that kind of power, and dont wanna completly break the car is a constant battle of finding the medium.

Worrying about .2 of a second off your time is something 7 second guys worry about. You can turn it up a pound of boost and gain that.

AWD's battle is holding the car together, and getting it down the track. All that other crap it for the birds.

Dont turn this into "project 9's more complicated"
 
Amen to that.


Keep it simple electronically. Get the car running right, get the drivetrain/motor ready for war, turn the boost up and get ready to learn how to drive a manual car again. Its a whole different animal, because when you are making that kind of power, and dont wanna completly break the car is a constant battle of finding the medium.

Worrying about .2 of a second off your time is something 7 second guys worry about. You can turn it up a pound of boost and gain that.

AWD's battle is holding the car together, and getting it down the track. All that other crap it for the birds.

Dont turn this into "project 9's more complicated"

QUality LOL ROFL

Ok you talked me out of it halman it is. You guys suck with this peer pressure. I'm not budging on the wategates though :nono: LOL
 
This is a true divided setup so neither gate will see a true 50psi. I really only think it will take 45psi but for argument sake just use 50psi. Each wastegate is only regulating half the exhaust flow so 25psi max each. I think that a ebay wastegate, which by the way cost less than 100 :), can handle that much boost.

Uh...Are you serious? It doesn't matter whether you have 1 wastegate or 5, you're going to have the same pressure on all of them. They'll each see the same intake pressure on the nipple, and they'll have the same exhaust pressure on them as well.

I'm with Nikkeebabee as well. I hate to see someone dump so much money into a build and then cheap out on other stuff. There is no way an electronic boost controller is worth $850. Even $85 is too much for a piece of metal, a spring, and a ball. The best part is, your car comes with a boost controller already! It is sitting in the driver's side footwell, right next to the brake pedal.

It's your money, do what you want with it...but I hope you spend it wisely on the parts that count, or better yet, save it for the parts that you WILL break, and all the nagging problems that you'll have to deal with before you get a fast car. People don't get fast overnight. Remember, KISS.
 
You should look into both turbosmart WGs and the turbosmart e-boost2. Thats what we have on our car and its a dream of a boost controller. I think its around 600 for the 60psi model. But in my opinion its probably the best boost controller on the market right now. A friend of mine runs the NLR system in his civic and he SWEARS by it. He wont use anything else. I think since uv got this much $ in the build already dont go and get a manual BC. Get somethin like the e-boost or the NLR system. Somethin that u know wont mess up. And with a manual bc u cant hardly do anything but turn the boost up and down. With what ## doing u need a good electronic so u can regulate it through the gears. And anybody that believes that shep is just runnin a hallman manual boost controller really just needs to sit back and think about that for a second.
 
Call Shep and ask him what he runs it's a hallman.

Better yet it says right on his website a hallman set to 55 psi...

::Shepracing.com - Race Car::

So as I sit back and think about it Hallman is the way to go.

EDIT: if you look right below the IC pipe you notice a little red hallman pro sitting on the frame rail.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
ok then how come on the couple of forums it states that he used the boost by gear to get in the 7s. If u can explain to me how u do boost by gear with a MBC then please tell me ### u know somethin i dont.
 
You guys are over analyzing this really. If a wastegate brakes, which I have never seen just them leak, all that will happen is I will lose boost because they will be stuck open. This is not a connection rod or a piston or a clutch, it's not a moving part that needs to be balanced or super strong. This debate has been going on for a while and it won't be solved any time soon so lets just leave it at these are the hates that will be on my MY setup. If you don't like them or agree I understand but trust me they will not stop me from reaching my goals. There are a lot of factors that could but they are not one.

With that said boost control can wait anyway I need to finish the engine and make boost before I start worrying about how to control it LOL.


Edit: By the way I don't know if you guys saw but fitment is also a issue with 38mm JHRacing manifolds. My manifold was setup for 44mm's but after talking with some guys that was actually going to hurt top end by diverting so much flow away from the turbo. The tials may not even clear without facing them totally toward the radiator which I don't want.
 
Shep may have messed around with Boost by gear but isnt using it. That pic is a pic of the 7.7 setup along with his mod list. He uses a Hallman. END OF STORY.

As far as the ebay gates. I'll say it again. When they stick they stick CLOSED!!! That will put shaft speeds on the turbo thru the roof and boost way higher then you want. If the manifold is setup up wrong then it's time to sell it for something else.

All the bigger wasteggates are going to do is allow you to run a much lower boost if you want. The larger surface area will give you steadier boost control.

This is not a step I would be ignoring as this will break that pretty motor.
 
Shep may have messed around with Boost by gear but isnt using it. That pic is a pic of the 7.7 setup along with his mod list. He uses a Hallman. END OF STORY.

As far as the ebay gates. I'll say it again. When they stick they stick CLOSED!!! That will put shaft speeds on the turbo thru the roof and boost way higher then you want. If the manifold is setup up wrong then it's time to sell it for something else.

All the bigger wasteggates are going to do is allow you to run a much lower boost if you want. The larger surface area will give you steadier boost control.

This is not a step I would be ignoring as this will break that pretty motor.

Who cares what Shep runs to be honest I'm not trying to run 7's and I don't build my cars around what everyone else thinks is best. I am always open to other people's opinion and experience because you would have to be foolish not to be, but at the end of the day it's my call though and I HAVE used ebay externals before and they all worked fine so I went with them again. I'm not getting rid of my manifold and I'm not getting rid of the wastegates thanks for your input though man.
 
And IF the wastegates fail, what are the chances that they will both fail at the same time? DSM-onster loves these things, lots of people have had good success with them, I've actually never heard of anyone having problems with them. Now it's time to let them get pushed further than ever on Slippi's car and see if they still hold up. :thumb:
 
And IF the wastegates fail, what are the chances that they will both fail at the same time? DSM-onster loves these things, lots of people have had good success with them, I've actually never heard of anyone having problems with them. Now it's time to let them get pushed further than ever on Slippi's car and see if they still hold up. :thumb:

Yeah he's on of the guys that I was referring to using them and not having any problems. People told me the same thing when I bought my XTD stage 3 and 4 clutch when everyone said act2600 was the only clutch to buy now people love the XTD clutches. I wonder how many people will change their tune if these gates don't leak and regulate boost just fine.

By the way the comment about the 44mms hurting top end came directly from the mouth of the AMS driver and the owner as I stood next to them looking at their engine bay at the showdown.
 
I don't think 1600cc injectors will support 40+psi on e85?
 
Glad you got that 850 dollar boost controller out of your head, when you can by the aem boost soilnoid and have complete control if you want electronic.

If I ever saw a street car or a 9 second dsm with that controller Ill pee on the car. Guys that run that have traction issues, or dont wanna die because there breaking records on small size slicks/drag radials.

I would make sure the injectors will be enough, you might need to run 2 sets of injectors, and 3 pumps. I know big ted was at that point. He was running 8 1600cc injectors, and 3 pumps because he was running out of fuel.
 
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