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talonspeed21

15+ Year Contributor
49
0
Jan 1, 2008
Bear, Delaware
Ok here is the story in short . I purchased my car and after about 8 months of owning it the voltage regulator in the alternator went south and fried everything electrical in my car. It blew the dry cell battery fried the AFC, ECU, turbo timer, digital gauges, auto seat belts and even my brake light bulbs. Anyway after almost a year of upgrades and fixes the car is almost back to normal. I removed the AFC and upgraded to DSMLINK. I paid someone to tune my car put its still runs like shit and rich as hell. I am just looking to see if anyone who lives near me might be able to help. I currently live in Wilmington De. I have all of the tools EGT gauge, wideband O2 and laptop just no real knowledge of link.
 
hey pm me... The dsmlink forums are extremely helpful... I can help you alot as well..
 
Are you posting this up on the DSMLINK forums? Like posted above, thats the best place for help with your logs.

Second, download the newest software from ecmlink.com V3, its backwards compatible with the V2 chips.

You need some help for sure on that tune.
 
Go do a good 3rd gear pull from 2500 rpm to redline. Log MAFRaw. What boost were you running? What AFR were you at according to your WB? Thats a lot of fuel and airflow to be pulling out and still be seeing the frt O2 volts you are.

I would guess you have a huge boost leak unless you are running 30psi.

Check out jeffgst.com for calibrating your GM MAS.

Your fuel trims are way out of whack. Do you know what your base fuel pressure is? Check pg 15-17 of the DSMLink guide for fuel trim tuning.

Screw with your tune some if you are confident. You can always revert back to the old tune if you screw it up worse.
 
The car was set at 24 PSI during that set ( now at 16). I also have a 2 stage water meth system which sprays at 12 and 22 psi. Thats probably why it looks so screwy. Next week i will have my daily driver back on the road so i can finally tune and check for boost leaks. I had an AFC prior and it hit alot harder then it does now. I go back on duty tomorrow so i will not be able to post a 3rd gear pull until Sun. I just down loaded V3 of link and Wow. I think with version 3 and a little help i will be able to tune it
 
In quite a few parts of the run it doesnt look like you were fully at 100% Throttle Postition...Looks like you were just leaning on the gas gradually...Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong...

Edit you started the run at 1970rpm's up to 6542 in the first gear

You were not at 100% throttle during the entire run besides in between shifts....You should have been cruising at roughly 20-25 mph in third start log and the run til whatever rpm range you decide to stop at.
 
I'm pretty sure you're going to want to pull a lot more timing to run that much boost, but someting is wrong with your fuel. You shouldn't be that rich with 650s and those settings. What's your fuel pressure?
 
Yeah that was my mistake i wasn't at 100% i will do another one tomorrow. As far as the fuel pressure my base is set at 28 to help with the idle ( thats how the previous owner had it set), but for some reason when i go into open loop its like the car just dumps fuel. I check with the guy i got the car from and they are FIC 650s with an Areometer FPR base at 28 and its been as high as 58 during a hard pull. The car was setup by the previous owner and before the alternator went it was like a bat out of hell.
 
As far as the fuel pressure my base is set at 28 to help with the idle ( thats how the previous owner had it set)
That's your first problem. You are trying to fix problems with band-aid solutions instead of fixing the actual problem. Base 1g fuel pressure with vacuum unhooked is 38psi.

Areometer FPR base at 28 and its been as high as 58 during a hard pull. The car was setup by the previous owner and before the alternator went it was like a bat out of hell.

So either A) Your FPR is broken. or B) You were running 30psi of boost (Aeromotive is a 1:1 Rising rate FPR. Pressure rises 1psi per 1psi of boost.) I find this hard to believe this was all caused by an alternator.


Oh, and I'd stop running it wide open throttle like that til you do a boost leak test, and fix the boost leaks you will find.
 
your front o2 isn't cycling... You need to log maf raw... You need to go to edit>captured values> then add mafraw then go to edit>displayed values> move maf raw over...

YOu dont need all that other crap like intake temp and coolant temp... The intake temp is at the maf and not in the intercooler so no need to log ambient air temps...
 
I have not changed any of the settings in the car since the whole elctrical problem but i did switch from a cheap boost controller to a Hallman Manual boost controller. Tomorrow i will set the base FP at 38 and turn the boost controller all the way out.
 
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