Is there something in DSMLink that translates 1g CAS to 2g ECU?

BTW, with a setup like you've got, how do you know the head is getting enough oil? If you are only measuring oil pressure down on the filter housing, you really have no idea what the oil pressure is in the head do you?

invertCAS will fix any 1Gcaseina2g issue.

We're on Boost said:

BTW, with a setup like you've got, how do you know the head is getting enough oil? If you are only measuring oil pressure down on the filter housing, you really have no idea what the oil pressure is in the head do you?

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You're right. I need to check it at the head. Maybe I'll put the sensor at the head just to get a pressure reading.

Also, I'm not quite sure how I can set base timing. When the RPMs drop to around 800RPM or so the car starts to stall and eventually dies. How can I set timing like that?

Ground timing using DSMlink and see how the car reacts once warmed up. Maybe bump up the idle a bit to help stabilize it, if it doesn't start surging.

Can you grab a log or two of the car just at idle?

snowborder714 said:

Ground timing using DSMlink and see how the car reacts once warmed up. Maybe bump up the idle a bit to help stabilize it, if it doesn't start surging.

Can you grab a log or two of the car just at idle?

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I'll log some data tonight and post it up. I'll also try grounding timing in link. I set the idle at 1100RPM in link and still couldn't get a steady idle!

Have you verified your ISC is in good condition? Checked your BISS screw? Checked for boost leaks?

snowborder714 said:

Have you verified your ISC is in good condition? Checked your BISS screw? Checked for boost leaks?

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I have not checked the ISC. I played with the BISS screw and it had no affect on the idle. I also haven't done a boost leak test but if a boost leak is affecting idle like this it would be a HUGE boost leak and very noticeable.

TuRBoTaLooN said:

I played with the BISS screw and it had no affect on the idle.

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That's weird. How could the BISS have no effect? If it has no effect maybe you have a vacuum leak that is bigger than the BISS, the BISS is puny by comparison! That's what it sounds like to me anyway, a big vacuum leak. You would be getting intake air that is not seen by the MAF.
In DSMLink can you set a floor (lower limit) on the MAF hz that is seen by the ecu at idle? If so you could set that to 40 hz or whatever and it would prevent a lean condition at idle.

A vacuum leak was my original thought since vacuum went down to around -11 when RPMs were in the 800-900 range. I have all the emissions stuff removed so the plugs on the TB are blocked off. That doesn't leave many vac lines. I checked them all and they seem pretty tight and I even replaced some. I feel like if there was a BIG leak I would be able to notice by sight. But its still a possibility.

I think I'll log a bunch of data in DSMLink to get a better idea of whats happening.

I won't have time to set the timing today, but I did manage to accomplish two things:

1) Confirmed the cylinder head is getting oil
2) Logged some data in DSMLink when "idling"

I have confirmed the TPS is working fine as it was 0 with foot off and 100 when I push the pedal to the floor.

AirFlowPerRev was approximately correct going between 0.29 to 0.48 or so.

Idle Switch was always 1. Should it have been 0??

ISCPosition went anywhere from 60-85

TPSVolts was a steady 0.65

Front 02 seemed to cycle fine.

A/F Ratio (from wideband) was a little lean between 14 and 16.

Timing went anywhere from 4 to 21!

LearnedIdleAdj was at a steady 144.

Attached is a log. Any advice?? I'll try to set base timing next chance I get.

Well in the log, whenever your timing is low your rpm is high. Then all of a sudden your timing kicks up to 20 something, as soon as that happens your rpm starts to drop off. It just keeps going back and forth like that. Something seems inverted about that, and way too jumpy. My car (1g) has low timing with low idle rpm and high timing with high idle rpm and it doesn't oscillate.
The fuel looks ok to me, not what I expected, I thought it would be dying from going too lean but apparently not.
Don't know if the idle switch should be 0 or 1. Does it switch to 0 when you step on the gas?

We're on Boost said:

Don't know if the idle switch should be 0 or 1. Does it switch to 0 when you step on the gas?

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That's what I was trying to figure out. Unfortunately I didn't press the gas to see.

IdleSW will be 1 (on) anytime you're not on the gas pedal. Once you touch it, it'll change to 0.

Nothing really sticks out in the log to me either. Have you checked spark plug gap, wire order, and all electrical connections?


Oh, and check your thread on the link forums. Dave has replied.

Thanks man, I checked the DSMLink post. At least I know the IdleSW is correct. Looks like I'll need to set base timing first and go from there. I'm just hoping I'm not leaking air from the IM gasket...

Then do a boost leak test to be sure you aren't.

I concur. It's time to do a boost leak test. Your probably have vac leaks in places you've never thought about.

I definitely will do a boost leak test, but I visually inspected all vac lines and ic piping. It would be a MAJOR leak to cause these symptoms on idle. I removed all uncessary vac lines anyway (emissions). I'll also do a compression test.

To me it looks like whatever is supposed to translate your 1g CAS signal to be correct for your 2g ecu is either not working right or needs a setting changed, something like that. The behavior of your ignition timing in the log just doesn't look right.
Are you using a 1995 ecu?

We're on Boost said:

To me it looks like whatever is supposed to translate your 1g CAS signal to be correct for your 2g ecu is either not working right or needs a setting changed, something like that. The behavior of your ignition timing in the log just doesn't look right.
Are you using a 1995 ecu?

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Yea it's a 95 ecu. I have plug wires on reverse order. Maybe I have a setting wrong in dsmlink

Well I fooled around with it a bit today. I went to rent a timing light but apparently nowhere around me rents them, they only sell them. I refused to spend $50 on something I'll use once in the next 3 years. So I just moved the CAS while it was running to see the affect it had. I moved it all the way in the (i think) CCW direction and got a stable idle out of her at 1000RPM. It breaks up a bit at 800RPM still, but it'll stay running at 1000RPM. Removing the oil cap allowed some smoke to come out of the VC which I've been lead to believe is from the copper spray-a-gasket burning off. I let it idle to operating temps then turned it off for a cool down. It still sounds like shit when it idles.

I'm still waiting on some more trans fluid, I'm like a half qt low. That should be in tomorrow.

I'm waiting on my boost leak tester back from Nick (no hurry dude) to do a boost leak test.

I'm waiting on borrowing a timing gun from my buddy Jason this week to set base timing.

Also this week I'll do a compression test to see what that turns out. Then maybe I can actually drive this beast down the street.

Attached is the latest log.

I picked up a timing gun at AutoZone for $40. Looks like a piece of turd and packaging was impossible to get open. There was also a random sticker on it that just said "Good". Hahaha. But ####ed if I was spending $99.99 on the "deluxe" turd model.

Anyway, by the time I got a chance to attempt to set base timing in the car it was dark out and I couldn't see shit even with my L.E.D. super bright flashlight. So I'll wait until tomorrow. All I did today was fill the rest of the trans up with fluid and replace a t-bolt clamp on the IC piping.

But I still don't like the way the engine sounds, it sounds like a freakin' diesel motor and I have no idea if its normal or good or bad or whatever, so I took a brief video with my camera. I realized later I had the "ground timing" option set on DSMLink at this time. It's the only reason it sounds/looks so steady. So anyone care to weigh in on this horrific noise my motor is making?

For me, setting timing in the dark is easier sometimes as the white mark on the harmonic dampener is easier to see. You should have no problem doing it in the dark.

snowborder714 said:

For me, setting timing in the dark is easier sometimes as the white mark on the harmonic dampener is easier to see. You should have no problem doing it in the dark.

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Perhaps, but I was also in the middle of figuring out how to use this thing. Ive never done this before. I may need to employ the help of someone who has done this before to make sure I do it right.

Could this happen if my cam gears are not "timed" correctly? I think I remember someone saying there should be 15 teeth from the middle of one dowel pin to the middle of the other. I think I counted 16 including both ends, but the timing lines matched up when the motor was at TDC.