I tried searching but found nothing for the particular question, even though I feel like I read about it somewhere.

So I am installing the manifold, and everything is going great, until I get to the fuel rail.
The stock FPR has a bend in it, well the bend shoots right into the manifold.

I have to believe someone has completed this before, and I am just curious what they did to get it to work, bend the nipple on the FPR or what? I don't want to try and bend it too far for fear it will break. Or cut it a little bit, to get past the bend (which I also don't want to do).

Any help guys, please.

Nothing, no ones gone through that?

Someone had to have found a way around this.

Can you post a picture?

That was it, but I ended up just putting a 1g fuel rail/FPR in, since it doesn't have that bend, and I had it laying around.

Now I am on to a no start problem, not sparking.

carefully bend it out of the way?

Why do you still have the stock FPR with a car that needs as much air as that manifold can deliver. The best solution would be to get an Adjustable FPR. I see you have larger injectors and I assume you have an after market pump so why the stock regulator?

You can cut the tube with no worries, just use a clamp with a nut to secure the hose tight... Oh, and make sure to sand down any sharp edges after you do to not cut the hose when you put it back together.

.. I too wonder why you still have the stock one though.

Did you guys miss that he put a 1g rail and FPR on it?

I saw that but he still should be using something better than a 1G stock regulator.

Why? Plenty of people are making good power (and by good, I mean over 400) off the stock FPR, I think its a pretty common mis-conception that you need one.

I put the SMIM on, because I have a FPB28, take a peek at my profile.
The right questions get the right answers, that being said, I got the manifold for a pretty fair price, as much as I don't need it right now (I stress don't, because it would help either way, just not necessarily needed as of right now), to help the T28 up top, because it tends to fall off pretty bad towards redline.

Now seeing as how the T28 build boost if you blow into the intake, I could sacrifice 200 rpm of spool, to have power up top, which I think would be a pretty consistant power band. (since the T28 makes pretty good power around 35-5000)

Now THAT being said, I think with proper tuning you don't really need an AFPR till you're into 044 pumps and whatnot, given you're stock one is working like it should.

Now if you have some suggestions as to my newly found 'no spark' problem, they would be had.

Thanks.

fuzzydoodle said:

Why? Plenty of people are making good power (and by good, I mean over 400) off the stock FPR, I think its a pretty common mis-conception that you need one.

Click to expand...

Amen to that.

fuzzydoodle said:

Why? Plenty of people are making good power (and by good, I mean over 400) off the stock FPR, I think its a pretty common mis-conception that you need one.

I put the SMIM on, because I have a FPB28, take a peek at my profile.
The right questions get the right answers, that being said, I got the manifold for a pretty fair price, as much as I don't need it right now (I stress don't, because it would help either way, just not necessarily needed as of right now), to help the T28 up top, because it tends to fall off pretty bad towards redline.

Now seeing as how the T28 build boost if you blow into the intake, I could sacrifice 200 rpm of spool, to have power up top, which I think would be a pretty consistant power band. (since the T28 makes pretty good power around 35-5000)

Now THAT being said, I think with proper tuning you don't really need an AFPR till you're into 044 pumps and whatnot, given you're stock one is working like it should.

Now if you have some suggestions as to my newly found 'no spark' problem, they would be had.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

I agree with everything you said here. But, remember that the stock base fuel pressure on a 1g Turbo FPR is 37psi and not the 43.5psi that the 2g runs. I would try to find one off an 1g Auto @ 43.5psi or a 1g N/T @ 47psi.

It's probably not related to your no start issue but it's going to be something you'll have to tune around.

Also, according to your profile, you're still on the stock pump?

Perfect example CanadianTSi!! Ok, so everyone up there talking about how I should get a AFPR, but probably not much over 300 hp, look here, we have 398 whp (which btw is probably more because this was on a mustang) probably on a stock FPR. That's just something the noobs run out to get because they see everyone else got one, and don't do any reading on what they ACTUALLY need.

->PrOjEcTGS<- said:

I agree with everything you said here. But, remember that the stock base fuel pressure on a 1g Turbo FPR is 37psi and not the 43.5psi that the 2g runs. I would try to find one off an 1g Auto @ 43.5psi or a 1g N/T @ 47psi.

It's probably not related to your no start issue but it's going to be something you'll have to tune around.

Also, according to your profile, you're still on the stock pump?

Click to expand...

I actually am running link, so I already had adjusted the fuel pressure to the 1g's 36.3 base pressure. But thank you for pointing that out, that is very useful information for future searches.

Sorry I need to update that, I was going to do it earlier, because talking about my profile reminded me.

I am on an EVO 9 Fuel Pump.

My1g: I am going to pull the transistor off and test it, it's already on my list.

I have not had much time to mess with it, juggling kid duty, but I am just stumped on what could have gone wrong, I mean, I have some mechanical ability so, changing an intake manifold is not rocket science, and I didn't really change much except where the ignition system is mounted.

So I am just trying to think of what it could be, I did test the coils, and their within the 11.3-15.6 or whatever the stock 2g resistance is, but that's as far as I have gotten.
I just don't know how tucking the wires underneath could have really done anything catastrophic...

To each their own with the FPR I agree that it isn't needed for a lot of situations but from personal experience I had my re-wired 190 running with the stock and I was tuned around the fact that the pump was being overrun. When I put on my fuel lab regulator my car needed a complete re-tune because with the pressure actually being held it ran lean as hell.

My preference is to actually have the pressure where I set it and not running up to some higher number that I have no way of knowing what it is because the regulator is being overrun.

Plus now that it is adjustable I have the option to crank it up a few psi to get a little more out of my injectors if needed. But since I'm only on a B16G and I have 720s 43.5 psi is just fine.

I just figured with so many nice parts on your car and that manifold you are headed for bigger things.

With only 550's I'd rather have the Higher BFP then the 1g 5spd FPR Or a AFPR to dial it in to where it's suppose to be or where you want it. also its a plus knowing what your FP Really is . ...

I can plug a gauge in line anytime I need to find out, its not that big of a deal. And many 1g's run on 550's with their stock regulator and are just fine, again, this is all given you're FPR is doing it job.

And you're regulator was probably bad, I have not really heard of a 190 over running a stock regulator.
But that's just me.

I am over being worried about the FPR, I am more concerned about the spark issue now, the fpr is fine, given it works properly.

Well, I got fancy and just took the coil pack and ignition module from the 94 gsx sitting next to mine, and tried those. Both with no luck, as someone mentioned to me, I did remove my A/C, and no the coils are not plugged into that plug.
I made sure of that, to grab the plug from the middle of the manifold cause I knew that was where the ignition was sitting on the stock mani.

And just to be funny, I tried switching those too, even though I had no doubt in my mind it was in the right plug, as you can guess, no luck.

I am going to really double check that there is no spark tomorrow (I pulled the #1 plug and wire and let it sit, while cranking the engine and watching the spark), just to make sure I didn't mess up on that part, I don't think I did, but this is bothering me.

I have no clue what it could be, after that. because I didn't undo any of the loom to move any wires around, so I would not think that one broke, because it was running fine before the install.

I don't see how it could be a CAS or CS, because I didn't remove those, or even touch anywhere near them, the coolant temp I don't know, if just for some strange reason decided to go bad, but I was messing with the loom on that side, to tuck it underneath.

Wtf?!

Alright, so I fished the loom from underneath, and pulled the loom looking for obvious breaks, with no luck.

And so just for fun, I hooked everything up, EXACTLY like it was, except for, on top of the mani, and didn't connect that little metal resistor looking thing, and had the ign module hanging instead of bolted up.

And presto, fires right up!?

Wth? Classic dsm, tempermental bi***.

So I am going to try, just slowly bolting one thing back on until it doesn't start again, and we'll see what's up.

So I put everything back up underneath, hooked up the same exact way and bam, fires right up again.


But I went and drove it for a little while, drives great as always, the manifold seems to help up top, which was my goal, I don't notice boost falling off up there too much now, and it seems to really hold the boost inbetween shifts, quick shifting feels like I am launching, the front end never goes down, I like.

But I put the Magnus spacer in there, my roommate has one on his stock 94 gsx intake manifold, and you can grab it after a pull, where as you cant touch the valve cover.
He also still runs the FIAV and all coolant lines going to it.

So after I drove mine around a bit, I pulled it back in the garage, and popped the hood, the mani is as hot as the VC? ?

One thing after another, so my conclusion is, WTH? But whatever, stupid piece of plastic anyway.

I know people are running these and dropping degrees off the intake....